2018 Subaru Crosstrek - 6,036 mi - Factory Fill

[kaesees]

I took delivery of this car from the factory in the middle of the coldest January I've experienced since I moved to Connecticut. I'm really pleased with it so far. I drive it normally and get much better than the EPA fuel economy for the manual transmission version, the power is enough for me, the handling is fantastic for the amount of ground clearance you have, and the ride is comfortable. I wish the rev hang in low gears was a little less, but you can't win 'em all.

This was my first time going through NAPA for a UOA. I'm pleased with the price and the response time. Slightly miffed that a few items for which I filled in a response on the sheet were treated as if they had been left blank (eg. I filled in "Subaru Factory Fill" as the oil on the form but the oil brand and type are marked as unknown on the UOA report, and a few other things look like they weren't copied over). Also, I didn't realize that NAPA's lab didn't run a fuel dilution test or check the flashpoint, though I do about 8.5 miles of highway driving in the middle of each leg of my daily commute so I'm not super worried about what the dilution might be despite the FB20D being a direct-injection engine.

I filled with Zepro Eco Medalist Advanced Moly when I performed the oil change, and used a Subaru OEM filter (purchased in a 12-pack). Curious what the numbers will look like after the next OCI.

 

[Dylan1303]

Is that much copper normal for ff?

 

[SnowDrifter]

In this case, yes

 

[Mainia]

I am one who likes to dump factory fills early. But iron at 29 for that many miles a FF is not bad. Copper does no damage flowing through the filter and engine. Even though we see first run FF in long use seem to be ok, I myself just can't do it. Too OCD on after seeing new snowblowers and lawnmower oil with no filter, even though I know a car has one. I see the glitter in the oil and know some of that is so fine I know it goes right throuh the filter. So I dump early.

 

[Danno]

I see Subaru believes in (very) high moly for FF.

 

[SR5]

Wow !! 1020 ppm Zinc and 1100 ppm Moly.
That is a rich brew.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Wow !! 1020 ppm Zinc and 1100 ppm Moly.
That is a rich brew.


Just about all manufacturers enrich their factory oil with more additives like moly. We first noticed it here like 10-15 years ago with Honda and Toyota UOAs. So unless you are a total wreck worrying about metals floating around your new engine, leave the factory-fill in for at least 5K.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: kaesees
I filled with Zepro Eco Medalist Advanced Moly when I performed the oil change, and used a Subaru OEM filter (purchased in a 12-pack). Curious what the numbers will look like after the next OCI.
Excellent choice on oil. Lots of moly to help a new engine. Its got around 700 ppm, which is about 10 times the typical amount in most 0w20 oils. ...............As a side note, there was a Honda technician on here (I think mightymousetech ?) that posted Honda-Acura engineers were telling dealerships that the high-moly in new engines prevents hot spots (high friction areas) from forming during break-in, likely in the cylinder bore. Moly appears to be a good idea for engines with less than 15,000 miles or so, but after that any dexos1 0w20 will do just as well.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: SR5
Wow !! 1020 ppm Zinc and 1100 ppm Moly.
That is a rich brew.
Just about all manufacturers enrich their factory oil with more additives like moly. We first noticed it here like 10-15 years ago with Honda and Toyota UOAs. So unless you are a total wreck worrying about metals floating around your new engine, leave the factory-fill in for at least 5K.

It was thought the factory assembly lube had high moly, and it was a good thing for it to stick around. We don't always see it in factory fills. There often.

 

[kaesees]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Moly appears to be a good idea for engines with less than 15,000 miles or so, but after that any dexos1 0w20 will do just as well.


Coincidentally, I bought 2 5-quart jugs of ZEMAM when it was on sale a couple of months ago for ~$4/qt, which will take me through 18k miles, and I grabbed 4 5-quart jugs of regular Idemitsu yesterday when it went on sale for just under $3/qt.

I also have a jug of D1G2 Zepro that I got during the sale. I might do a comparative VOA of the two versions of Zepro to sate my curiosity.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Wow !! 1020 ppm Zinc and 1100 ppm Moly.
That is a rich brew.


I'd still dump it after about 1,000 miles to flush out break-in particles.

If you think about it, they have to add all those extra anti wear additives to the oil to keep the SANDPAPER like factory fill from sanding down the internals out of spec.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

You don't have a oil filter?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

On my subaru's the FF has been the best oil and the Tokyo Roki filter (which I cant get around here) is the best filter. The Blue Fram-a-roo service filter is OK. Not stellar. The Wife's new crosstrek (never serviced or driven by me EVER) has horrendous start-up racket for a couple minutes. Sounds like T-Chain grinding. Note that the O.E. Factory oil and filter showed No problem and impressive (for a Subaru) near silent and smooth operation.

So my interim conclusion is that Idemitsu Subaru 0W20 and Blue Fram-a -roo filter ain't cutting it.
But this is as expected from my extensive past experience. Wife has lifetime engine warranty and hshe is having over the top dealer recommended service done. Booo.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Here is my rec to thouse whom are torn about dumping FF and replacing it.

Change the filter - not the oil.

Then you wont have LARGE particals moving about the bearings and HLA during a bypass event.