2018 Yamaha XMAX 300cc Scooter

[ritler59]

My Yamaha Scooter calls for 85W-GL-3 or 10W-30 SAE Motor Oil, I cannot find 85W GL-3 Oil Anywhere, can;
1. 85W-90 GL-4 be used in its place?
2. Why does the manual lists 10W-30 SAE as an alternative?
I live in the North East where temps can range between -10 and 100+ what range oil should I use 10W-30 or 10W-40?
My bike is fairly new and has low mileage (500) so is still in the breaking period, when I change the Oil should I stay with Mineral, Semi-Synthetic or FULL Synthetic?
Please advise,

 

[Kawiguy454]

You dont specify where but sounds like oil is for the shaft drive? I would put M1 full synth 75-90 in and not worry. I use that in my Concours 1400 shaft drive for ~43k no problemo. If its for engine then Shell T6 15-40 is cheap at wallyworld. I mean you're not gonna drive it in -10 winter are you? So Heat protection is paramount.

 

[Bonz]

^^^ Good advice^^^ But good on you iffin’ you are gonna ride at -10 deg F.

My thought is the user is able to choose between the 85w gear oil or 10w30 engine oil for the final drive, and is also asking what oil to put in the crankcase at the next oil change after the break-in period.

I would choose a gear oil myself, but maybe there are owners that have had theirs long enough to form opinions based on experience, I would gather there is an XMAX forum.

To the OP, I believe the oil change interval Yamaha calls for once break-in is over with is 3,000 miles. Being a liquid cooled engine, and not sharing the oil with the transmission, I would go with any established brand of 10w40 or 15w-40 of your choosing whether mineral, semi sun or full syn. A 3000 mile OCI won’t bring into play the benefit of going with a longer oci that a synthetic oil provides, IMO.

 

[ritler59]

^^^ Good advice^^^ But good on you iffin’ you are gonna ride at -10 deg F.

My thought is the user is able to choose between the 85w gear oil or 10w30 engine oil for the final drive, and is also asking what oil to put in the crankcase at the next oil change after the break-in period.

I would choose a gear oil myself, but maybe there are owners that have had theirs long enough to form opinions based on experience, I would gather there is an XMAX forum.

To the OP, I believe the oil change interval Yamaha calls for once break-in is over with is 3,000 miles. Being a liquid cooled engine, and not sharing the oil with the transmission, I would go with any established brand of 10w40 or 15w-40 of your choosing whether mineral, semi sun or full syn. A 3000 mile OCI won’t bring into play the benefit of going with a longer oci that a synthetic oil provides, IMO.

No way Im riding at -10 degrees LOL, I was just trying to establish the temperature range in my area. Why would a transmission work on 85w GL-3 or 10W-30 SAE? It clearly states so in the owner's manual and the shop manual. Who sells 85W GL-3 Oil anyway? Im assuming that GL4-5 will work just fine (not sure) could it be that GL-3 is only available overseas? To be honest I like Yamalube because they do R&D with Motul which is a worldwide renown brand. My first service is at 600 miles ( I have 310 right now) should I use a Mineral or jump right into Synthetic? Thanks for you help!

 

[ritler59]

You dont specify where but sounds like oil is for the shaft drive? I would put M1 full synth 75-90 in and not worry. I use that in my Concours 1400 shaft drive for ~43k no problemo. If its for engine then Shell T6 15-40 is cheap at wallyworld. I mean you're not gonna drive it in -10 winter are you? So Heat protection is paramount.

The Oil is for my transmission aka Final Gear Drive, they ask for GL-3 type but that cant be found anywhere. Is GL-4 or GL-5 Compatible? Thanks for your help!!

 

[Bonz]

Did some reading around here and on the ‘net. GL4 and GL5 have higher sulfur content which is corrosive to yellow metals such as brass and bronze. As well, it seemed to be limited to the early formulations of those oils and is supposedly not an issue now.

With that said, Master Pro 75w90 syn gear oil on my garage shelf from O’Reilly says it covers GL2 thru GL5, as does Master Pro dino 80w90. I would gather that if it says it meets the spec, you are good. Master Pro 75w140 syn covers all the bases as well.

Go to O’Reilly’s and get either one of the xxw90 versions and ride on, IMO. Or just do a 10w30 motor oil... Man, that’s not making the decision easier is it, what kind of help am I? LOL.

FWIW, the Valvoline 75w90 syn and 80w90 dino in my garage only show GL4/GL5.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Why would a transmission work on 85w GL-3 or 10W-30 SAE? It clearly states so in the owner's manual and the shop manual.

Because they both have essentially the same viscosity (see chart in link below). But I'd probably use the gear oil because it most likely has better additives for a gearbox type use.

Viscosity Charts - Bob is the Oil Guy

Viscosities can be related horizontally only Viscosities based on 96 VI single grade oils. ISO are specified at 40°C AGMA are specified at 40°C SAE 75w, 80w, 85, 5w, & 10w specified at low temperature. Equivalent viscosities for 100° & 210°F are shown SAE 90 to 250 and 20 to 50 specified at...

www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Bonz]

Since it's a final drive housing, 80w-90 and call it good.

 

[ulflyer]

My Yamaha Scooter calls for 85W-GL-3 or 10W-30 SAE Motor Oil, I cannot find 85W GL-3 Oil Anywhere, can;
1. 85W-90 GL-4 be used in its place?
2. Why does the manual lists 10W-30 SAE as an alternative?
I live in the North East where temps can range between -10 and 100+ what range oil should I use 10W-30 or 10W-40?
My bike is fairly new and has low mileage (500) so is still in the breaking period, when I change the Oil should I stay with Mineral, Semi-Synthetic or FULL Synthetic?
Please advise,

I've had several Suzuki 400's, couple Yam 400's, all scooters, and for the final drive unit, they called for motor oil. I used synthetic 10-40. I'd say you would be fine with 10-30.