2015 Ford F-250 Platinum PSD 4WD - The First Year

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I have owned my 2015 F-250 Platinum 6.7L Powerstroke Platinum 4WD for just shy of a year now and I thought I would share my thoughts about the first year of ownership.

It sits with about 22,300 miles on it and after the initial problems with the steering wheel misalignment (caused by defective tie-rod ends from the factory) the vehicle itself has given me zero trouble thus far. It has had a total of 6 oil changes:

1. Motorcraft Super Duty (10W-30) Factory Fill
2. Chevron Delo 400 LE (5W-40)
3. Shell Rotella T6 (5W-40)
4. Kendall Super-Dxa (15W-40)
5. Mobil Delvac 1 ESP (5W-40)
6. Chevron Delo 400 XLE (10W-30)

For the inquiring minds, of the 6 oils used, there are 3 which make the favorites list and they are in order—Delvac, Kendall, & Chevron LE. Motorcraft oil filters were used for the first two OCs and based upon the internal construction (or lack thereof), I switched to using CarQuest Blue filters. This was after using a WIX Gold filter which impressed me with its bulletproof construction and so I scored many WIX and Baldwin wire-backed media filters from Rock Auto for $5.27 each to the door. I have been very happy with those filters and have had no issues with them.

The air filter was changed at 10,692 and was incredibly dirty. The factory MC filter was deep-sixed in favor of a NAPA Gold, which was installed with filter grease. Surprisingly, (or perhaps not) the filter minder had not budged despite the filter being heavily loaded, which makes me question the effectiveness of the minder, therefore I check it every 10K miles.

I have upgraded the axle covers with Mag Hytecs front and rear and replaced the factory gear oil with Amsoil Severe Gear oil in both units at 8,600 miles. The OEM power steering fluid was nixed in favor of Amsoil synthetic LV lube at 20,000 miles. Other additions include LED strip lighting for the step plates, and blue LED ambient lighting in the interior, adding the Ford OEM fifth wheel wiring harness in the bed, installing a Ford OEM rear sway bar, adding Husky rear fender wheel liners, and finally Ford splash guards. There are a few more upgrades on the horizon such as a remote filter for the PS system, one for the cooling system as well as an oil pressure and axle temperature gauges.

There are two negatives about the truck to note, one on Ford and one on the choice of tires. The headlights on the truck are far less than optimal and I will likely change them to aftermarket LED lights (the entire housings) at some point. They are the same as the ones I had on my 2010 FX4 with the same cheesy H13 bulbs with very minimal light output. In certain conditions, you can easily out drive the lights. Ford obviously fixed this on the 2017 models with the LED systems like they did with the 2015 F150.

The second thorn in my side is Ford’s choice of Michelin A/T2 tires for the stock rubber. These tires have been nothing but trouble since the day I drove off the lot. Despite the fact the two front tires were ruined by the aforementioned alignment problem, I have had 3 other tire replacements due to vibration or lack of ability to balance. One tire was replaced after 25 miles because it took more than 18 ounces of weight to even bring it close to balance. Though they seem to be wearing just fine, IMHO for the cost, they are POS—unlike the Michelin MS/2 tires which were on my 2010 F-150 and rode like glass and wore like iron.

Otherwise, I have thoroughly enjoyed this first year of ownership even with the extra maintenance required of a modern diesel engine. Which, by the way, runs like a dream with more power than I ever envisioned and provided one keeps the boost gauge below 10 psi can manage some decent MPG, this even with the size of the engine and weight of the truck. The oft claimed hassle with checking the fuel system for water and tending the DEF system and cooling system have been a non-issue, but one should be prepared for more maintenance going into a modern diesel. All in all, I am very happy with the truck and all it has to offer and would definitely buy it over a gasoline model.
 
Thanks for the review. Was thinking about getting a King Ranch F250. I have 14,000 miles on F550 and haven't changed the air filter...minder has barely moved. When you changed the air filter did you have to unhook one of the batteries? Sorry for the off topic question. Appreciate all your insights...been helpful with my F550. Thanks.
 
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If the engine has a OLM did you change the oil when the OLM indicated to?

What about vehicle stability going over rough pavement or bridge expansion joints?

I am getting 20 MPG going 65 to 70 on the highway with cruise control on. Easy on gas (diesel) pedal.
 
