jagdriver727
Site Donor 2021
Thanks for this, good to know.
2019 F-150 parked since new
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jagdriver727
Site Donor 2021
I got the title and tag handled today and took a trip to Plant City. The truck performed beautifully. The ride was bumpy at first from flat spots in the tires, I aired them up to the max cold PSI on the sidewall (not sure if that made any difference). They are Michelin LTX M/S2 dated 0119. After a few minutes on the highway the ride smoothed out.
Upon returning home I changed the oil and filter (RGT 5W-30 & Champ PH500) and lowered the tires to 36 PSI warm. I will set them to the 34 PSI cold listed on the door placard early in the morning.
188 miles and 13 hours.
The oil drain plug was a new one to me. It was a twist lock thing with a very tight sealing o-ring.
Upon returning home I changed the oil and filter (RGT 5W-30 & Champ PH500) and lowered the tires to 36 PSI warm. I will set them to the 34 PSI cold listed on the door placard early in the morning.
188 miles and 13 hours.
The oil drain plug was a new one to me. It was a twist lock thing with a very tight sealing o-ring.
Really nice looking truck. We’ve really enjoyed our 2018. Just spent 3.5 hours in it today and it’s so smooth at idle you can’t tell it’s running. We’ve had some hiccups with the 10spd but its been a little better since a reset and relearn. Only issue weve had with ours in recirc valve servo replacement under warranty, and it’s developing a slow coolant leak, probably an o-ring on one of the turbos. Fun to drive, quiet interior, tows like a boss, and gets impressive gas mileage when gently driven.
A few things from a former 2018 F150 5.0 owner...
Get the ECU/TCU flashed. It actually helps a lot with the oil consumption issues these 2nd Gen 5.0 have. There is a TSB, not sure the number.
Get extra oil drain plugs and have them handy, those tabs break easily.
If you have the orange coolant, change it out to the newer yellow. The orange can clog the heater core over time, especially in cold climates. I think Jan 2019 and newer builds got the yellow from factory.
These engines have about a 4k mile break in period, after which mpg improves.
Bilstein shocks in the rear help with bed hop a lot. Best $150 you can spend on these trucks. Takes 45 min in driveway to change, don't need to jack it up.
LED headlights are second best $150 you can spend. Take about an hour to change, need to take tires off. The OEM low beams are awful.
F150forum.com is a good place to get info.
Get the ECU/TCU flashed. It actually helps a lot with the oil consumption issues these 2nd Gen 5.0 have. There is a TSB, not sure the number.
Get extra oil drain plugs and have them handy, those tabs break easily.
If you have the orange coolant, change it out to the newer yellow. The orange can clog the heater core over time, especially in cold climates. I think Jan 2019 and newer builds got the yellow from factory.
These engines have about a 4k mile break in period, after which mpg improves.
Bilstein shocks in the rear help with bed hop a lot. Best $150 you can spend on these trucks. Takes 45 min in driveway to change, don't need to jack it up.
LED headlights are second best $150 you can spend. Take about an hour to change, need to take tires off. The OEM low beams are awful.
F150forum.com is a good place to get info.
Those yellow oil drain plugs are not the greatest. I'd consider a Ronin factory replacement plug.
https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory
https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory
This. In fact, this would be the oil I’d use to get the break in materials out. Change at 1000 or so.
Enjoy your new truck. I’m pretty happy with mine except for the warped dashboard and glove box. I’ll be getting that fixed under warranty.
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Two years??
If I could I would change that oil first, like without even starting the thing. Sump that oil and filter, pour that new oil up into that one valve cover...Hope at least one side of the valve train has some oil and THEN start it and drive it very gently. Take it easy for a week or so, then dump the diffs, transfer case and tranny. Change everything out and feel great.
Or, just drive it home, change the oil and everything else and still feel great. Haha. The only fluid I wouldn’t worry about is coolant.
If I could I would change that oil first, like without even starting the thing. Sump that oil and filter, pour that new oil up into that one valve cover...Hope at least one side of the valve train has some oil and THEN start it and drive it very gently. Take it easy for a week or so, then dump the diffs, transfer case and tranny. Change everything out and feel great.
Or, just drive it home, change the oil and everything else and still feel great. Haha. The only fluid I wouldn’t worry about is coolant.
You’ve over analyzed this one big time .
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It’s a good thing I didn’t mention what I initially planned on suggesting...removing the heads and gently carrying them home in your pockets. Then carefully applying oil to them every two hours throughout the night.
You may have been kidding around in your other post, I can’t tell. If you were then jokes on me lol.
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No I actually wasn’t, but you’re right, I was overthinking it.
I would not mess with the brake fluid. First it is only 2 yrs old. 2nd you may need scan tools to mess with it.
She's a good looker!
"Ethyl" was a common term in my youth."High test". There's a term that my Dad uses...
Nice truck and great find.
No way would I have changed the oil and filter with that low miles even if two years old.
No way would I have changed the oil and filter with that low miles even if two years old.
jagdriver727
Site Donor 2021
Shoot, I have fifteen grand worth of scan tools in the trunk of my car. But I did not end up doing anything with the brake fluid, it was fine.
You're pay checks must be much larger than mine?
I bought a car this past fall for a family member to use that had sat for quite a period, though it was older (2004). Only two issues from sitting I had:
1) Vibration (tire flat spots) went away after a vigorous shake-down drive.
2) Battery sulfation. If you have a de-sulfator, give it a few cycles.
Personally I would drain/fill the brake reservoir; I do that annually on each car so I never have to bleed them. It still picks up moisture just sitting, especially in Fla. just like here.
1) Vibration (tire flat spots) went away after a vigorous shake-down drive.
2) Battery sulfation. If you have a de-sulfator, give it a few cycles.
Personally I would drain/fill the brake reservoir; I do that annually on each car so I never have to bleed them. It still picks up moisture just sitting, especially in Fla. just like here.
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