2017 Kia Forte Transmission Fluid Drain/Fill

[Datarock]

I am looking to simply do a drain/fill on my transmission to remove first 10K wear particles and such. I would use Kia SP4 transmission oil. I see where the drain plug is located and I found the leveling opening. Is it safe to assume that I simply drain, plug the drain hole and fill the leveling hole until fluid comes out? I once read on a KIA forum the engine had to be on and then fill until fluid comes out but others have told me keep the engine off and fill it until it overflows. So I figured I would ask the great minds of BITOG.

Thanks!

 

[MParr]

The engine and transmission needs to be at full operating temperature. The car needs to be level. Drain and measure the amount drained. Refill with the same amount. Drive around to reach full operation temperature, make sure the car is level and remove the inspection plug. Top off if the fluid doesn't run out in a slow stream.

 

[MONKEYMAN]

Looks like SP4 has been replaced by Type 4-M. For my 2017 Elantra it is SP4-M. The M stands for money. It is more expensive.

SP-IV versus Type 4 Transmission Fluid

 

[cappilot]

Just did a drain and fill on a 2018 Optima. Probably the same procedure as the Forte. I had the same question about whether the engine should be running or shut off when checking the fluid level but I was not (easily) able to find the answer. Even the Kia service info I ran across didn't mention this tidbit of info.

Before removing the drain plug, I opened the level-check plug. The engine was not running. Plenty of fluid ran out, which seemed to be a good indicator that checking the level with the engine not running was not the way to go. I caught all the fluid that drained through the check plug and the drain plug, measured the amount, replaced the drain plug, left the check plug out, and started refilling the transmission. Fluid began dripping from the check hole long before all the replacement fluid had been added, so I installed the check plug and added the remainder of the fluid. When that was done, I drove around the neighborhood for a few minutes and, with the engine running, removed the check plug. I was rewarded with a very small stream of fluid seeping from the hole. Good enough for me.

As a side note, the transmission loves to burp fluid all over the place when fluid is being added. I encountered the same issue to a lesser degree when adding fluid to the transmission in a 2006 Kia Sedona, and that had a fairly long tube for the dipstick. On the Optima, I had to basically dribble the fluid in to avoid putting most of it on the ground. If anyone has a good way around this messy and slow process, I'd love to hear from you.

For all you Maxlife ATF fans, that's what went into the Optima. And the Sedona--once a year, every year, until the van was sold at 240,000 miles with a very healthy-feeling engine and transmission (but clapped-out suspension parts). And my 2001 Honda Odyssey from the 26,000 miles when I bought it to the current 134,000. And my daughter's 2001 BMW 740iL. But not to worry; the Chrysler Town & Country gets only ATF+4

 

[John_K]

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by MParr
The engine and transmission needs to be at full operating temperature. The car needs to be level. Drain and measure the amount drained. Refill with the same amount. Drive around to reach full operation temperature, make sure the car is level and remove the inspection plug. Top off if the fluid doesn't run out in a slow stream.
I assume this trans has a dipstick that you can use to check but there is nothing wrong with measuring what came out putting the same in. You can do this while the car is cold as long as the replacement ATF is the same temperature. If you're concerned about over or underfilling your trans this is what I would do. I know it's generic advice but it's hard to screw up doing it this way. Definitely use the dipstick, but this should get you closer than relying on a spec/check plug. You also don't need to be at operating temp or on level ground, you can presumably jack a single corner of the car if your drain is accessible.

My car has no dipstick and has a check plug. However, you need to put it through the gears to fill it up completely. Owners were using the plug, getting shifting issues and having to add another .5-1qt after going for a drive. Make sure you run it through the gears after you fill it up before you use the plug to check the level.
Originally Posted by cappilot
As a side note, the transmission loves to burp fluid all over the place when fluid is being added. I encountered the same issue to a lesser degree when adding fluid to the transmission in a 2006 Kia Sedona, and that had a fairly long tube for the dipstick. On the Optima, I had to basically dribble the fluid in to avoid putting most of it on the ground. If anyone has a good way around this messy and slow process, I'd love to hear from you.
ATF funnel: https://www.amazon.ca/Lumax-LX-1603-Plastic-Transmission-Funnel/dp/B00GD2HYQW Mine is a square funnel with shut off on the bottom, with a corrugated bendy tube. The fill plug on my car is inaccessible without using it.

Originally Posted by cappilot
For all you Maxlife ATF fans, that's what went into the Optima.
Ata boy!

 

[Pelican]

Originally Posted by MParr
The engine and transmission needs to be at full operating temperature. The car needs to be level. Drain and measure the amount drained. Refill with the same amount. Drive around to reach full operation temperature, make sure the car is level and remove the inspection plug. Top off if the fluid doesn't run out in a slow stream.


You must make sure that both fluids (drain & fill) are at the same temperature or else you won't get a correct reading if you only measure volume.
With these new transmission it's best you go to the dealer IF he has the proper machinery.