2010 Honda Accord: 200k Mile Maintenance

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2,787
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Indiana
Hello, I currently have a 2010 Honda Accord LX (2.4L) that will be nearly 200K miles by the end of summer. I think I've done a great job of maintaining the vehicle up until this point. --Quality Synthetic Oil and Filters changed every 7-8k miles --ATF freshed every year with Honda DW-1 (I've never dropped the pan, but I've done 3 complete fluid swaps and several Drain and Fill's inbetween). Drop the pan and clean it out? I replaced the remote in-line filter with an OEM Honda filter at the 100k mile mark. --at 100K miles: new platinum NGK spark plugs and a coolant flush and fill with Honda Long Life Blue coolant. I had the dealer do the coolant, and they ran a cleaner through it first, rinsed the system, and then installed the Honda Blue Coolant --Every year or so, I do a thorough Drain and Fill of the PSF with Honda PSF. This car is 90% (at least) on the highway. She has spent nearly her entire life at 80 MPH at 2700 RPM's. I'm at 165k miles and she's still on her second set of tires (Michelin's)..... I've never had any engine codes or issues with the car. Ever. Suspension feels like it is still new. Is there anything you think I should do at the 200k mark? Things I've been pondering: --Not only doing another coolant flush and fill, but also replacing the water pump? --Replace radiator hoses --Replace serpentine belt The half shaft boots still look good. Is there any I can do to ensure their longevity? Should I obtain a set of factory half shafts? Anything else I need to be replacing or worry about? I plan to drive this car for a long time (400-500k miles). I don't mind spending the money to prevent future issues. Sorry for the long message.
 
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596
Location
Georgia
^ This! The only thing I would do differently is look at your fluid levels after every gas stop. You can also have your serpentine belt and hoses inspected yourself when you do your oil changes. There are Youtube videos that will teach you that and it's not really that hard. One other thing. I would invest in a basic hydrometer and just test the coolant strength every 20k. You may be throwing money away there. Congrats on a fantastic job!
 
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893
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MA USA
Replace power steering fluid with synthetic. I did mine and it steered much smoother in very cold temps. I went with the Prestone Asian fluid. I also want to keep my Honda a few mores yrs.
 
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3,366
Location
Chicago
I'm only at 146 on mine. But similar story to you. How many times have you done the brakes? I bet they flushed the system with CLR. My driver side heat got cool one day and I did that fix and it worked. How is your armrest and center console upholstery? Mine is ripping. My PS pump will be replaced soon despite many turkey basters over the years.
 
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Have you checked the valve lash? Thankfully K24s don't usually tighten up, but my '08 CR-V had a couple loose valves at 100,000.
 

Phishin

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Originally Posted By: Brybo86
I'm only at 146 on mine. But similar story to you. How many times have you done the brakes? I bet they flushed the system with CLR. My driver side heat got cool one day and I did that fix and it worked. How is your armrest and center console upholstery? Mine is ripping. My PS pump will be replaced soon despite many turkey basters over the years.
I've done the brakes ONCE. Front passenger caliper hung up at about 110k. So it got front rotors and pads. It needed a new caliper and got a new brake hose on that front passenger side as well. The rears just were disassembled and cleaned. The brake fluid was changed at 110k miles and once previously (by the Honda dealer) at about 60k miles. I need to replace it again soon. My arm rest is fine. No rip or tear. Upholstery is a beige fabric. It's been good, and easy to clean. I have a set of WeatherTech floor mats front and rear. I had a 1.25" hitch installed on the rear and use it for my bike rack. I haul my son all over the country in this car to race BMX.
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
Have you checked the valve lash? Thankfully K24s don't usually tighten up, but my '08 CR-V had a couple loose valves at 100,000.
I haven't checked the valve lash. I have a nearby Indy Honda shop with a good reputations. They said they would check it for me, adjust anything that was needed, for fairly cheap. I don't know if I really need to do this or not....
 
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1,114
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midwest
There is no transmission pan that I'm aware of, so just keep up with the drain and fills. I would also skip the coolant flush and just do drain and fills there too. The honda coolant does a good job of keeping things clean so there shouldn't be anything that needs "flushing". Changing the belt might be a good idea, and you might also think of changing your radiator cap and pcv valve.
 
