Source of the timing chain and cam adjuster problems...
Translated from Russian website
gesha from; https://www.benzclub.ru/forum/showpo...postcount=1026
checking the ventilation valve at partial loads -
checking the software -
checking the thermostat -
changing oil with a viscosity of 5W50 from tolerance sheet 229.3
sranjesuper from; https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post7536221
"And here is the best part, which is why THE CHAINS FAIL. Which is what nobody has mentioned yet.
The vacuum hose underneath the intake, that routes PCV gases from the crank case to your intake.
Mine was not only blocked, causing the gases and fuel vapours to REMAIN in the crankcase mixed with OIL, but it also had a hole in the vacuum tube itself, near the intake side, causing about 15% loss of power and and boost. So basically with a blocked PCV, you have extra gas that's running down your cylinder walls, mixing with your engine oil that is supposed to lubricate your chain. Gas eats the oils lubricating properties, and your chain slowly grinds away.
During those few weeks that i drove, not knowing why my car feels slow, i noticed more CHAIN RATTLE during start ups. I was determinted to find this issue and believe it was a boost leak. I took my air filter housing off, and looked through a opening in the intake manifold, and saw a tube, that was covered in oil. So I knew oil was coming from somewhere and i saw also a small tiny pinhole in the vacuum tube itself, confirming where my boost leak is coming from. Once i took out the vacuum tube, i tried shaking it, to hear if the PCV valve is moving inside.. Nope, it was stuck...
As soon as i fixed this vacuum tube, which was also something like $170 CDN for a piece of plastic tube and a valve , and did my oil change, my car doesn't have a rattle anymore, and got my full boost back.. So hopefully my chain will not have this issue, unless i already damaged it a bit...."
So on my 2012 SLK250
Oil smells of gasoline.
Updated software on fuel pump in the tank.
Previously changed the thermostat, I will have to measure temperature again.
Had a rattle noise that went away, after replacing oil, currently running 5W-40 Liqui Molly, which is MB 229.5
So today I decided to check crankcase vent, simple procedure is disconnect 90 degree rubber elbow at throttle and see is there is flow out but not in. (Suck and blow)
Clogged solid, all the problems with chains and cam adjuster, because of 271-018-07-29 valve, which is $23.00 (Amazon)
People on the Russian forum are keeping a spare valve and changing it out at each oil change. The valve is bolted to the engine just about the left engine mount. I maybe able to remove from the bottom ??? Today I removed with the intake manifold...
One person commented that a new valve clogged solid by the third oil change.