2014 Silverado 5.3 Recommendation

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There are two that come to mind right off the bat. The phalax test (which is a reliable test if performed correctly). Another good one is the special that Trucks! did on Royal Purple products. Both good videos that are just a google away! Enjoy
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Originally Posted By: jk_636
There are two that come to mind right off the bat. The phalax test (which is a reliable test if performed correctly). Another good one is the special that Trucks! did on Royal Purple products. Both good videos that are just a google away! Enjoy
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I assume you're referring to the Falex machine -- it's called the "one-arm bandit", and with good reason.

As for the Trucks video, here you go:
 
Thanks I didn't spell check that I guess! And the one armed bandit is nonsense. If all the variables are the same (I.E. the weight, when and how it is distributed) it can give you a rough idea of lubricity. Maybe not the most scientific test, but I don't think it deserves to be dismissed as malarkey either.
 
Give up?
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This is a forum of many enthusiasts and few experts. Judging by your response, you may be a self proclaimed version of latter. Now that the personal attacks are over, lets get back on topic shall we?
 
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Being truthful is not a personal attack. RP is not the best nor will it ever be. Using MSRP as justification of a product being better is rather funny.
 
Interesting question.
A "Father" buys a new truck that comes with free oil changes.
Eight thousand miles(two thousand more than the oil life monitor would indicate 0% oil life remaining) he is wondering what to do.
Is the question real or an imagined scenario?
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Give up?
smirk.gif
This is a forum of many enthusiasts and few experts. Judging by your response, you may be a self proclaimed version of latter. Now that the personal attacks are over, lets get back on topic shall we?


JK,

You've stated that we, collectively, need to "do some more research." As well, you've stated that "there are some really good tests out there that show Royal Purple dominating the competition."

If you can provide any information/research to substantiate your claims (other than the Falex, which is not recognized nor accepted by the ASTM), we'd be grateful for your time in doing so.
 
Originally Posted By: used_0il
Interesting question.
A "Father" buys a new truck that comes with free oil changes.
Eight thousand miles(two thousand more than the oil life monitor would indicate 0% oil life remaining) he is wondering what to do.
Is the question real or an imagined scenario?


I am under the impression the GM OLM does not have a set mileage it could indicate an oil change. Service advisers will tell owners oil needs to be changed at 3K.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
I would use Napa SYN in your case and not look back.

I would agree. Royal Purple does have its place up here, and I've used it myself, but it's best used in a limited set of circumstances. My supplier gets it for me cheaper than most regularly priced synthetics. So, that's okay if I both insisted upon a synthetic and never shopped sales. Even in most retail stores, it's priced between M1 and M1 EP, which is reasonable.

On the other hand, it almost never goes on sale up here. And, when it does, it's something silly like a 10% off or 15% off sale, as opposed to the 35% to 50% we commonly see taken off of big name synthetics. I don't think wolf_06 is averse to buying from Canadian Tire or Napa on sale, as he's already indicated, so he might as well. RP up here is best reserved for guys who despise the majors and/or only buy from a jobber who happens to be an RP dealer.
 
I'm sorry I've come off as unbelieveable. I can assure you this is a legit scenario. The dealer actually changed the oil over already at 5k, using the synthetic blend. I think there was around 40% or less on the OLM when that happened. I picked up "father" at the dealership from that change and we talked about how viable a 0-20 blend was at that time. I assured him I'd look into it before his next change and that as long as it was spec oil it should at least be fine for 5k.

We are knocking on that door with the mileage he puts on so I figured to ask, to be safe. I've had an oil related failure following the manufacturers guidelines. Probably one of the only people on BITOG that can say the same.

I have a right to be skittish on saying full steam ahead and follow the manufacturer 100% without getting a second opinion from those who admittedly are more well versed.

I also have a vested interest in keeping this truck in good running condition. It could be mine one day, or my work ride at least when I'm helping him. If you have any further questions fire away.

I cannot believe I'm having to justify this.

I thank you to anyone who has given any advice to me on this,
especially the guy who posted Sierra UOAs, I should have looked for those. Slipped my mind. I couldn't believe no one had bought one of these and put up numbers, but I only searched for a 14 Silverado.
 
