2011 Malibu transmission bypass filter

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Hey y'all, I'm new here. Been watching and reading these forums for a good while now and decided to become a member to both contribute, and try to learn more. Thanks for having me and I look forward to learning as much as I can. On to the topic.

My wife has a 2011 Chevy Malibu 2.4 with a 6 speed automatic. As some of you may know, these transmission filters are unable to be changed. I say unable to be changed because you have to take the tranny out and basically do a partial rebuild in order to change the filter. That's just not happening. I just completely changed her fluid last weekend by tapping into the cooler line with a compression T. The fluid that came out was pure black. I have never seen transmission fluid with just 81k miles on it come out that black. We purchased it used, otherwise it would have been changed MUCH sooner, especially with knowing that the filter is as close to useless as you can get. I changed the fluid over to valvoline maxlife, which seems to be highly regarded here. After seeing the fluid in as bad of shape as it was, I want to prevent that from happening again. I realize changing it more often will help and probably suit my needs, but these transmissions are known to fail, so I'd like to keep that from happening. I've been researching here what others are doing about a bypass transmission filter coming off the transmission going to the cooler. I would like to use the derale filter head kit and plumb into the "hot line" of the transmission, use a magnafine prefilter, and use the Baldwin B2-HPG filter. Has anyone used this filter in this application? Is there a better filter to use? I've heard this filter is pretty well regarded also, but I'm just curious if I could find a better filter without restricting flow. If anyone has any suggestions or tips, I would highly appreciate it. Thanks fellers!
 
The main thing is you refreshed the ATF and got some suspended wear materials out. Fact still remains though that the color of the fluid doesn't mean much. It will still turn dark with extra filters added or not. I'm with you in that I feel better when it looks more like factory fluid. Atleast I know it's been changed/refreshed.
 
Do you have any shift issues? See if you can borrow / rent a OBDII scanner that can read tranny codes and see what you find.

It's really sad in this day and age that ATF turns black so quickly, I ran 15 yrs / 200,000 miles on Chryco A727 tranny and it was still
pink, dropped the pan to do a low and reverse band adjustment, swap the filter and clean the pan magnet back in the 80's!

Key comment earlier is "suspended wear materials"...so true, filters can't take any of that out since those particles are under 5 micron
is size and most filters are only 50% efficient at 20 microns! So fluid change at 50K miles would be better for you.


Good luck bro!
 
No shifting issues or anything, would just like to keep the fluid S clean as I possibly can for as long as I can. I'd prefer to not have the tranny take a dump due to anything foreign floating in the fluid lol. I'm paranoid but I like to overmaintain. Just how I was raised. 😂
 
I just installed a Derale spin on oil filter in the transmission line, after having installed a cooler last year when I flushed the fluid totally. Next I am going to add a sandwich adapter to the Derale remote mount, and add either a Baldwin bypass filter, or a Frantz {I have both}. The vehicle is a 2003 Toyota 4Runner with a 4.0 v6 with 208K miles- tranny fluid out was cherry red at 192K, but previous owner had it serviced at some point.
 
So you're going to be running 2 filters? I'd like to at least run one and hopefully it might help prolong the life of the transmission. Why do you plan on running 2?
 
The full flow filter filters down to the 20 micron range, while the bypass filter filters to sub 1 micron on the Frantz and slightly higher on the Baldwin spin on.
 
You should be fine with a pan drop, filter change, transmission cooler and remote spin on filter-then you can forget about the pan filter change ever again.
I'm installing a Honda inline filter on my 2017 8,500. mi. RAV4 (36K factory and 200K mi. dealer powertrain warranty) and on my 12,500 mi.2016 Nissan NV2500 V-6 (100K mi. bumper to bumper warranty).
 
On the Malibu you can't drop the pan and change the filter. A filter change involves taking the transmission out and taking it apart. If I remember correctly I think the book called for 13 hours to change the filter. Lol. Not happening. That's my whole idea of putting a spin on filter into play. But, with doing a full flow filter, and then using something like a frantz, it won't restrict flow enough to make a difference? And how would you run both filters at once? One right after the other? Or would the first filter (Baldwin in my case) be inline with the cooler line, and then say a frantz with better filtration be where? Curious to hear back from you.
 
Ok, so you guys got me thinking more...

Would using the derale kit, with a 1-16 thread adapter so i can run an amsoil eabp90 be better and use it as a true bypass filter? Not entirely sure that this filter is meant to be used with transmission filtration but i reckon it couldnt hurt... Filters 98% @ 2 microns.

That said, if ran as a true transmission bypass filter, ive always thought fluid would take the path of least resistance, AKA the transmission line instead of the bypass line... Can anyone enlighten me on this?

I think this would be a better way than what i previously stated, what do you guys think?
 
I'll let you know after I install the sandwich adapter to whichever bypass filter that I run on the 2003 4Runner from recently installed Derale spin on filter housing.
If I were you, I would get the spin on filter on and maybe a trans cooler and you should be OK.
 
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