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WI
I'd do a thermostat a swap at the next coolant drain. Wouldn't hurt to consider the radiator and water pump, but I wouldn't worry too much.
 
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Location
Toronto
You don't need flush for the coolant and ATF. Honda doesn't recommend to use distilled water etc. for flushing. Just use good old Honda blue coolant. Just drain and fill the coolant and ATF on time, it will always stay clean. At 200k, if you haven't done yet, you should check valve clearances. Also, you should change primary o2 sensor, since it gets lazier at high mileage. If you haven't changed the PCV, you can also clean or replace that. Thermostat - serpentine belt - coolant hoses are optional.
 
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5,500
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Florida
It can easily be a 500k car by continuing what you've been doing. I've never been one to replace NON BROKEN parts on a car. For all you know, you can have a half a million mile water pump, starter, thermostat, etc that just never quit working, or it can fail on your next trip, just like any defective party, even a new one. X3 or maybe 4 on checking valve clearance to insure you have optimum intake and exhaust flow. If the car is still getting good gas mileage, I wouldn't touch anything else until you need to, such as a perfectly good working O2 sensor. Why blow $150 on a plug if yours isn't broken? I vote you continue with scheduled fluid exchanges and rack up another 100k before you come back asking what to do @ 300k miles. LOL
 
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1,502
Location
USA
Great job! I took an accord to 300K, great cars. New factory spark plugs. Common wisdom would say replace water pump and hoses, but the new edpm hoses just last and last. Your water pump might be good another 100 or 200K, and it will usually weep coolant when it "fails" rather than anything catastrophic. Definitely check valve clearance JIC. My Honda 2.4 was at the tight end of spec at 140K so I put back in the middle of spec range. Flush brake fluid if it's never been done. It absorbs water. If you have never cleaned out the EGR/PCV manifold on top of the intake runners might be a good idea. Change the PCV valve while you are a it, its down by the alternator. Good Luck!
 
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551
Location
st louis, mo
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
A good mech will listen to see if they need adjusting, Im at 227 and no need
What does a tight exhaust valve sound like? Because those are the ones that will "burn" you...
 
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OH
I'd leave the hoses alone. Just about everything else has already been mentioned. Maybe a good detail and apply some sort of rustproofing like Krown or Rust Check.
 
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1,502
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USA
Originally Posted By: brages
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
A good mech will listen to see if they need adjusting, Im at 227 and no need
What does a tight exhaust valve sound like? Because those are the ones that will "burn" you...
Usually the exhaust, yes, actually you wont hear anything. Loose, tappy, loud valves are happy valves. should sound similar to a sewing machine.
 
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5,706
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North Texas
Glad this topic came up. Our 08 CRV is close to 180K. Haven’t touched the valves yet. Plugs I changed at 90K now wait to 200K. Same for the coolant. The shocks are a different story, lol.
 
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686
Location
Toronto
Originally Posted By: brages
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
A good mech will listen to see if they need adjusting, Im at 227 and no need
What does a tight exhaust valve sound like? Because those are the ones that will "burn" you...
You will only hear if it needs an adjustment when the engine is cold. You won't hear a difference when it's hot. A "mech" wouldn't let your car sit in his shop for several hours. You gotta decide yourself if it needs an adjustment. Here is a before & after video. The difference is pretty noticeable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkH6NDmuzMs
 
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1,859
Location
British Columbia, Canada
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: brages
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
A good mech will listen to see if they need adjusting, Im at 227 and no need
What does a tight exhaust valve sound like? Because those are the ones that will "burn" you...
You will only hear if it needs an adjustment when the engine is cold. You won't hear a difference when it's hot. A "mech" wouldn't let your car sit in his shop for several hours. You gotta decide yourself if it needs an adjustment. Here is a before & after video. The difference is pretty noticeable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkH6NDmuzMs
You can detect a loose valve by sound. But actually the problem is a too tight valve (usually an exhaust valve) because it will burn. Makes sense - if it doesn't seal fully, hot gases will get by and erode the surface. A loose valve makes tapping noises, but a tight valve sounds fine - until the valve burns. So no you can't identify a problem valve by sound. I plan to have the valves in my V6 Accord adjusted at 200,000 miles. Intake valves tend to loosen. And exhaust valves tend to tighten.
 
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