2014 Acura ILX.. Alum too high

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: rrounds
If your not happy with the 0/20, throw in M1 0/30 next time or 10/30 and do a couple of runs with that oil. Its not like you live where you need a 0 weight oil.

ROD


Warranty would be voided,I believe a little thicker oil offers more protection and better engine durability,but im not a honda expert
we certainly run thick stuff in our race engines

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: Excel
Originally Posted By: rrounds
If your not happy with the 0/20, throw in M1 0/30 next time or 10/30 and do a couple of runs with that oil. Its not like you live where you need a 0 weight oil.

ROD


Warranty would be voided,I believe a little thicker oil offers more protection and better engine durability,but im not a honda expert
we certainly run thick stuff in our race engines


Your warranty would not be voided. They would have to try very hard to deny replacement of anything due to an (unlikely) oil-related failure.

Again, is the intake stock? How did you verify it was tight?

 

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: Excel
Originally Posted By: rrounds
If your not happy with the 0/20, throw in M1 0/30 next time or 10/30 and do a couple of runs with that oil. Its not like you live where you need a 0 weight oil.

ROD


Warranty would be voided,I believe a little thicker oil offers more protection and better engine durability,but im not a honda expert
we certainly run thick stuff in our race engines


Your warranty would not be voided. They would have to try very hard to deny replacement of anything due to an (unlikely) oil-related failure.

Again, is the intake stock? How did you verify it was tight?


car is bone stock,only has one clamp and 2 small screws to the TB all are snug

 

[vinu_neuro]

This is clearly an air leak with the combined elevated silicon.

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: vinu_neuro
This is clearly an air leak with the combined elevated silicon.

Why is the chromium not higher?

If this occurs next time it might be time to get Dyson look at it.

http://www.dysonanalysis.com/

 

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: vinu_neuro
This is clearly an air leak with the combined elevated silicon.



There is something clearly wrong ,perhaps...I see no loose
fittings or fasteners ,pin holes in plastic ducting,cant see any.
Old air filter poor seal? maybe which is why i added a new WIX.

Well see next go around..

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: 90crvtec
These Honda engines will pretty much run on anything. So if you wanted to try 5w30 or even 10w30 I don't think you'd harm anything. But I also don't think there's a reason to do that yet, I'd stay with either 0w20 or 5w20 and see what happens with a few more miles.

I may get into trouble by saying this: Honda engines designed by Japanese engineer and manufactured in Japan is more reliable than the ones in US.

 

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: 90crvtec
These Honda engines will pretty much run on anything. So if you wanted to try 5w30 or even 10w30 I don't think you'd harm anything. But I also don't think there's a reason to do that yet, I'd stay with either 0w20 or 5w20 and see what happens with a few more miles.

I may get into trouble by saying this: Honda engines designed by Japanese engineer and manufactured in Japan is more reliable than the ones in US.



more reliable? Japenese vs US honda?

You think you can get 525,000 miles out of a
honda 4cyl? Maybe but we have that many miles on a chevy 5.3
in my buddys silverado,all dyno oil too..go figure

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR

I may get into trouble by saying this: Honda engines designed by Japanese engineer and manufactured in Japan is more reliable than the ones in US.

You mean like the Subaru EJ engine? Plagued with HG leaks for its 15 year life and plug tub leaking gaskets forever, Timing Belt design that destroys engines...alt built and designed in Japan.

Not a USA homer but Camry's and other models built in the U.S. have been shown to be superior to those built in Japan. And Camry's built by Subaru in Indiana have also been known go be better.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: Excel
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: Excel
Originally Posted By: rrounds
If your not happy with the 0/20, throw in M1 0/30 next time or 10/30 and do a couple of runs with that oil. Its not like you live where you need a 0 weight oil.

ROD


Warranty would be voided,I believe a little thicker oil offers more protection and better engine durability,but im not a honda expert
we certainly run thick stuff in our race engines


Your warranty would not be voided. They would have to try very hard to deny replacement of anything due to an (unlikely) oil-related failure.

Again, is the intake stock? How did you verify it was tight?


car is bone stock,only has one clamp and 2 small screws to the TB all are snug


Have you removed the clamp to check for tearing? I had some wonky fuel trims that ended up being an OVER-tightened clamp to the turbo inlet. You would never know from outward appearances, except for the bit of oil in the area, I guess. Anyway, As soon as the clamp was removed, it was obvious.

 

[Blinker]

Oh lord here we go again with the U.S. vs Japanese bashing again...

I would just check the air filter seal. The filter in my car is hard to put in correctly because of the way the air box is located. FRAM recently redesigned my air filter and gave it a rubber frame so it is flexible and will fit into the air box easier, made all the difference in world compared to the plastic framed filters. AFAIK for my veh,FRAM is the only manufacturer that has the rubber framed air filter.

 

[hal]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: 90crvtec
These Honda engines will pretty much run on anything. So if you wanted to try 5w30 or even 10w30 I don't think you'd harm anything. But I also don't think there's a reason to do that yet, I'd stay with either 0w20 or 5w20 and see what happens with a few more miles.

I may get into trouble by saying this: Honda engines designed by Japanese engineer and manufactured in Japan is more reliable than the ones in US.


I totally agree with this. When Honda started making their drivetrains in the USA (for USA market) the transmissions especially were a lot less reliable. I ended up buying a transmission from a Japanese accord euro-R for my 98 accord....it is an all-around better unit in the way it feels when it shifts....and has lasted over 200,000 miles now (325k on vehicle).

Hey BTW be sure and check carefully for any splits in the intake hoses, PCV valve lines, any vacuum lines, etc...sometimes they can be really hard to spot.