2019 Yamaha Tracer 900 GT - UOA - 2700 km

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Dec 5, 2014
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Location
Toronto
Hello,

Just wanted to share UOA result. Mostly ridden on highways, and backroads, with minimal stop-and-go traffic.

Currently running on Liqui Moly 4T 5w40 HC Street.

Bought the bike brand new with 1 km on it.
First oil change was at 1224 km at the dealer (Yamalube 10w40 - OEM filter)
Second was at 3519 km (Yamalube 10w40 - OEM filter)
This is the 3rd oil change at 6259 km, which was on Oct 2021. Liqui Moly 5w40 and Fram XG 7317. So far the total mileage is around 8900 km.

I'm not happy with the iron levels, oil weight is also out-of-spec. It looks like it's w30 at 100c.

Will switch back to Yamalube 10w40 and OEM Yamaha filter after using other Liqui Moly 10w40 jug that I bought it on sale. I changed the oil frequently, but will be switching to 5k km OCI going forward.

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So my question is: I didn't drain the oil. Should I keep the oil and change it when the bike hits 10k km (ride another 1200 or so km)? Or should I change it now?

Thanks.
 
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So this last interval was at about 2700 km on the oil when you sampled it? There are about 9,000km (5,400 miles) on it total since it was new, correct?

If that's the case I think it's continuing to shed some iron as it breaks in.
 
So this last interval was at about 2700 km on the oil when you sampled it? There are about 9,000km (5,400 miles) on it total since it was new, correct?

If that's the case I think it's continuing to shed some iron as it breaks in.
Correct, using the same oil since 6259 km

This is what they (oil analysis guys) said:

"We do not have a lot of data on Yamaha engine oil samples so it is a little hard to compare. Some engines/various compartments will have a surprisingly high wear metal allowance. On highway trucks will very often have between 60 and 100 ppm of iron for example. Break-in wear can also last up until 3 oil changes and you may be a the tail end of it in this case. While the 50 ppm of iron does appear slightly elevated, I would not be worried in this case since chromium is at 0 ppm. I don’t think there is abnormal wear occurring and would expect iron to go slightly down in the next samplings/oil changes."
 
Zero nickel and zero chromium would suggest a ceramic type cylinder coating versus Nikasil.

Meaning the piston rings are doing great and the iron isn't coming from your cylinder walls.

More than likely the valve train and gears in the transmission still getting used to each other.

Do you have a previous analysis to compare with?
 
Zero nickel and zero chromium would suggest a ceramic type cylinder coating versus Nikasil.

Meaning the piston rings are doing great and the iron isn't coming from your cylinder walls.

More than likely the valve train and gears in the transmission still getting used to each other.

Do you have a previous analysis to compare with?

It's the first time, no previous analysis. But I'll monitor the next OCIs to ensure everything is okay.
 
You likely won't have any real problems, just notchy shifting in short order. Rotella T6 5w40 is notorious for shearing to a thinner weight quickly..
I used Rotella T6 5-40 in a Yamaha Super Tenere on a long distance trip Artic trip and did an oil only change 4000 miles in and went 10,000 on that oil. I rode overladen, hard, fast, and dirty, 2500 of it caked in calcium chloride laden mud, and I noticed no degradation in shifting.
 
Switch back to a synthetic 10w40 motorcycle oil and continue with your 5k km intervals.

Engine/trans still breaking in and nothing to worry about.

No need for Yamaha oil or filters. Around here, Castrol/Mobil/Supertech/Shell/Valvoline have 10w40 motorcycle oils, in synth, blended synth, and conventional choices. I also haven't been impressed by any of the motorcycle specific filters and would stick with a name brand 7317 equivalent.

Get a magnetic drain plug.
 
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