2010 Honda Accord: 200k Mile Maintenance

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Yea that's a pretty significant difference before / after. The only thing I found is that it's sometimes hard to tell what's ticking / clicking because everything is cold and naturally makes more noise as is until all the metal warms up / expands.
 
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Athens, GA
Originally Posted By: ecotourist
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: brages
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
A good mech will listen to see if they need adjusting, Im at 227 and no need
What does a tight exhaust valve sound like? Because those are the ones that will "burn" you...
You will only hear if it needs an adjustment when the engine is cold. You won't hear a difference when it's hot. A "mech" wouldn't let your car sit in his shop for several hours. You gotta decide yourself if it needs an adjustment. Here is a before & after video. The difference is pretty noticeable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkH6NDmuzMs
You can detect a loose valve by sound. But actually the problem is a too tight valve (usually an exhaust valve) because it will burn. Makes sense - if it doesn't seal fully, hot gases will get by and erode the surface. A loose valve makes tapping noises, but a tight valve sounds fine - until the valve burns. So no you can't identify a problem valve by sound. I plan to have the valves in my V6 Accord adjusted at 200,000 miles. Intake valves tend to loosen. And exhaust valves tend to tighten.
That's exactly what I found in both of my J-Series motors, although it wasn't all of them. I would say out of the 24 there were maybe 12-16 that needed adjusted. Most all of the exhausts were a smidge tight but there were plenty of intakes that I just left alone.
 
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st louis, mo
I know a guy who had the previous generation Accord motor (F23) and it suffered a burned valve at about 260k. I don't know about this generation. I adjusted the valves on my F23 Honda (it's at 295k now); it's really not a big job to do on that motor. I don't know how the K24 compares in ease or need of adjustment. On my Volvo, adjusting valves is very hard to do, and it's only done if the head is being rebuilt.
 
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7,197
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California
Originally Posted By: brages
On my Volvo, adjusting valves is very hard to do, and it's only done if the head is being rebuilt.
Toyota is the same way now - the newer engines that don't use hydraulic rocker-followers use a shim under bucket lifter or in the case of the Prius/Corolla/Scions/Yaris, shimless lifter buckets that are replaced to bring a valve back to spec. It's not really common to do a valve adjustment on a Toyota - but the cams need to be removed to access the head bolts. It's a PITA on some of them, since the VVT actuator and housing need to be pulled apart and carefully put back together.
 
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