2014 Explorer 3.5L Duratec 138k Amsoil SS 5w-30 10.4k OCI

[Danimal1q2w3]

My parent’s explorer. Used a fram ultra. 90% highway but also includes 4 miles of dusty dirt roads per day.

 

[dnewton3]

Looks unremarkable, as it should.
Curious what the previous sample was (oil and mileage)?
If you're interested in saving money, the same results can be had from less expensive lubes.
Keep an eye on both the coolant bottle and the UOA for coolant; the water pump issue is by far the most threatening thing to this engine series.

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

Looks unremarkable, as it should.
Curious what the previous sample was (oil and mileage)?
If you're interested in saving money, the same results can be had from less expensive lubes.
Keep an eye on both the coolant bottle and the UOA for coolant; the water pump issue is by far the most threatening thing to this engine series.

It was unknown oil and mileage. Our goal is to only have to change the oil about once per year, with the UOA and not needing any make up it’s about $100 per year for the oil change. Not so bad. Especially if we end up stretching this out real long. I have another friend that’s doing a really long run on amsoil SS. about 30k miles

 

[dnewton3]

The 3.5L n/a engine has a history of running very clean; it's not a "sludger". Longer OCIs are reasonably tolerated by this engine series.
If the annual mileage is less than 15k miles a year, it's likley they could use a conventional house brand oil and save some coin.
I ran almost 12k miles on ST dino oil with a TG filter ... My OCI cost about $25. Your parents OCI (minus the UOA) is around $75. They spent 3x the money and got no return whatsoever on the investment. That's $50 more money to get nothing back.
Here's my 3.5L UOA for reference: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-miles-supertech-5w-20-at-11-8k-miles.349116/
I'm not saying you'll get the exact same results, but given the nature of the engine and the lubes, it's certainly a safe bet that they could save money and get a much better ROI.

Either way, motor on! I really like these engines; quiet, powerful and reasonably fuel efficient. If not for the water pump issue, they'd be my choice for about every application.

 

[Gene K]

Once I hit 150,000 mi on one of those I would be a nervous wreck. Would constantly worry about the potential for the waterpump to leak coolant into the oil.

 

[K.Aoi]

Definitely keep an eye on the waterpump.

 

[dnewton3]

Once I hit 150,000 mi on one of those I would be a nervous wreck. Would constantly worry about the potential for the waterpump to leak coolant into the oil.

It's a legit concern. However keeping an eye on the coolant bottle, and getting UOAs to check the coolant intrustion potential, gives one a decent view of the onset. It's a matter of tracking info and checking with diligence.

The folks that get burned with a ruined engine are the ones who are oblivious to the issue and don't track the onset of problems.

 

[Artem]

I think spotting coolant decreasing in the coolant reservoir over the coarse of 10k miles would be a better way to go vs waiting a year to finally peek at a UOA for engine health.

 

[dnewton3]

If I suspected coolant disappearing from the bottle, I don't think I'd be waiting 10k miles to UOA. I'd increase the fequency of the UOA to perhaps every 3k miles. Though expensive to UOA every 3k miles, it's a LOT cheaper than a new engine.

These water pumps don't fail instantaneously. Most people get caught off gaurd simply because they are unaware of the severity of the issue and never look for the failure onset. If you pay close attention, it's likley (though not assured) you'll catch it in time before it destroys the engine.

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

If I suspected coolant disappearing from the bottle, I don't think I'd be waiting 10k miles to UOA. I'd increase the fequency of the UOA to perhaps every 3k miles. Though expensive to UOA every 3k miles, it's a LOT cheaper than a new engine.

These water pumps don't fail instantaneously. Most people get caught off gaurd simply because they are unaware of the severity of the issue and never look for the failure onset. If you pay close attention, it's likley (though not assured) you'll catch it in time before it destroys the engine.

Talked to my dad today. He says the heat was blowing cold a few months ago, he added coolant and it’s been fine. This was before the oil change, so definitely no coolant in the oil

 

[Artem]

Talked to my dad today. He says the heat was blowing cold a few months ago, he added coolant and it’s been fine. This was before the oil change, so definitely no coolant in the oil

no heat so he added “coolant” and now it’s making “heat”??? interesting how that works, isn’t it?

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

no heat so he added “coolant” and now it’s making “heat”??? interesting how that works, isn’t it?

What a time to be alive

 

[mattd]

If the water pump is that big of a concern just replace it. People seem very scared of them but they are not a bad job to do.

 

[dnewton3]

I guess what you define as a "bad job" and how others see it exhibits a difference. I'm not not mistaken, the upper intake has to come off, the valve covers have to come off, one of the motor mounts has to come out, the crank pulley off, all to get the front cover off ... etc etc etc. It's about a 10 hour job on the books, is it not?

 

[mattd]

Ballpark but I don’t think it’s that much…I can do them in 4-5 hours as long as I have all necessary parts in my hand.

But yes, upper plenum, valve covers, engine mount at front of engine, timing cover/balancer, primary timing chain/guides, all need to come off. Oil changed is also required.

 

[doublebase]

I guess what you define as a "bad job" and how others see it exhibits a difference. I'm not not mistaken, the upper intake has to come off, the valve covers have to come off, one of the motor mounts has to come out, the crank pulley off, all to get the front cover off ... etc etc etc. It's about a 10 hour job on the books, is it not?

Or you can take the entire engine out, which some say is actually easier than doing that timing cover while it’s in the engine bay. Either way, it’s definitely not an easy job and I can see why people don’t just change these water pumps every 100,000 miles as part of a general maintenance routine.

 

[dnewton3]

I've called my local Ford dealer and also a trusted ASE shop nearby. Both said it's about a 10 hour hour. If mattd can get it done in "4-5 hours" then he needs to share his secret with the rest of us! I don't mind doing my own work; would love to know how you've cut it down to half the book time.

 

[mattd]

I’ve always been a fast worker. That is hustling and knowing exactly what tools you need when you need them and having everything lined up ready to go. Obviously this is the use of air and electric tooling for disassembly and “running the bolts in” prior to torquing on assembly.

 

[dnewton3]

You da man!