2013 Ram 1500 4.7 8048kms 0w-20 Royal purple

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This is the next oil sample I took for my truck. I originally had amsoil and now is Royal purple 0w-20 with 8048kms on the oil and the oil life indicator says 41%.

The truck has total mileage of 44,781 kms as at the time of sampling.

Here is the link from the previous analysis.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4826154/1

Here is the analysis. There is less iron but sodium is higher. Not sure why. No other coolant components in the oil.

I still have to go on a road trip and put a couple thousand kms on her.

What are your thoughts? What about the oxidation? Not sure what that means?

40263A34-7609-4C4E-ABA1-3C116CBC17A0.jpeg
 
I would be concerned with that Iron and copper that something is going on in that engine. My Dodge's UOA with similar mileage run with 5w20 Amsoil.

[Linked Image]


The 5w20 and the 0w20 are similar oils if you look at the specs on Amsoil's site.
 
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Royal Purple has used sodium in the past, similar to the previous generation Valvoline full syn oil, so that might be where the sodium is from. Is the Royal Purple 0w20 you used rated to dexos1 Gen2 ? If so, then it does NOT have sodium in it, since sodium is anathema to LSPI. ... If its the old Royal Purple (or maybe they never updated it & its current), then sodium is likely being used, which is good news for your engine.

That engine does have something wrong with it. No way you can generate that much iron without some impossible-to-find thing being wrong. Nothing you do about this until when and if something fails.
 
X3 on the Iron. Seems pretty high, IMO, for such a relatively low amount of kms.

It sounds like my OLM is very similar to your's. I am roughly 50/50 mix of hwy/city.
 
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Royal Purple has used sodium in the past, similar to the previous generation Valvoline full syn oil, so that might be where the sodium is from. Is the Royal Purple 0w20 you used rated to dexos1 Gen2 ? If so, then it does NOT have sodium in it, since sodium is anathema to LSPI. ... If its the old Royal Purple (or maybe they never updated it & its current), then sodium is likely being used, which is good news for your engine.

That engine does have something wrong with it. No way you can generate that much iron without some impossible-to-find thing being wrong. Nothing you do about this until when and if something fails.


It's not dexos but the old formula I believe. Just SAE API?

It wouldn't be the fact that I'm using 0w-20 vs 5 w-20?
 
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Originally Posted by Gixxer46
It wouldn't be the fact that I'm using 0w-20 vs 5 w-20?

Technically, the 0w-20 versus a 5w-20 should have nothing to do with your issues. As an aside, Mobil, for one, states that 0w-20 can be used wherever 5w-20 is specified (and 0w-30 for 5w-30, that sort of thing) and GM, for their part, has just gone to 0w-20 instead of 5w-20, to the point of eliminating AC Delco dexos1 5w-20.

Now, it's obviously exceedingly difficult to diagnose anything by UOA alone, especially with just one bad result, but your numbers are cause for concern. Sodium is high, and probably the API RP itself. As oil_film_movies indicates, there's really not a heck of a lot you can do, other than to wait around, which, I admit, isn't going to be easy.

On the other hand, 44000 odd kilometres isn't exactly a lot. What has it had, so far, four oil changes since new? That should be getting most of the break in and assembly material out by now, but you never know, given that some vehicles can leave a sizeable volume of oil behind on an oil change.

The copper number isn't something I'd concern myself with yet. The oxidation really shouldn't be considered without a VOA of the oil in question.
 
I would try a 0W30 or a 5W30 and see if that helps any. Have you pressure tested the cooling system? Just to be 100% certain there are no problems brewing with the cooling system.
 
Originally Posted by Gixxer46
It wouldn't be the fact that I'm using 0w-20 vs 5 w-20?
The oil is definitely not the problem. Something in the cams, timing chain, rings, or cylinders, something inside isn't wearing properly and you're getting extra iron in the oil. Still, the engine might last for a long time, as the wear could subside with rough edges being worn down somewhere. Hard to guess. Nothing you can do. .... Except I'd go ahead and use a high-moly high performance oil like Schaeffer's Supreme 9000â„¢ Full Synthetic in a 5w30 or Redline 0w20. The extra moly might fill some rough areas a bit.
Originally Posted by Garak
Now, it's obviously exceedingly difficult to diagnose anything by UOA alone, especially with just one bad result, but your numbers are cause for concern.
There were 2 runs with high wear.
 
Additional note, Schaeffer's Supreme 9000â„¢ Full Synthetic 5w30, in addition to a lot of FM moly, also uniquely has some EP/AW antimony which might help avoid scuffing wear better than some oils. Hard to say if any "special" oil like this would work to lower the iron numbers in a case like this. Its easy enough to just try though.
 
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
There were 2 runs with high wear.

That's why I was wondering about how many oil changes have been done on the vehicle since new, and how much residual oil might be left behind.
 
I would thicken things up to a 5/30 as well just to rule out the Royal Purple not holding up. I only ran it once in my B6 S4, and noticed the lifter/tensioner rattle was much more pronounced as opposed to the typical 0/40 or BMW 5/30 I had collected at the time when I was at the dealer, I had an oil saver on my box and a 50 lift shop was by the quart, so we accumulated tons of oil leftover in the jugs.
 
That's what I thought. The lab said I could use the oil for another few thousand kms but I didn't want to chance it.
 
Originally Posted by Garak
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
There were 2 runs with high wear.

That's why I was wondering about how many oil changes have been done on the vehicle since new, and how much residual oil might be left behind.

Three oil changes were done since before I took possession.
 
That's not a lot of oil changes. One would think that all the break in materials would be mostly gone, but one never knows. I wonder how much residual oil this thing holds? Is there anything in the manual or other service literature with respect to dry fill versus an oil and filter change?
 
I would have thought the wear metals would have been out by now too. The iron would be my major concern. Sodium as stated could be from the add pack. As a few of us already mentioned to give a 0W30 or 5W30 a try and see what happens.
 
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