2010 Sonata @ 311k

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Aug 27, 2020
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Bought new, had a wonderful break-in, dealer said to not go over 50 for the first thousand, and do mild accelerations 30 to 50 occasionally. I drove my new car from Jersey to New Orleans at 50 mph, except for the occasional 30 to 50 acceleration. Outside of the temp gauge not working, and the alarm going off by itself several times a month, it runs great. 2.4 auto, been using Mobile 1 and Purelator upgrade filter, 80% highway miles, I don't dig out, try to fill the tank when it hits 1/2. Never changed the trans fluid.
Is it a big job to change the dash cluster so I have a working coolant temp gauge? The alarm going off, that's also on the list.
 
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That's fantastic to read. Thanks for sharing. Our 2013 (bought in 2012) Santa Fe Sport 2.0T is north of 230k.
 
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Impressive. The break-in you performed is quite the opposite of what is usually recommended for a new engine-- one should avoid driving at a sustained speed and should make an effort to vary RPM and load, or so they say. Not sure what going over 50 has to do with anything as speed is a rather useless variable when it comes to breaking in an engine. I think the idea of staying under 50 is to promote driving on secondary roads as opposed to long hauls on the interstate. Clearly it hasn't had any ill effects! Does the engine use any oil?

Is 2010 one of the model years that had the timing chain issues? I know when the 2006 model was introduced the 3.3L had a common problem, I think it was the tensioner which would cause chain slap at startup. My in-laws had one, it would make an awful sound for several seconds every time it started up. Might have been addressed by 2010 though.
 

Ant On Tuba

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Impressive. The break-in you performed is quite the opposite of what is usually recommended for a new engine-- one should avoid driving at a sustained speed and should make an effort to vary RPM and load, or so they say. Not sure what going over 50 has to do with anything as speed is a rather useless variable when it comes to breaking in an engine. I think the idea of staying under 50 is to promote driving on secondary roads as opposed to long hauls on the interstate. Clearly it hasn't had any ill effects! Does the engine use any oil?

Is 2010 one of the model years that had the timing chain issues? I know when the 2006 model was introduced the 3.3L had a common problem, I think it was the tensioner which would cause chain slap at startup. My in-laws had one, it would make an awful sound for several seconds every time it started up. Might have been addressed by 2010 though.
I change the oil every 6 k, will have to add ~1/4 quart prior to the oil change.
 

Nick1994

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Not surprised, that generation of Sonatas are what made me buy my 15' Sonata, and then my 15' Genesis. Although the Genesis is a different animal.

My great aunt had an 06' Sonata 2.4L up until 160k miles or so. Only thing it ever needed was a belt tensioner pulley (squeaky) and a power steering hose. She wrecked it like 3 times too, the 4th wreck her boyfriend totaled it.
 
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2010 was the last year of that generation. It seems those were quite reliable and a good buy. Conversely, 2011 was one of the worst years for them since the engine would seize up.
 
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I had a 2011 and they warranty the engine for quite a long time even if you are out of factory warranty.

The problems I had with the 2011 was the starter. Had to do 3 or 4 of them in as many years. And pinging due to GDI carbon buildup.
 
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2010 was the last year of that generation. It seems those were quite reliable and a good buy. Conversely, 2011 was one of the worst years for them since the engine would seize up.
This highlights how important the engine's quality is, in terms of design and construction. No amount of care will help an engine last if it has fundamental design issues.

But a decent engine cared for like the O.P. has done, will usually outlast the rest of the car.
 
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Mine is a warrior. Still holding together great. A few minor cosmetic issues, but still runs like a champ. Mixed use and I'm not easy on the throttle (because this is a commuter). Keep it going.
 

getawheel

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Is it a big job to change the dash cluster so I have a working coolant temp gauge?
Not a big job at all, maybe 30 minutes if that’s truly the problem. Could also be the sender or an issue elsewhere. Check OBD live data to confirm there is a temperature reading in the computer, and do a gauge sweep test if the cluster supports it.

Problem with changing the cluster is the mileage, you “can” have a new cluster programmed to match your old one but it’s sometimes difficult to find somebody who can do it.
 
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Love high mileage stories and yours is a great one. So little repairs. You did much better than me, I took my 1999 Honda Accord to 289,000 miles (1 owner, bought new). And replaced...engine mounts countless times, almost every suspension component three times, three exhaust systems, a gas tank, a front subframe, vtec switch, tranny switches, O2 sensors, Evap canister twice, countless calipers, EGR valve, brake lines/fuel lines, radiator, axles...probably more that I’m forgetting.

And in the end it was drinking a quart every 700 miles and stalling at stops. Oil changes every 3,000 miles using conventional, since day one. Honestly, it was a great car (half those repairs were because of living in the salt belt).
 
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Love high mileage stories and yours is a great one. So little repairs. You did much better than me, I took my 1999 Honda Accord to 289,000 miles (1 owner, bought new). And replaced...engine mounts countless times, almost every suspension component three times, three exhaust systems, a gas tank, a front subframe, vtec switch, tranny switches, O2 sensors, Evap canister twice, countless calipers, EGR valve, brake lines/fuel lines, radiator, axles...probably more that I’m forgetting.

And in the end it was drinking a quart every 700 miles and stalling at stops. Oil changes every 3,000 miles using conventional, since day one. Honestly, it was a great car (half those repairs were because of living in the salt belt).
The one I had needed a new fuel pressure regulator to fix the stalling and a new oem pvc valve stopped the oil consumption. Although I caught the consumption early on and switched to Maxlife for a few oil changes. New front wheel bearing are all the repairs I can think of after 10 years and 170k miles.
 
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