2019 Mini Countryman JCW All4 with Pennzoil Euro LX 0w30 at 5000 miles

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Calcium as a bit higher and Magnesium a bit lower than oils that are supposed to be preventing LSPI, and this oil doesn't have the BMW approval for my engine, but, it seems to be doing a fine job.
 

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Wow someone with a john cooper works awd mini, but a practical countryman. They're quite pricey for the small size. But the oil did a fine job. And what exact spec does it require. I though it was their ll-14 or 17 nowadays which is a 20 grade or no? But at any rate I'm pretty sure other markets spec ll-01 or ll-04 for the same engine. the FE oils are more for fuel economy.
 
And what exact spec does it require. I though it was their ll-14 or 17 nowadays which is a 20 grade or no? But at any rate I'm pretty sure other markets spec ll-01 or ll-04 for the same engine. the FE oils are more for fuel economy.
The spec is 17FE+, Ow20. The owner's manual also lists an alternate of 0w30. This Euro LX doesn't have the BMW LL04, which I wish it did. Instead, it has Porsche C30, VW 504/507, Mercedes 229.31/229.51/229.52. It's an API SN (wish it was an SN+ or SP for LSPI) and ACEA C2/C3, so, I'm betting it's robust enough to survive 5000 mile OCI's and as long as I have no LSPI events (I don't hear/feel any rumbling at low RPMs), and change it out at 5000 miles, it should provide fine service. If not, I'll be hit with an expensive rebuild!
 
The spec is 17FE+, Ow20. The owner's manual also lists an alternate of 0w30. This Euro LX doesn't have the BMW LL04, which I wish it did. Instead, it has Porsche C30, VW 504/507, Mercedes 229.31/229.51/229.52. It's an API SN (wish it was an SN+ or SP for LSPI) and ACEA C2/C3, so, I'm betting it's robust enough to survive 5000 mile OCI's and as long as I have no LSPI events (I don't hear/feel any rumbling at low RPMs), and change it out at 5000 miles, it should provide fine service. If not, I'll be hit with an expensive rebuild!
I think you'll be just fine. Pennzoil platinum euro L has the ll-04 spec and can be had at any Walmart for $25 shipped and so can PP euro 0w-40 which doesn't have any bmw spec but looks pretty lspi friendly judging from the voa. But i doubt even the latest revision of ll-01 would be bad either.

PP euro 0w-40 voa https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pennzoil-platinum-euro-0w-40-voa.348615/
PP euro L 5w-30 https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pennzoil-platinum-euro-l-5w30-voa.276200/
 
Yeah, that Pennzoil Euro 0w40 has the lower Calcium higher Magnesium I'd expect to help prevent LSPI. I try to decrease LSPI by running the RPMs in a higher range if the engine is good and warmed up. The higher the engine temp and lower the RPM, the more likely for LSPI events. Since I can't do anything about the temp if I'm driving it spiritedly, I just keep the RPMs up. Never had any indication I have any LSPI. I don't really know how much Calcium is "too much" to be helping to prevent LSPI, but, the Oil Analysis results I've seen on SP oils are lower in Calcium than this Euro LX Ow30, which makes me think lower Calcium/higher Magnesium would be even better.
 
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Looks very good. Lack of magnesium is partly offset by the huge dose of boron, starts off around 400 ppm IIRC.

It's a modern formula I'd not have any LSPI concerns using it over any other oil.
 
Looks very good. Lack of magnesium is partly offset by the huge dose of boron, starts off around 400 ppm IIRC.

It's a modern formula I'd not have any LSPI concerns using it over any other oil.
Thanks, only thing about LSPI that I keep seeing is GENERALLY oils that help combat LSPI have "less Calcium and more Magnesium" than others. That's not enough info to me to be 100% certain it fights LSPI...but, I think one or more of the Mercedes specs addresses LSPI, so, it's probably fine! Sure would be nice to see SN+ or SP on the bottle, but, it doesn't. Nevertheless, I picked up three cases of 6 bottles each at a great deal. Have two more cases remaining. I'll just keep using them then see what's available when it's time to pick something else.
 
The spec is 17FE+, Ow20. The owner's manual also lists an alternate of 0w30. This Euro LX doesn't have the BMW LL04, which I wish it did. Instead, it has Porsche C30, VW 504/507, Mercedes 229.31/229.51/229.52. It's an API SN (wish it was an SN+ or SP for LSPI) and ACEA C2/C3, so, I'm betting it's robust enough to survive 5000 mile OCI's and as long as I have no LSPI events (I don't hear/feel any rumbling at low RPMs), and change it out at 5000 miles, it should provide fine service. If not, I'll be hit with an expensive rebuild!

I agree with that. This oil did an excellent job just like it was a true LL-04. I did use
it in the past.


Looks very good. Lack of magnesium is partly offset by the huge dose of boron, starts off around 400 ppm IIRC.

It's a modern formula I'd not have any LSPI concerns using it over any other oil.

True, no reason to overthink LSPI. I also agree on boron. This oil is known to be a boron
bomb. Boron uses to start at 400+ ppm, and since it doesn't evaporate I'd say it has to sit
somewhere else now where it likely helped to reduce Fe, Al, Cr and Cu wear.
.
 
I agree with that. This oil did an excellent job just like it was a true LL-04. I did use
it in the past.

True, no reason to overthink LSPI. I also agree on boron. This oil is known to be a boron
bomb. Boron uses to start at 400+ ppm, and since it doesn't evaporate I'd say it has to sit
somewhere else now where it likely helped to reduce Fe, Al, Cr and Cu wear.
.
I appreciate the comments! In combination with the UOA, I'm becoming less concerned about the lack of LL-04 rating, as well as thoughts on LSPI. (Who doesn't like a bit of confirmational bias?)
 
Maybe. I am just saying considering tough BMW requirements on oxidation, to check it. I highly doubt it will be an issue.
Thanks for pointing out TAN vs TBN. I wasn't paying close enough attention.

Another reason I did this UOA was to check for coolant contamination. I noticed the reservoir level was a bit low a few weeks ago, and decided to bring it up to the Max Cool Level. It took more than I thought it would, and since I couldn't find any external leaks, thought a UOA would be a good idea. It was probably a bit low when I bought the car, but, I must have never checked the reservoir when it was fully cooled...since adding coolant, no loss detected. No contamination noted. Happy all around.
 
Thanks for pointing out TAN vs TBN. I wasn't paying close enough attention.

Another reason I did this UOA was to check for coolant contamination. I noticed the reservoir level was a bit low a few weeks ago, and decided to bring it up to the Max Cool Level. It took more than I thought it would, and since I couldn't find any external leaks, thought a UOA would be a good idea. It was probably a bit low when I bought the car, but, I must have never checked the reservoir when it was fully cooled...since adding coolant, no loss detected. No contamination noted. Happy all around.
Those B46/48 have some issues around losing coolant.
 
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