2018 Horse Trailer, How To Fix connection Plug That Has Lock Lug Sanded Off.

D

Driz

Joined
Sep 23, 2007
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1,113
Location
Northern New York
It’s a very nice trailer with an OEM loom all molded nice and tight in great shape ,:cry:but..... The PO had it pop out and the small lock nub got sanded away. I really hate to chop it off and stick on an add on. Is there any brilliant way to build up that nub that locks it in??? I’ve thought of screwing in a tiny screw and building on that with JB Weld. Or. Welding a glob on a smallscrew then grinding to shape And screwing it in🤷‍♂️. Something like that. Any better ideas out there I’d love to hear them
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I can think of a few redneck fixes but nothing that looks professional.

You really just need a way to hold it in? is it always towed by the same truck?
 
Yea I'll probably have to . I was hoping to avoid breaking open the nice sealed plug and sticking on one of those add on make your own type. Ive had my share of corrosion problems with those over the years living in the road salt empire which is why Id like to salvage it
 
You should be able to install a new plug on there and make it looks just as professional as the OEM one. If you're worried about water getting in between the cable insulation and the plug you can smear a thin bead of RTV around that joint to seal it.

Any attempt to repair that existing plug would look hokey at best and I just don't think it would hold up.
 
On my old horse trailer in the past, the connector was retained by a spring arm on the circular socket cover that hooked over the back prong - the one that's sticking up by/between your thumb and index finger. If yours connects differently, maybe scavenge an "old" style spring cover? It looks like yours has a different style connector in the socket, but the old-style securing "tab" is still on that connector, undamaged.

There are a lot of ways to skin this cat before opening up that wire bundle and doing a lot of soldering and heat-shrinking.
 
AutoMechanic said:
Maybe get a new plug that looks like this one. I’m still lost as to what’s missing.
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There is a small "finger" that sticks out of the plug maybe 3/8" long. The flap you pop open to insert the plug has a slot where the finger fits into preventing the plug from pulling out. This plug fell on the asphalt and that sanded down the little "finger".
 
All the 7-pin ones I've seen the hook on the cover holds the plug in, and the part of the plug that engages the hook is still present on your plug.

The slot is just a slot to key the insertion of the plug to the proper rotational position. It doesn't hold the plug in.

If your truck socket doesn't have its cover with a hook, even an undamaged plug won't stay in. The socket would need replaced.

You can buy a plug with cable as a unit like the OEM did, then connect it back to the junction box on the trailer. If that seems expensive understand that all horse-related stuff is expensive.
 
I would think you could buy a plug that fits into damaged plug. Then JB weld that plug on. You would basically have a double plug which would be heavier but would be easier to repair. I don't know if they make a plug like that.
 
mk378 said:
All the 7-pin ones I've seen the hook on the cover holds the plug in, and the part of the plug that engages the hook is still present on your plug.

The slot is just a slot to key the insertion of the plug to the proper rotational position. It doesn't hold the plug in.

If your truck socket doesn't have its cover with a hook, even an undamaged plug won't stay in. The socket would need replaced.

You can buy a plug with cable as a unit like the OEM did, then connect it back to the junction box on the trailer. If that seems expensive understand that all horse-related stuff is expensive.
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That 3/8" nub is what I need. I guess I will give a try to building it up with a couple small screws and some epoxy. By the weight of that loom I can tell its 💸💸 and besides that almost new . The last time I saw one like this it was on something military so it would be a crime to chop it and toss on a U fab plug unless I had to. Ive done plenty of those and even have one on the shelf but Im not ready to go there just yet.
I think that plug is so thick I can seat a couple screws , scratch it deep enough to get a gob of Devcon to stick well enough for that fix. it should build up well enough to square off the end of that plug as well so it sits straight. :sleep: One of these days just like Pa Kettle........Im gonna have to get around to it if it ever warms🥶up.
 
mk378 said:
You can buy a plug with cable as a unit like the OEM did, then connect it back to the junction box on the trailer. If that seems expensive understand that all horse-related stuff is expensive.
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Yeah, electrical connectors for some reason are always really expensive, like $25 at NAPA. For a trailer I would assume more and mail order only.
 
mk378 said:
All the 7-pin ones I've seen the hook on the cover holds the plug in, and the part of the plug that engages the hook is still present on your plug.

The slot is just a slot to key the insertion of the plug to the proper rotational position. It doesn't hold the plug in.

If your truck socket doesn't have its cover with a hook, even an undamaged plug won't stay in. The socket would need replaced.
Click to expand...
+1
You have to ask yourself why the plug fell out of the socket to begin with.
 
Replace the whole thing. It is under 30 dollars and takes less than an hour. I did one on my old 5th wheel and on my current trailer.
This is the exact one I have had on my 32 foot travel trailer for the last 3 years.

7 pin trailer plug

The colors on your trailer will match the colors in the box as seen in the link I posted.

Ok look it is really none of my business, but you asked on an open forum. Why go through all of that when you can replace the whole thing in same of amount of time. That plug is important...the electric brake signal passes through that. Why even mess around with that pile?
 
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I don't understand what the problem is. You realize you have to really shove those plugs into the socket right? When I first used my 7 pin plug I just lightly pushed it in and thought just as long as that tab on the lid are together it will stay. Nope I stopped somewhere and realized the lights were off on the trailer.
 
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