2018 MAZDA 3 2.5 MaxLife Synthetic new formula 5W-30 5500 MILES
- Thread starter KEVINK0000
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- Dec 30, 2006
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Here's another (I'm assuming Maxlife) just posted with a totally different add pack:
'04 Honda Element 215k high potassium
'04 Honda Element LX MT with 215k miles. I changed the oil after purchase at 210k and had a blackstone analysis done, which showed excessive potassium (122ppm) vs. the 2 it should have been. (Also showed iron at 10 ppm (s/b 9), alu at 5 ppm, and magnesium, phosphorous and zinc at elevated...
bobistheoilguy.com
Anywhere else in the world, 5w30 is an acceptable/recommended oil for this vehicle by a quick search on the ‘net. 0w20 is CAFE driven in the USA, pure and simple as discussed in many threads over the past years.
Yes, no issues at all before 75,000 miles. The oil is rated the same as the non-high mileage stuff, makes no difference.
But the report is just "average"
Some of the least expensive oils had high moly in the past like the old
SL Formula Shell.
Yes.
In other markets, Mazda recommends 5w30 for this engine. I personally do not recognize the distortions in reality that CAFE regulations cause. That car is driven aggressively at times, and also has a short daily commute, and is DI, so there is fuel in the oil on an ongoing basis. I personally have never seen excessive wear from higher viscosity oils in any engine I have had experience with. I personally have replaced components in engines that have failed at least partially due to long drains and lower viscosity oils. I admit, and enjoy, my "thick oil bias".
Many engines that I have tried going up a grade ran poorly, likely due to the low mass reciprocating components and the way the VVTi was programmed to allow a wide range of cam phasing when in open loop. Intake cam advance will cause loss of low end torque and maybe affect operation of the autobox and EGR and ignition timing; you may end up outside of acceptable or anticipated operating parameters.Yes.
In other markets, Mazda recommends 5w30 for this engine. I personally do not recognize the distortions in reality that CAFE regulations cause. That car is driven aggressively at times, and also has a short daily commute, and is DI, so there is fuel in the oil on an ongoing basis. I personally have never seen excessive wear from higher viscosity oils in any engine I have had experience with. I personally have replaced components in engines that have failed at least partially due to long drains and lower viscosity oils. I admit, and enjoy, my "thick oil bias".
I have added thicker oils in the past but never ever found going up a grade for the whole sump worked. Never.
I would be interesting to hear some anecdotes where it did.
And, I've tried moving up a grade more than a few times on a good cross section of engine and vehicle types.
Toyota and Nissan and even Ford seem quite viscosity sensitive, Honda not so much with their VTEC engines, and Subaru just a little, but more so sensitive with the FB series.
So, If i feel an engine needs a bit of "help" I may top off with the next higher grade or sub 1 qt with a higher grade/same label when doing an oil change. My harsh commute and pleasure drives have never seemed to require more than that - but I'm not talking about auto crossing or other motorsports - just aggressive street driving - or even normal street driving and commuting.
- Ken
I hadn’t thought of that. There may be North America programming issues notwithstanding that different viscosities may be used worldwide.
Anyway, if this forum proves anything, it’s that we turn in excellent wear rates using quality oils and decent oil filters with manufacturer recommended viscosities.
Ken,
Thanks for the response.
Well, my experience is exactly the opposite. We currently have 5 VVT vehicles from various brands in our family. One is a Ford 4.6 Mustang, running the same oil here. None have experienced any issues that I have seen thus far. This goes back years. So, I have heard about what you describe from others, I think it was actually on BITOG, but have not seen anything remotely resembling a downside. Even on a BMW/Prince n16 engine that originally called for 5-20, then they re-specced it to 5w-30 with a dealer campaign. Now I run 0w-40 in it with no issues, and it is dual VANOS. Granted, there have been many factory reflashes on that vehicle, and maybe those dealt with VANOS calibration, I have no specific knowledge of that. There are many 0-20 and 0-16 oil reports here that are very good. I am not denying them, or anyone to follow the manufacturer specs. I like having discussion about these things, so thank you again.
I though someone just got and email from Valvoline that said Maxlife contained no Mollie?
Average report, true enough, but Vader hasn’t seen that much moly in a non-boutique oil before.
PQIA shows moly in Maxlife red bottle which contradicts the Valvoline rep’s info. Have also seen UOAs of Regular and Maxlife synthetic with moly as well. Maybe the rep was just misinformed or didn’t understand the request. I guess we will know for sure once more reports are posted.
Red Bottle is not full synthetic its a blend.
I would believe what the Valvoline customer service rep said about no moly content, over any sample of one tested by Blackstone lab. PQIA did two tests of Maxlife the full synthetic and the red bottle and both were
https://pqia.org/valvoline-high-mileage-maxlife-sae-10w-30-synthetic-blend-motor-oil/
This is a newer report for the SP version with moly.
This is a newer report for the SP version with moly.
Well,
Quite a controversy! I will cheerfully post the results of the next OCI with the same oil as soon as I have it!
Quite a controversy! I will cheerfully post the results of the next OCI with the same oil as soon as I have it!
Good report. If Blackstone is picking up fuel I would keep the service intervals to this distance unles The service seen changes to longer runs.
