2013 Accord M1 Annual Protection 5w/20

[Scout1]

Just got this back from Blackstone - 2013 Honda Accord with the 2.4 and CVT, I'm the original owner, wife put most of the miles on it communing in pretty heavy traffic although more recently I've had the car and done mostly short tripping with just occasional longer drives. Seems to look pretty good in terms of wear and not too much fuel dilution from this direct injected engine... This is some of the AP oil I got on last year's Autozone sale. Since there isn't much fuel showing, wonder why the flashpoint is kinda low?

 

[4WD]

Nice

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Probably the best AP UOA I've seen. But my Toyota gives me that good of wear metals with a $22.88 Rollback regular Mobil one at 6K . For using the most expensive Mobil 1 I'd have been going more miles on that oil.
I would be looking at 7500 miles as a minimum with that oil and then did a UOA. Very good silicon numbers too.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Looks reasonable

Hope you left the oil in. 4500 miles is a short OCI for a bargain "conventional"

Insol looks marginally high. What filter?

 

[4WD]

True … not sure if the AP was changed or just tested ?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

The O.P. Header not conforming. I think there is a sticky on headers for a good search result.

 

[buster]

Nice results.

 

[Scout1]

I confess, I'm not an extended oil change believer, especially as cheap as I buy this premium oil ($2 per Qt). I used to go far shorter so 4500 is actually reformed for me

At any rate, yes, I did change the oil and now have some PP 10w30 in there. So I'm sure I'll incur the wrath of the thinnies and the praise of the thickies for that! I'm using the Napa Gold filters since I get them cheap at their sales each year.

In particular, on this 2013 Accord DI engine, I was concerned about all the fuel dilution stories going around but it seems this car doesn't suffer from that, at least the way I drive it. I'll admit, I did take it for a nice long drive a couple of days before this sample was pulled so it may look better than it is, not sure.

As for the 10w30, I have a lot of it in my stash and my logic on using it here is the engine doesn't have hydraulic lifters so it should be less sensitive to quick build up of oil pressure of a thicker oil. Also, in Seattle we have pretty mild winter weather so I'll probably not be starting in any sub-zero temps on this run. (The "Blob" is back so the winter should be warmer than usual...)

 

[bullwinkle]

Without TBN it's hard to tell if this oil could have gone longer or not-I have some AP from the AAP clearance myself, I may run a fairly short OCI of it & try a year (which would be roughly 10K) on the xB & see if AP 5W30 is any better (or worse) than the M1 EP 5W30 I've been using. Everything I've seen on AP leads me to believe it is/was a marketing exercise & no panacea.

 

[Mad_Hatter]

You do have some fuel in the oil, not all that rare and not much, but could be enough to lower the FP just slightly. Honestly, I wouldn't lose sleep over that. You're still in grade and that's what matters. Would have been nice to see the TBN but meh, not a biggie.

This is normally an expensive lube to be running just 4500 miles, did you get a good deal on it? Not my business to dictate how you spend your cash but a dino/syn blend will do 4.5k easily at a fraction of the cost... just food for thought....

Otherwise... nice and "boring" report, but we like that, right??ðŸ‘

 

[Scout1]

Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter


This is normally an expensive lube to be running just 4500 miles, did you get a good deal on it? Not my business to dictate how you spend your cash but a dino/syn blend will do 4.5k easily at a fraction of the cost... just food for thought....



Just $2/Qt. so it's cheap to me! Most of my stash is this sort of premium oil since for the last three years I've hit the Autozone year end clearance and stocked up on some pretty nice stuff!

 

[Mad_Hatter]

Originally Posted by Scout1
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter


This is normally an expensive lube to be running just 4500 miles, did you get a good deal on it? Not my business to dictate how you spend your cash but a dino/syn blend will do 4.5k easily at a fraction of the cost... just food for thought....



Just $2/Qt. so it's cheap to me! Most of my stash is this sort of premium oil since for the last three years I've hit the Autozone year end clearance and stocked up on some pretty nice stuff!

For just $2 bucks I also wouldn't lose sleep over it doing just a 4500 oci... great score!ðŸ‘

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by Scout1
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter


This is normally an expensive lube to be running just 4500 miles, did you get a good deal on it? Not my business to dictate how you spend your cash but a dino/syn blend will do 4.5k easily at a fraction of the cost... just food for thought....



Just $2/Qt. so it's cheap to me! Most of my stash is this sort of premium oil since for the last three years I've hit the Autozone year end clearance and stocked up on some pretty nice stuff!

You are wearing the engine by overchanging the oil with Ep oils. And wasting material and oils and doing environmental harm. Multiply this practice by 50 million then you'll see the impact.

So lets see a 7K OCI at least next time.

 

[CT8]

The oil kept the parts seperated, the wear numbers are normal enough. For the oil costing a third more that the low end M1 oils you would guess the AP would keep the parts a third more seperated.

