Originally Posted by skyactiv
My wifes Audi and my GTI have a TDGI engine and never have this issue. The used Elantra Sport I bought
has a 1.6 TDGI engine and I'm noticing the oil level rising.
I think it happens because of engine tuning. Good luck selling a Sante Fe, Elantra Sport, Accord LX, Civic....... with such an engine and telling the owner it needs premium gas.
The Audi and GTI call for premium gas, the Sante Fe, Accord..... do not. I feel the vehicle manufacture is required to have a compromised engine tune on any TDGI vehicle
when they spec 87 octane. It's done to keep the engine alive and not shelling out money for warranty work. The knock sensor isn't always the savior of such an engine so
the manufacture tunes it to squirt more fuel on the 87 octane tune to keep the combustion chamber cooler, preventing denotation.
Vehicle manufactures want to get rid of 87 octane gasoline.
https://www.autonews.com/article/20...o-industry-lobbies-for-95-as-new-regular
I 100% agree with you on what Hyundai does. Their tune is horrible. I own a 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T lowered with Eibach's (1 inch lowered) and I have converted the suspension to 2019 Elantra GT N-Line (1 inch more= lowered shorter struts) struts and shocks since Koni and Bilstein were no help. So I am 2 inches lower then a stock Kona AWD 1.6T. I have sub-frame collars, front bushings are Whiteline and rears multi-link will be converted over to Whitelline bushings this winter.
The front end is now 1 inch lower then in this picture.
https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=5430&pictureid=52392
I digress.
Hyundai pulls timing back to zero EVERY shift with a DCT on their motors. I want a tune so bad, but I want a warranty for the motor, DCT and the rear diff AWD system, so it will remain stock. It is a shame that it affects warranty because Hyundai's with a good tune drive 100% better.
I had an LSPI event with the FF and 87 octane early on. The whole car seemed like it jumped off the ground 5 feet. I only run 89 as a minimum mostly in Minnesota winters and summer I use 93 octane since I am on boost more then most. Any GDI/GDI turbo Hyundai I suggest to use 89 octane as it's minimum. How they think a 9:5 to 10:1 compression ratio GDI turbo motor with full 17 lbs boost at 1,400 rpm is going to function correctly with 87 octane is nuts. Hence the horrible horrible tune. Hyundai floods the engine with fuel for cooling and to make the environment a non explosive place to be.
When I bought my Kona, I knew it was going to be a fuel dumper, but did not think it was going to be this bad. When I bought the car I also bought a 10 pack of Polaris Labs Oil analysis tests. I was well over 5% every time since I live in Minnesota and my work is 8 miles away. I also short trim when every I drive the car. 97% of the time. Driving it in sport mode keeps it MORE out of the LSPI fuel dump span of 1,400 to 3,000 rpms I feel Hyundai just dumps fuel. This helped in less fuel in winters. Your mileage will go down but it is just the price you pay owning a GDI or GDI turbo. After all my testing and with some back and forth with a oil analysis guy who use to race Hyundai's at Polaris Labs, and a poster here we all know that has a Honda 1.5T, you just change out your oil at 3,000 miles and don't worry about it. It is that simple. I have not seen any wear metal issues in all my testing being over 5% and nether has the Honda guy here ( parshisa ).
Also to the OP , if you have an AWD dump the rear diff/AWD oil at 5,000, no matter what the Hyundai service manager or order writ tells you. You have .6 qt/ .5 liter of oil ( a thimble of oil) in your AWD system and a load of clutch packs that need breaking in. I dumped all my oils at 2,000 miles and put in all Redline drive line oils, (diff, DCT, and transfer case)and the rear diff was very dirty for 2,000 miles.The transfer case was 100% clean so no need to change that till 20,000 I think. I was very surprised, so dark, so early, but I saw this with my wife's Rav4 that rear diff oil was black at 22,000 miles. I will add a story a Kona form member posted. He took my advice (at the time it was an 8,000 mile drain recommendation) and asked Hyundai drain his rear diff at 5,000 miles , they said it did not need it, and said it was a waste of money. The Kona guy said no just do it, I want it done on a suggestion on the Kona forms. He was reluctant, but agreed. The Kona guy came back and the service manager came to him and commented the mechanic came to him to say how dirty the oil was and was kind of floored since no one ever drains that early, so they never have seen this. The service manager is going to bring this up in his district meetings since Hyundai has a 100,000 mile drive train warranty and feels it is a great idea to change it out early to reduce rear diff/AWD issues late in life. A rear diff/AWD is a $3,500 to $4,000 repair. As in a Rav4 and most manufactures you only have a 60,000 mile drive line warranty. So then it's your $4,000. Not like it will go out early but for me doing it myself, it cost $20 of Redline to change out the rear diff, $10 for regular oil.