Originally Posted By: mbacfp
When you changed the air filter did you have to unhook one of the batteries? Sorry for the off topic question. Appreciate all your insights...been helpful with my F550. Thanks.
No worries. No, I did not unhook the battery--plenty of clearance.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
If the engine has a OLM did you change the oil when the OLM indicated to?
No; I did not. I ALWAYS change the oil early on a new engine to remove the wear metals. Others never do and have no issues either, but it works for me. In addition, unlike some, I have seen fuel dilution in my UOAs which is another reason to change it early. Except for the FF OC, I have averaged about 5K on an OC.

Originally Posted By: Donald
What about vehicle stability going over rough pavement or bridge expansion joints?
I have had zero issues with this, though I know that others have.

Originally Posted By: Donald
I am getting 20 MPG going 65 to 70 on the highway with cruise control on. Easy on gas (diesel) pedal.
I experienced the same, I have managed up to 23.2 on a trip from Houston to Dallas.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
OP - consider Road Force balancing if you are not using it.
Been there, done that--Michelin AT/2 tires are POS. I will not be using Michelin again on this vehicle when they wear out.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
What did the upgraded diff. covers get you except a nice look?
Four things:

-- increased capacity
-- tapped hole for temperature sending unit
-- ease of maintenance as in dipstick to check levels and drain plug to drain oil
-- extra cooling via finned surface area
 
2017 model is going aluminum like the F-150. There are many other new upgrades also that will make the older vehicle a better buy for the money. If I was shopping I would buy the older model when the new one is in high demand. Also I learned not to buy new 1st year models from a 96 taurus that was nothing but trouble.
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: Donald
If the engine has a OLM did you change the oil when the OLM indicated to?
No; I did not. I ALWAYS change the oil early on a new engine to remove the wear metals. Others never do and have no issues either, but it works for me. In addition, unlike some, I have seen fuel dilution in my UOAs which is another reason to change it early. Except for the FF OC, I have averaged about 5K on an OC.

Originally Posted By: Donald
What about vehicle stability going over rough pavement or bridge expansion joints?
I have had zero issues with this, though I know that others have.

Originally Posted By: Donald
I am getting 20 MPG going 65 to 70 on the highway with cruise control on. Easy on gas (diesel) pedal.
I experienced the same, I have managed up to 23.2 on a trip from Houston to Dallas.
That is impressive for a huge heavy vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I bought my 2016 with 32k so whatever was done early on was done. I am going to wait for the OLM, which has not said boo yet. I am at 40k.
How long will you go before changing it if the OLM never signals? What kind of driving do you do? All highway? If so, 8K is not bad, but if all city, I would have already changed it.
 
Originally Posted By: Boczech
What is the cost for a 2015 Ford F-250 Platinum PSD 4WD ?
The sticker was $66,700.
 
Originally Posted By: spk2000
2017 model is going aluminum like the F-150. There are many other new upgrades also that will make the older vehicle a better buy for the money. If I was shopping I would buy the older model when the new one is in high demand. Also I learned not to buy new 1st year models from a 96 taurus that was nothing but trouble.


3/4 & 1 Ton Diesel truck resale values don't always track like normal.
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: Donald
I bought my 2016 with 32k so whatever was done early on was done. I am going to wait for the OLM, which has not said boo yet. I am at 40k.
How long will you go before changing it if the OLM never signals? What kind of driving do you do? All highway? If so, 8K is not bad, but if all city, I would have already changed it.


I bought the truck when I worked from home. That changed quickly. Now I commute 65 miles almost all highway. I will get a UOA soon to check out the oil. But it's sump is 16 QT.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: Donald
I bought my 2016 with 32k so whatever was done early on was done. I am going to wait for the OLM, which has not said boo yet. I am at 40k.
How long will you go before changing it if the OLM never signals? What kind of driving do you do? All highway? If so, 8K is not bad, but if all city, I would have already changed it.
But it's sump is 16 QT.
So is mine.
smile.gif
You may be OK with fuel dilution with all highway miles--I know RoadRunner states he never sees dilution in his UOAs and does long drives. I see about 70/30 (highway versus city) and I have seen up to 3.x% fuel dilution so I stay on top of it.
 
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