2011 xc60

[The Critic]

That's really odd considering the 2021 Highlander requires new plugs at 60k as per the manual, Honda Pilot requires them at 105k. The Highlander requires a new brake booster at 120k miles as per the manual, Honda Pilot needs it when it breaks. I guess my experience is much different than yours. My experience is Toyota is very maintenance heavy when compared to Honda. I do like the Highlander better than the current gen Pilot though.

Pilot will require a timing belt package and valve adjustment at 100K. Possibly 1 motor mount at the same time. It will also require all driveline fluids at least every 30K, Toyota is lifetime for this item (or 60-100K if you really want to do them).

Honda's are easier to work on though, I'll give them that.

 

[RooflessVW]

That's really odd considering the 2021 Highlander requires new plugs at 60k as per the manual, Honda Pilot requires them at 105k. The Highlander requires a new brake booster at 120k miles as per the manual, Honda Pilot needs it when it breaks. I guess my experience is much different than yours. My experience is Toyota is very maintenance heavy when compared to Honda. I do like the Highlander better than the current gen Pilot though.

Yeah the Pilot needs plugs at 105k.

...and a valve adjustment.

...and a timing belt.

 

[The Critic]

Yeah the Pilot needs plugs at 105k.

...and a valve adjustment.

...and a timing belt.

$2000-2500 market price around here.

Plus $400 for the driveline fluid changes every 25-30K per the Maintenance Minder, $200 for a brake flush every 3 years (Toyota doesn't require this). If you have the ZF trans, the driveline fluid changes are $6-$700.

 

[Coastie05]

So Toyota doesn’t require changing brake fluid (which absorbs moisture in the air) and the “lifetime” trans fluid is really a fluid that will keep a trans alive for 200k miles? I don’t believe that any fluid is a true “lifetime” fluid. You got me in the water pump and timing belt. That’s $1,400 on my area which is cheaper than that brake booster replacement. As for following the MM, those fluid changes don’t come up until 55-60k miles.

OP, one of the reservists that drills at my unit is a Volvo mechanic in VA Beach. After talking to him and heading his advice, I would run away from a Volvo product.

 

[RooflessVW]

So Toyota doesn’t require changing brake fluid (which absorbs moisture in the air) and the “lifetime” trans fluid is really a fluid that will keep a trans alive for 200k miles? I don’t believe that any fluid is a true “lifetime” fluid. You got me in the water pump and timing belt. That’s $1,400 on my area which is cheaper than that brake booster replacement. As for following the MM, those fluid changes don’t come up until 55-60k miles.

OP, one of the reservists that drills at my unit is a Volvo mechanic in VA Beach. After talking to him and heading his advice, I would run away from a Volvo product.

Mechanics only see broken cars.

If he's a Volvo mechanic, he's only seeing broken Volvos.

 

[Coastie05]

Mechanics only see broken cars.

If he's a Volvo mechanic, he's only seeing broken Volvos.

Totally agree with that statement. It’s the costs associated with repairs and maintenance that is the big problem. For instance replacing a window actuator on a Toyota, Honda, GM etc is plug and play. However, on a Volvo is requires hooking up a computer to set the new actuator. On top of that an actuator for a Volvo is double the cost of the other brands.

 

[Astro14]

Volvos are total ****boxes. I make too much money fixing them to recommend someone buy one

I’m going to disagree.

Volvo owners tend to be neglectful, non car people. They ignore problems until major damage is done and then cry over the price to fix.

Volvos themselves are durable, reliable cars with great build quality.

My wife’s XC is nearing 300,000 miles with great paint, nice interior and like-new performance.

Volvo makes a good car, but they’re often neglected. Be very picky getting a used one.

If you find a good one, you’ll be rewarded with a great vehicle.

 

[Oillover]

Here is something that I found very interesting and another area to consider when buying a VOLVO. INSURANCE COST !

*Now this may only be slightly higher than other vehicles but, according to a local insurance agent I spoke with, Swedish vehicles are more costly due to so many(even if not all) parts coming from Sweden ONLY. Although this agent said, "EVERYTHING" comes from Sweden. And I'm sure there is more to it than that.

When I was at a local AARP Driver Safety Course, on our 2nd day, this particular agent from a local Liberty Mutual office came to our meeting and had a Q&A session and the end of the course.

I asked:
1) "If it is ONLY insurance premiums that we Senior's are concerned about(not vehicle reliability/reputation), what vehicles should we be buying"?
And the Liberty Mutual team member response was to buy domestic vehicles mainly from GM and namely Chevrolet...but other domestic vehicles also.

2) I then asked:
"Then what vehicles should we be staying away from"?
And the response was Swedish and Korean vehicles.

Now, this agent didn't say that the difference in premium cost was HUGE, only that they're higher.

I can agree with this.

After sitting at a reputable body shop for over 2 months, my father's 2005 S60 was recently totaled off by insurance for what should have been an relatively simple job.
The insurance company didn't want to write it off, but parts were unattainable for a reasonable cost/timeframe from Volvo.

 

[Oillover]

Totally agree with that statement. It’s the costs associated with repairs and maintenance that is the big problem. For instance replacing a window actuator on a Toyota, Honda, GM etc is plug and play. However, on a Volvo is requires hooking up a computer to set the new actuator. On top of that an actuator for a Volvo is double the cost of the other brands.

Not to mention the software license subscription to connect the computer to the car (VIDA I beleive) is also not cheap.

 

[mjk1967]

Pilot will require a timing belt package and valve adjustment at 100K. Possibly 1 motor mount at the same time. It will also require all driveline fluids at least every 30K, Toyota is lifetime for this item (or 60-100K if you really want to do them).