 

[Danh]

The same DI engine in my CRV posts essentially the same wear metal results with the same use interval using Mobil1 AFE 0w-20. But the used oil's viscosity is consistently about 1 cSt lower despite starting at about the same level. Of course, reduced viscosity can result from both fuel dilution and shearing.

Given this engine's tendency to have some fuel dilution could the remaining difference have something to do with the oil itself? In other words, could AP be more shear resistant than AFE and is 5w-20 a better choice than 0w-20? Just musing...

 

[Scout1]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Scout1
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter


This is normally an expensive lube to be running just 4500 miles, did you get a good deal on it? Not my business to dictate how you spend your cash but a dino/syn blend will do 4.5k easily at a fraction of the cost... just food for thought....



Just $2/Qt. so it's cheap to me! Most of my stash is this sort of premium oil since for the last three years I've hit the Autozone year end clearance and stocked up on some pretty nice stuff!

You are wearing the engine by overchanging the oil with Ep oils. And wasting material and oils and doing environmental harm. Multiply this practice by 50 million then you'll see the impact.

So lets see a 7K OCI at least next time.


Yeah, but look at how clean my valve cover pics have been - no varnish at all!!! And I know you can go longer and yeah, I feel a little guilty for not "using up" my oil but my philosophy is to use up as much of the planet as I can and leave a charred burned out hulk for my grand kids!

Just kidding for sure! In all seriousness, when I think about caring for my cars, I do put some extra in them that keeps them in exceptional shape. For instance, I do trans drain and fills far more often than most since my belief is that is the best way to give them a long life. I feel the same about motor oil, I could go longer but since I don't know exactly how long, I tend to change early rather than late. My son on the other hand, follows his maintenance minder on his 2009 Odyssey which takes him out to about 7500 miles. Unfortunately, I now hear what sounds like a slight rod knock... who knows, maybe 7500 is a bit long for that V6?

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by Scout1
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Scout1
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter


This is normally an expensive lube to be running just 4500 miles, did you get a good deal on it? Not my business to dictate how you spend your cash but a dino/syn blend will do 4.5k easily at a fraction of the cost... just food for thought....



Just $2/Qt. so it's cheap to me! Most of my stash is this sort of premium oil since for the last three years I've hit the Autozone year end clearance and stocked up on some pretty nice stuff!

You are wearing the engine by overchanging the oil with Ep oils. And wasting material and oils and doing environmental harm. Multiply this practice by 50 million then you'll see the impact.

So lets see a 7K OCI at least next time.


Yeah, but look at how clean my valve cover pics have been - no varnish at all!!! And I know you can go longer and yeah, I feel a little guilty for not "using up" my oil but my philosophy is to use up as much of the planet as I can and leave a charred burned out hulk for my grand kids!

Just kidding for sure! In all seriousness, when I think about caring for my cars, I do put some extra in them that keeps them in exceptional shape. For instance, I do trans drain and fills far more often than most since my belief is that is the best way to give them a long life. I feel the same about motor oil, I could go longer but since I don't know exactly how long, I tend to change early rather than late. My son on the other hand, follows his maintenance minder on his 2009 Odyssey which takes him out to about 7500 miles. Unfortunately, I now hear what sounds like a slight rod knock... who knows, maybe 7500 is a bit long for that V6?

Be careful what you say about following the MM and an engine knock. That can start WW-III here. j/k

It would be interesting to know the source of the sound, and what part that might have failed, along with the miles, info on the oil and grade used, the filter, etc. You might be onto something with the possible cause. Trav had posted pics of Odyssey van engines [that vintage] he worked on, and stated the OCI was possibly the cause due to the varnish and sludge that had accumulated in engines that were maintained according to the mfg. recommendations.

 

[Scout1]

The van has about 150k miles on it and my son got it at 100k. We've been using M1 AFE of both the 0w20 and more recently (since we started hearing the knock) of the 0w30 variety. So we're not sure how good the maintenance was for the first 100k. When we got it, we had the timing belt replaced at 105k and the valves adjusted at that time (along with water pump, etc). But since I had it done, I didn't get to see it with the valve covers off so not sure how much varnish is in there. Although it doesn't sound like a valve tap to me, it's possible the mechanic left one too loose and that's what I'm hearing... not sure. For now, we're just waiting and monitoring it to see if it gets any worse. And yes, he's sticking with the MM for OCI.

And of course I drained the trans a couple of times when we got it. So far, the van has performed flawlessly. Good rig for my son and his family of now 3 kids!

 

[Fotoflame]

You are wearing the engine by overchanging the oil with Ep oils. And wasting material and oils and doing environmental harm. Multiply this practice by 50 million then you'll see the impact.


Is wearing the engine by overchanging the oil a thing to be concerned about? Could someone explain or reference a post to read so I understand?