2018 VW Golf Sportwagen 48K 3K mid-OCI peek Liquimoly Molygen 5W40 after track weekend/new turbo

The base Golfs have 288s up front and 272 out back. I swapped my fronts to 312s like the base GTIs have and running yellows up front and Motul 600 fluid seemed ok. The R brakes are where I will likely end up (340s) and can even go up a size in teh back to the GTI performance pack brakes. Issue is that they are heavy - BBKs save a lot of weight but they also are just too much money in my opinion. With the R brakes, they are known to work but ideally you should swap to the R master cylinder as well. I was able to get up to 130 on the track so slowing from that cooked my original setup.
I have 312mm on Tiguan. I am really not sure why they put on that car 288 unless saving money.
Interestingly I have 312 on BMW, and those brakes did not blink on track. I think if you go Ferodo you might be close to solve an issue.
 
I have 312mm on Tiguan. I am really not sure why they put on that car 288 unless saving money.
Interestingly I have 312 on BMW, and those brakes did not blink on track. I think if you go Ferodo you might be close to solve an issue.
I've heard great things about those Ferodos! Interseting that they put 312s on the Alltrack but not the Sportwagen with 4Motion which is basically the same car.
 
I've heard great things about those Ferodos! Interseting that they put 312s on the Alltrack but not the Sportwagen with 4Motion which is basically the same car.
Here they are:
 
Are the BMWs line the VWs where lotsnof the parts are interchangeable?
 
Are the BMWs line the VWs where lotsnof the parts are interchangeable?
Easier I would say. Brakes from 335 are bolt on 328. 348mm rotor, bigger caliper. Rear are larger too.
Only thing necessary is to code brakes. You basically tell computer that you have performance brakes, and EBD adjustes EBD, ABS, etc.
 
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Just ordered a Mann filter and drain plug from FCP for $14 as well as some of the new Liquimoly DI Jectron ($10) to try out and a set of Denso IKH24 plugs to replace the ones I just took out (lifetime replacement!) - I like to always have a set of plugs in stock in the garage for this car. I will pick up some Mobil 1 0W40 at Costco this week for $23/6 qts and knock out a 6K mile oil change this month on this oil and get some data (I'll do both a UOA and VOA) - my hypothesis is that it will look the same w/r to wear metals and %viscosity/flash point drop over a 5K change as the LM products I've used based on other UOAs but sometimes you just need to try for yourself! Stay tuned. 5K will be about 3 mos. for me. So this oil change will cost me $37 vs. free for the LM (even though I suppose I can return the filter/plug for a refund if I kept using M1 so I would get some economy there over time).
 
Just ordered a Mann filter and drain plug from FCP for $14 as well as some of the new Liquimoly DI Jectron ($10) to try out and a set of Denso IKH24 plugs to replace the ones I just took out (lifetime replacement!) - I like to always have a set of plugs in stock in the garage for this car. I will pick up some Mobil 1 0W40 at Costco this week for $23/6 qts and knock out a 6K mile oil change this month on this oil and get some data (I'll do both a UOA and VOA) - my hypothesis is that it will look the same w/r to wear metals and %viscosity/flash point drop over a 5K change as the LM products I've used based on other UOAs but sometimes you just need to try for yourself! Stay tuned. 5K will be about 3 mos. for me. So this oil change will cost me $37 vs. free for the LM (even though I suppose I can return the filter/plug for a refund if I kept using M1 so I would get some economy there over time).
Excellent. Thanx for doing this. This will be really good info.
 
Excellent. Thanx for doing this. This will be really good info.
No problem. I used M1 exclusively in my MK4 2.0 Jetta with 10K changes and sold it from new at 220K, it's good oil for sure just curious if you really see any differences vs. the LM. Will be a few mos.
 
No problem. I used M1 exclusively in my MK4 2.0 Jetta with 10K changes and sold it from new at 220K, it's good oil for sure just curious if you really see any differences vs. the LM. Will be a few mos.
I cannot really do UOA as my N52 has leaking Housing gasket now. SO I have to add like 0.2-0.3 qt of oil every 1500-2000 miles. I do not want to change that as I need to change whole housing assembly in few months to add oil cooler.
 
I cannot really do UOA as my N52 has leaking Housing gasket now. SO I have to add like 0.2-0.3 qt of oil every 1500-2000 miles. I do not want to change that as I need to change whole housing assembly in few months to add oil cooler.
I'm a 25K a year driver in my Golf so 4 changes a year or so, no consumption to speak of. Easy for me to try a new oil.
 
I'm a 25K a year driver in my Golf so 4 changes a year or so, no consumption to speak of. Easy for me to try a new oil.
I rack up a lot of miles too. But no point to do UOA when I have to add some oil due to leaky filter housing.
Once I put new housing with thermostat access, I will see how M1 0W40 does on track compared to several other oils.
 
Picked up a 6-pack of Mobil 1 0W40 at Costco today - $37 so not on sale so not such a great bargain but didn't care, I was there. Mann filter was $10 at FCP and drain plug was $3.50 at FPC so ~$50 which isn't bad for a full-price oil change. Sometimes I see the 6-packs of M1 on sale for about $24 I believe.
 
Was on sale last month for $22/case.

Picked up a 6-pack of Mobil 1 0W40 at Costco today - $37 so not on sale so not such a great bargain but didn't care, I was there. Mann filter was $10 at FCP and drain plug was $3.50 at FPC so ~$50 which isn't bad for a full-price oil change. Sometimes I see the 6-packs of M1 on sale for about $24 I believe.
 
Mobil 1 in, Liquimoly out. We will see what we get after 5-6K!
 
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