2019 Yukon Denali 6.2L L86 Oil/Filter Recommendation

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I have a brand new Yukon Denali, with roughly 2000 miles. It is actually a 2019 model year, manufactured in March of 2019, so the truck sat on the dealer's lot for roughly a year prior to being sold to me. Due to that, I want to get the first oil change done early. My gut says the oil in there is the factory fill, and having sat and been idled for a year can't be good for it. Would you all agree, or am I being overly cautious? The owner's manual recommends 0W-20 Dexos1.2 approved oil. Given I am located in Iowa, I would like to keep that 0 weight for winter driving. I tow a 1200 lbs trailer occasionally, but that is definitely not hard for the truck, so I am not worried about that use. I would typically go straight to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, but it seems that it is not Dexos1.2 approved. Pennzoil Platinum is however. Should I use Platinum, or is there a better oil out there? This is a long term car, so after this oil change i plan to follow 5k intervals, regardless of the oil life indicator. Should I stick with a GM OEM filter, or is there a better brand that others have found? Thanks!
 
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If you're a COSTCO person, they have a low price Dexos spec oil, 22 bucks for 10 quarts that's good stuff. But Shell Gas Truck is more manly, and will make yours feel like it's got the old 8.1 liter V8! Or you could get some 10 buck a quart boutique brand and feel like a mideast potentate. The UPS package vans in my area have switched from Cummins 6BT diesels to GM 6 liter gas, I'd be interested in knowing what they run.
 
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I would change it out early. My 2016 Suburban 5.3 L83, I changed at 1000 miles (3 months since build) and had very fine visible metallic particles in the oil. You can certainly use any 0w-20 Dexos1gen2 that you like. I ran Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE for the first 2 changes, then went to Amsoil 0w-20 Sig. Series and will stick to this. I am running the revised Fram XG10575 with 22 psi bypass (been out for over a year now) so all stock should be 22 psi. You can tell by looking at the bypass valve. White 22 psi, black is the old one 12 psi). Whichever filter make sure it has the 22 psi bypass. Wix/Napa Gold is a reputable and fairly priced filter with the correct bypass. Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 would be great as it is Dex1gen2. However, as you mentioned the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in NOT Dex1gen2. If I was buying off the shelf and wanted to stay frugal, in spec. and great protection I believe I would go with QSUD 0w-20. FWIW, my engine was quiet and smooth on M1 0w-20 as well as Amsoil SS 0w-20 with no oil consumption. The ACDelco PF63e is an ecore design that has been fine, just not one of my top picks. By the way the Amsoil SS 0w-20 isn't a Dex1gen2 license oil, but I still like it!
 
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For me realistically I should run whatever is cheapest that meets spec. because it will rust out before it wears out.
 
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Shell gas truck is good stuff. I am running costco oil now in my Avalanche 5.3 with 183k Just put in supertec HM in my Tahoe 5.3, just hit 200k I'm running fram ultra in both Ran Mobil 1 mostly, valvoline after it started to leak, also ran penzoil .castrol, Quaker state once or twice. No real difference in any
 

CT8

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Any oil that meets the specs in the owners manual from a major oil company would be fine. Fram filters would work.
 
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Do <span style="font-weight: bold">EXACTLY</span> what your owners manual says, No need (wasteful) to change factory fill early. <span style="font-weight: bold">ANY</span> D1/g2 will work. And the factory filter is fine. Sheesh!
 
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Is Meijer a thing in Iowa, they've got their Dexos approved 0w20 on sale right now for buy one 5qt jug get one 50% off which makes it $25 and some change for 10qts if you don't have a Costco membership should be virtually the same oil both are pacakged by Warren Distribution, Also if Menards is around where you're at they might have FVP in individual quarts for $3 which in at least what I've seen is packaged by Warren as well.
 

4WD

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The PP and OEM filter would be good as you had in mind … they don't really mince words in the GM owners manual over Dexos
 
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First off, thank you for buying one of our Arlington Texas built SUV's! My choice would be Mobil 1 0W/20 and any decent filter of your choice but PP is a fine choice as well! Run that oil for 5000 miles then dump...Keep it simple.
 

shimps1

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I can't find Mobil 1 0W-20 except for their AFE product, is that the one you guys are referencing?
 
