2013 GMC Yukon XL Denali with 6.2L installed - purchase advice

Oct 16, 2003
Northern Virginia
Looking at this 2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL. 180K miles, the seller first said the engine is new and installed a year, upon digging through their paperwork turns out the 6.2L engine was dealer-installed closer to 4 years ago and has 45K miles on it. Anyway.
The asking price was first 17K, then the seller lowered it to 15K, opinions? I am thinking offering 14K for it. Is that in line with what Yukon XL's with Denali package sell for? I specifically want the XL Denali as that gets me the Suburban dimensions and 6.2L motor.

There are some dings here and there, nothing significant, consistent with a ten year old vehicle.
How much is a vehicle like this worth, 180K on the body except 45K on the engine? Clearly it's not a 45K vehicle but it's not a 180K mile vehicle either. As the engine is the main component of the whole thing. I hear that installing a new 6.2L is a 8-10K proposition. But then I am not getting a new 6.2L, so maybe value it at a half-price? Say, a normal price for a 180K Yukon is 8K (at the lowest), plus 5K for the lower mileage motor means it's a 13K vehicle?

Biggest issue is-new ones are somewhere north of $100K now... The 6.2 LS is a great engine, but the rest of the drive train & vehicle would need to be PERFECT for me to drop $14K on it.
Lots of turning wheels on this ride. I suppose you can put value into a newer motor but you cant forget the rest of it has 180k miles. These v8 engines seem to last a while though. 14k is too much in my opinion and these new post covid prices that raised used vehicle prices b/c there were no new ones being made didn't help us.

Can you wait any longer to try & hold off until the used market settles down some more or keep searching?
I see your point. What would be a fair price for this one? I don't think it's ever going to 9-10K again. Due not so much to covid/supply issues but just to pure inflation, IMO. I think next year it will be even more. Initially I was excited because he said the motor was installed a year ago and the paperwork says spring of 2019.
Unless we have an economic crash and people will start dumping stuff at pre-covid prices. SUVs, motorcycles, stuff like that.
I have a 2008 Tahoe on its last legs and a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer with 188K miles in pretty good shape with a newer tranny. I suppose I can make these two last, but I want that Yukon, just do not want to overpay for it like it's the last auto on the planet.
I don't want to go into the next generation, 2015+, not just for crazy prices but also due to 8-speed tranny not being reliable. But mainly prices are nuts. 25-30K for 2016 which is basically the same thing. In that context, $13-15K for 2013 does not sound so nuts.
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Probably not disabled, 180K on a factory 6L80E torque converter clutch is a pretty good run with active AFM.....That would be the next thing to go.

If you want it....Buy it, Doesn't matter what we think!

While I'm picking on it.....If I was to ask top dollar for a vehicle.....I'd at least replace the missing lug cover/center cap on the left front wheel.
My boss has one with 218k on it. engine failed (replaced) at 150k. air springs just replaced for not a small amount of money. Lots of squeaks and rattles at this point but it still feels solid. Dash is cracked all the way across and the paint turned to alligator skin on the hood, needing a repaint. These are big vehicles, 6.2L is reasonably efficient, but when we’ve switched cars I’ve not gotten much better than maybe 15mpg in it. When working on these, nothing is small and easy to get to. He’s had 3 Yukon XLs before this one and they have all made it to around 250k ok, but then started becoming needier.
Why, the dreaded lifter destroying camshaft issue due to AFM?

A dealer will almost always opt for engine replacement when it's customer pay....No manufacturer forcing you to do internal engine repairs.

The most common cause of a lifter destroying a Camshaft on Gen IV LSx engine is the Lifter spinning in its bore from a failed Lifter Guide, AFM Lifters use a not as robust method to locate the lifter compared to Non-AFM Lifters. Though it can also happen to Non-AFM Lifters.

Actual Roller failure happens, Spalling of the Roller face....Leads to the Roller locking up. This is rare on Gen III & IV engines.

The Locking Mechanism in the AFM Lifter sticking leading to a stuck-collapsed Lifter, These can be unstuck & AFM turned off & be okay for a while.

While turning the AFM off via tuning software is great & should be your first step.....AFM hardware delete is best!

If this engine only has 45,000 miles....Replace the Exhaust Manifold bolts one at a time with ARP 134-1102.
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Maybe you can find a 07-08 w/6.2L. They did not have AFM/DOD hardware. The exception = 6.2 built before 4/1/2006. They do have the hardware, but it's deactivated in the software. If the valley cover is smooth? no hardware. Also look at the sticker on the driverside door jam for build date.
In the current market, that does not sound over-priced. Even if you allow for a new transmission soon, you are still under $20k…hard to find good stuff at that price range, sadly.
From a distance, it looks really nice, like that colour!