Honda's are easier to work on though, I'll give them that.

Just did tranny flush on 2011 Avalon. Mechanic said save your money, I said no.
Savvy enough to not judge by color, but did wink and said "I told you". 214k on original fluid

Just finally made a purchase. 2010 Rx350. 150k. All Lexus dealer records, till 2nd owner. Then maintained at a local Shop.
Newer RT43s, 2 new front struts. Only thing I couldn't ascertain were plugs...but can't imagine they are original

 

[Timmastertech]

I’m going to disagree.

Volvo owners tend to be neglectful, non car people. They ignore problems until major damage is done and then cry over the price to fix.

Volvos themselves are durable, reliable cars with great build quality.

My wife’s XC is nearing 300,000 miles with great paint, nice interior and like-new performance.

Volvo makes a good car, but they’re often neglected. Be very picky getting a used one.

If you find a good one, you’ll be rewarded with a great vehicle.

I do more major component replacement on Volvo than every other car line I service combined, maintained or not, and VOlvo isnt anywhere near the top of the list as far as most common makes coming through the door

 

[Astro14]

I do more major component replacement on Volvo than every other car line I service combined, maintained or not, and VOlvo isnt anywhere near the top of the list as far as most common makes coming through the door

And with four of them, I haven’t. All four have original engines, turbos, transmissions. Haven’t even done a wheel hub.

They don’t rust as easily as most makes. Certainly more resistant than Toyota or GM.

Paint and interiors are excellent quality.

Great brakes. Good engines. Strong structure. Good features. Outstanding seats and comfort.

You won’t be seeing any of mine in your shop. I take care of them. Even have my own VIDA set up.

I’d rather buy a good used Volvo than just about any new car on the market.

In fact, I did just that last fall. Bought a V70R with the six speed manual. Manual trans. Brembo four piston brake package. Room for gear.

You can’t beat a Volvo.

 

[The Critic]

And with four of them, I haven’t. All four have original engines, turbos, transmissions. Haven’t even done a wheel hub.

They don’t rust as easily as most makes. Certainly more resistant than Toyota or GM.

Paint and interiors are excellent quality.

Great brakes. Good engines. Strong structure. Good features. Outstanding seats and comfort.

You won’t be seeing any of mine in your shop. I take care of them. Even have my own VIDA set up.

I’d rather buy a good used Volvo than just about any new car on the market.

In fact, I did just that last fall. Bought a V70R with the six speed manual. Manual trans. Brembo four piston brake package. Room for gear.

You can’t beat a Volvo.

Your experience is based on Volvo’s from ~15 years ago. Are your statements still accurate and relevant for the more recent models, like the ones from the last 5 years?

 

[meep]

Good points. I bought my 3 Volvos cheap, with varying levels of neglect. Once they start to have issues, dealer rates are expensive. They were fine as a diy, but their electronics does require a level up in diy. after repairs, all of @Astro14’s experiences I can endorse personally. However, like @critic‘s question, that’s a solid point. All of mine were 2009 and earlier.

i have test driven have a dozen Gen2 s60s and they are remarkably different under the hood in every way - a totally different design language and parts bin thing happening, and the driving dynamics were totally different - felt like a front-heavy accord without honda’s NVH dampers, and didn’t have the stiffness and corner carving as the last Gen. It felt like an appliance, but with the same great seats. As much as I wanted a new s60, I gave up on them.

i keep hoping maybe the latest Gen 3 s60 will return to previous Volvo qualities, but I’m not holding my breath - went with a small used Lexus, might consider a used bimmer at some point.

 

[Ignatius]

I loved the XC60 when it first hit the market and for several years afterwards. I've been very concerned about the fact of Chinese involvement with the Volvo brand in recent years and can't say that I would be all that interested in a Chinese Volvo product. I would agree that pre-China Volvo was excellent.

 

[PWMDMD]

Had a 2011 Volvo XC-60 R-Design. I really liked the I-6 engine/transmission combination. Solid vehicle while I owned it with no issues other than it ate the OEM tires really quickly.

 

[CKN]

Nobody wants an old Volvo. Probably the OP doesn't have to put up with the current nonsense in the used car market to obtain it.

 

[Astro14]

Your experience is based on Volvo’s from ~15 years ago. Are your statements still accurate and relevant for the more recent models, like the ones from the last 5 years?

Good point. No idea. The P2 platform is solid.

Needs control arm bushings pretty often. Needs a good oil.

But they hold up well.

 

[2EHA]

3.2 engine bay is 900 pounds of stuff in a 1 pound bag. These things are bland and not enjoyable to work on, but you could do worse.

Volvo is very good at doing some things, and luckily for you Ford got all their major and important tech.

 

[The Critic]

So Toyota doesn’t require changing brake fluid (which absorbs moisture in the air) and the “lifetime” trans fluid is really a fluid that will keep a trans alive for 200k miles? I don’t believe that any fluid is a true “lifetime” fluid. You got me in the water pump and timing belt. That’s $1,400 on my area which is cheaper than that brake booster replacement. As for following the MM, those fluid changes don’t come up until 55-60k miles.

Brake fluid isn't as hygroscopic as folks like to believe. Systems are fairly well-sealed nowadays. If you test the fluid for moisture after a few years, you may be surprised to find that most of them test perfectly fine. OEM's are probably more concerned about the gradual degradation of the corrosion inhibitors, though. My suspicion is that some brake fluids fare better than others in this area, and perhaps the fluid that Toyota uses does pretty well in this area.

Also, Toyota has been on the WS bandwagon for over 15 years and their trans failure rate is extremely low, even with the lifetime fill.