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Originally Posted by shimps1
I can't find Mobil 1 0W-20 except for their AFE product, is that the one you guys are referencing?
You can order extended performance from Walmart, if you order 2 jugs you can get free shipping, also right now Mobil1 has a rebate you can get $24 back for 2 jugs of Extended Performance or $20 back for 2 jugs of AFE, which makes them the same price after rebate, I'd go with extended performance, AFE is mostly GTL, EP is mostly PAO.
 
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In response to one of the above posts - I was a fleet supervisor for UPS early 90's. Everything gas or diesel got bulk 15w40. May be different now. I personally wouldn't run Xw20 in anything. Yep I'm a dinosaur and not a CAFE fan. 5w30 is as low as I'd go - 5w40 or 15w40, even 15/20w50 in severe use or old non-roller engines (which is not what OP is asking about).
 
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Originally Posted by 379KITTY
In response to one of the above posts - I was a fleet supervisor for UPS early 90's. Everything gas or diesel got bulk 15w40. May be different now. I personally wouldn't run Xw20 in anything. Yep I'm a dinosaur and not a CAFE fan. 5w30 is as low as I'd go - 5w40 or 15w40, even 15/20w50 in severe use or old non-roller engines (which is not what OP is asking about).
The car's brand new and thus under warranty, the manual calls for only Dexos approved 0w20 and nothing else, that's the only thing that should be put in the engine during the warranty period. I don't see the point of throwing a 15w40 or 20w50 into a modern car, the engine will last a very long time on 0w20 or even 5w30 after the warranty is over and depending on the use case 15w or 20w oil might be a terrible thing to put in a car if it's primarily used for short trips because it'll never get filtered because the bypass will always be open.
 

CKN

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Originally Posted by blufeb95
Originally Posted by 379KITTY
In response to one of the above posts - I was a fleet supervisor for UPS early 90's. Everything gas or diesel got bulk 15w40. May be different now. I personally wouldn't run Xw20 in anything. Yep I'm a dinosaur and not a CAFE fan. 5w30 is as low as I'd go - 5w40 or 15w40, even 15/20w50 in severe use or old non-roller engines (which is not what OP is asking about).
The car's brand new and thus under warranty, the manual calls for only Dexos approved 0w20 and nothing else, that's the only thing that should be put in the engine during the warranty period. I don't see the point of throwing a 15w40 or 20w50 into a modern car, the engine will last a very long time on 0w20 or even 5w30 after the warranty is over and depending on the use case 15w or 20w oil might be a terrible thing to put in a car if it's primarily used for short trips because it'll never get filtered because the bypass will always be open.
Yet again another BITOG member who knows more than the engineers that spec'ed that oil. OP-follow the manual -we know that vehicle wasn't cheap-why mess with the warranty.............................
 
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I would definately do that early change, and myself I would probably skip the filter. I have several newer vehicles that we are doing a every other filter change on now because they are the top load cartridge type and never seem to have anything on then even after 10K miles, the oil gets RR on a 4-6month cycle depends on the car, always synthetic. I personally love using the RGT in our GM truck and the oil life monitor system seems to go to around 10% right at 5k miles/6 months. https://www.amazon.com/Rotella-Truck-5W-20-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B07MLXF2CF?th=1 There's also the $10/jug rebate with that, would seem if you can DIY its gonna cost you $20 for peace of mind.
 

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New gen SB V8's have ECM controlled timing and AFM systems designed around 0w20. Clinebarger has noted the hardware side is the same as the 5w30 engines … I'd never go above that. To me … GM made many changes in the entire lubricant system … don't fear 0w20 in mine. These stiff 6 bolt blocks keep EHL doing its thing on 0w20 … they now have piston jets and oil coolers … grille shutters … all kinds of things … On my 5.3L engines … the variable oil pumps can be doing 20 psi at a red light … 75 psi if I punch it. To me (what BrocL used to mention) … you can always step up a grade above FF when they reach higher mileage …
 
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