My son bought a 2013 1500 5.3 14 months ago that now has almost 40,000 km on it (24,000 mi). Someone wondered how 15W40 would work in a 5.3 so I tried it for 10,200KM from 23,100-33,300.

The uoa indicated 2.5% fuel, a copper spike, (which indicates he is into the oil cooler)
lead at zero, which was my biggest concern.
The ZDDP was down far enough that extending the interval is not in the plan just yet.
The fuel dilution, possibly from the cylinder dropping tech caused the 100C to drop from 15.1 to 13.5.
There is still breaking-in going on, but other wear metals are at near zero.

I replaced the 15W40 with the same brand of 5W40, 6,000 miles shows 22% oil life remaining with 95% highway and 10 weeks use.
Next week my daughter is trading her 2013 Matrix for a 2014 5.3 GMC, the same as her brother's.

(Her father in law was an engineer at GM (retired) and I have a friend who's family has 18 GM dealerships, so the grandson bleeds Chevy orange.)

Will or do I use 5W20?
No, but I don't care or worry about warranty.
I've never had to.
I'll use 10W30 CJ-4/SN of any brand.
I always change the original oil asap and it never looks like anything you would want to put back into the engine.
Some manufactures like Mercedes Benz do that before the vehicles leave the factory " We go great lengths......so you don't have to" it says in the owner's manual.
 
IYtpCsM.jpg

Here's my jeep, my A3, and his truck. Hooked to a trailer at that...if there is still any doubt as to any of the vehicles I've ever posted about.

The 13 is no doubt a fine engine but I'm led to believe the 14 is at least a very different beast. DI is new to this engine family for one, and I know it's not the most oil friendly tech.

I know I've seen things about GM having to revise OLM calibration in their crossovers to account for it.

I feel better having asked a group consensus before dishing out my amature conjecture to someone I care about.

I take it on good faith that your son really does have one of those. You probably wouldn't like it if I tried to insinuate otherwise without a good reason.
 
Do tell.

Originally Posted By: lawrencerd
I've had an oil related failure following the manufacturers guidelines. Probably one of the only people on BITOG that can say the same.


This is BITOG. You have to justify everything. You'll get used to it.

Originally Posted By: lawrencerd
I cannot believe I'm having to justify this.
 
jk = just kidding? That's what I surmise by reading your posts.

Originally Posted By: jk_636
Give up?
smirk.gif
This is a forum of many enthusiasts and few experts. Judging by your response, you may be a self proclaimed version of latter. Now that the personal attacks are over, lets get back on topic shall we?
 
You know what? You are right. Statement recanted. Opinion changed. New opinion: It's a darn Chevy Sileraydoo, with a Vortec engine made or real tornadoes. It can run on anything
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(joke requires viewing of stupid youtube video)
 
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Quaker State dexos blend or Quaker State Ultimate Durability in 0W-20 would be a good, relatively cheap choice. This is assuming UD is still available in the 0W-20 grade. It should be, but I haven't been seeing it at my local Wal Mart. The UD in 5W-20 should be fine as well, as it also has the dexos1 cert. The dealer could very well be using ACDelco dexos1 blend, probably in 5W-20, as I'm not sure if Delco has a 0W-20. Keep in mind that most of those trucks that enter fleet service will probably be run on a 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino, with a conservative OCI. If it were mine, I'd probably chance the dino with 5K intervals. That is just me.
 
OW-20 DEXOS licensed until out of warranty. Pick one from the list. I'm with SteveSRT8 on this one. GM attaches a pretty stout powertrain warranty to their trucks, but they are also VERY clear in the owner's manual. A DEXOS licensed (not just "meets" DEXOS spec) oil. The OLM is already shown to be conservative based on the UOAs gonefishing has posted and no fuel dilution issues as of yet.
 
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My brother has a 14 Silverado 5.3, and has been running 0w20 PP and changing at OLM intervals. He has also installed a catch can. If you havnt, you should google it to see what I'm talking about, and then install one as well.
 
The 2013 5.3 has 5W30 on the fill cap.

What changes to the engine were made since last year that now it requires 5W20 instead?

When NASCAR teams are qualifying for a better starting position, they will put a very light oil in the engine.

For the actual race however, when top performance is not required, they go back to the thicker stuff.
 
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