2010 Focus, 190k Miles, Pizza Delivery, Oil Suggestion ?
- Thread starter Scanoe
- Start date
- Status
We have the same car. Maxlife ATF for the transmission.5W30 on sale for the engine. Switching to a 30 cut out 1/2 quart consumption in 5K miles to almost nothing.
Originally Posted by gman2304
#4. My 200,000 mile Chevy 5.3 runs like a top on this oil, though your use should be considered severe service in Mn.
5K miles OCI is considered servere service interval for this vehicle.
#4. My 200,000 mile Chevy 5.3 runs like a top on this oil, though your use should be considered severe service in Mn.
5K miles OCI is considered servere service interval for this vehicle.
In short - this vehicle is the definition of a depreciating asset used every day in very cold weather that is started every day from an all-night rest.
If it were my high miles pizza delivery vehicle here's what Id do -
The least expensive 0-20 I can get that's rated (likely Supertech/Rural king/ CMJ bro) I wouldn't pay more for HM unless its consuming past standard rate.
The least expensive 20K rated oil filter - to be used out to 20K miles before pitching
Go lookup what other combos people have paid for UOAS on your car and see what information you can learn
I'd run it 5-7500K - maybe 10K miles and keep that filter in place for 3-4 OCI's - no point in throwing away perfectly good filter with remaining life in it unused.
Because you are getting it fully warm and running all-day run is much easier on it that short tripping so 3500 isn't necessary.
in lieu of a real UOA id do an old-fashioned blot test on the same companies business card (for paper consistency) at 3,5,7,and 10K if it holds out. take picts look for changes.
With a mityvac a simple oil no filter change is a no tool (outside of the vac and a funnel) 17-minute job.
If it were my high miles pizza delivery vehicle here's what Id do -
The least expensive 0-20 I can get that's rated (likely Supertech/Rural king/ CMJ bro) I wouldn't pay more for HM unless its consuming past standard rate.
The least expensive 20K rated oil filter - to be used out to 20K miles before pitching
Go lookup what other combos people have paid for UOAS on your car and see what information you can learn
I'd run it 5-7500K - maybe 10K miles and keep that filter in place for 3-4 OCI's - no point in throwing away perfectly good filter with remaining life in it unused.
Because you are getting it fully warm and running all-day run is much easier on it that short tripping so 3500 isn't necessary.
in lieu of a real UOA id do an old-fashioned blot test on the same companies business card (for paper consistency) at 3,5,7,and 10K if it holds out. take picts look for changes.
With a mityvac a simple oil no filter change is a no tool (outside of the vac and a funnel) 17-minute job.
Last edited:
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Right, but the OP is planning on using top quality synthetics and his engine will likely be up to temperature often. Seems like a modified severe service regime, offset with better-than-spec'd oil --> to me, 10k OCI's would be perfect.
The Fram Ultra is a good idea. I have been buying them in bulk on ebay, oversized for that engine, ( XG3600) and running it out to 18-20k miles. I have ran one out to 24k... No issues.
Just has important is servicing the transmission. Hopefully at least some spill and fills have been done to it. Also change out that air filter, probably annually. Any pictures of the car and/or the pizza you deliver? Since guys on here love pictures.
Can you deliver pizza to Plymouth?
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Originally Posted by pbm
The Ford Duratec/Mazda MZR is very durable...I've seen some with 400K miles....but running it low on oil can change that.
I would run an 0w20 in the winter and maybe an 0w30 in summer (with that mileage)….the only oil on your list that has both grades is Mobil 1.
A 5w20 or 5w30 would be fine in summer too...HM isn't necessary unless it's burning oil.
I saw a green Focus wagon that had around 450,000 miles on it. It was in mint condition too.
The Ford Duratec/Mazda MZR is very durable...I've seen some with 400K miles....but running it low on oil can change that.
I would run an 0w20 in the winter and maybe an 0w30 in summer (with that mileage)….the only oil on your list that has both grades is Mobil 1.
A 5w20 or 5w30 would be fine in summer too...HM isn't necessary unless it's burning oil.
I saw a green Focus wagon that had around 450,000 miles on it. It was in mint condition too.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by pbm
The Ford Duratec/Mazda MZR is very durable...I've seen some with 400K miles....but running it low on oil can change that.
I would run an 0w20 in the winter and maybe an 0w30 in summer (with that mileage)….the only oil on your list that has both grades is Mobil 1.
A 5w20 or 5w30 would be fine in summer too...HM isn't necessary unless it's burning oil.
I saw a green Focus wagon that had around 450,000 miles on it. It was in mint condition too.
That's pretty impressive.
I had a bad experiences with my '05 ST, except for the engine, so I always have trouble believing the rest of the car could make it so long without multiple repairs. Aside from some hard-starts, my 2.3L Duratec was a pretty great engine. I also loved how it drove and shifted (aside from 1st and R gears, since I don't believe they were synchronized). I've now fully digressed, but I remember having to shift into 3rd, then 1st at times; or having to roll the car by sticking my leg out and physically moving the car before finding the sweet spot for engaging 1st or R gear.
As we all know, one data point makes a substantial trend...
Originally Posted by pbm
The Ford Duratec/Mazda MZR is very durable...I've seen some with 400K miles....but running it low on oil can change that.
I would run an 0w20 in the winter and maybe an 0w30 in summer (with that mileage)….the only oil on your list that has both grades is Mobil 1.
A 5w20 or 5w30 would be fine in summer too...HM isn't necessary unless it's burning oil.
I saw a green Focus wagon that had around 450,000 miles on it. It was in mint condition too.
That's pretty impressive.
I had a bad experiences with my '05 ST, except for the engine, so I always have trouble believing the rest of the car could make it so long without multiple repairs. Aside from some hard-starts, my 2.3L Duratec was a pretty great engine. I also loved how it drove and shifted (aside from 1st and R gears, since I don't believe they were synchronized). I've now fully digressed, but I remember having to shift into 3rd, then 1st at times; or having to roll the car by sticking my leg out and physically moving the car before finding the sweet spot for engaging 1st or R gear.
As we all know, one data point makes a substantial trend...
I have a 2013 Ford C-max 2.0L I4 Atkinson engine with 180k miles. It used Motorcraft 5W-20 till 118k miles conventional. Once I got it, I have been using 5W-30 Valvoline MaxLife Semi-Syn 5W-30 for the past 60k miles these last 2 years. Factory recommends 5W-20 or 0W-20 with 10k intervals. I've ususally stuck with 5k intervals but have an a 8 and 12k interval also using Fram Ultra filters for all oil changes. I find sticking to a max 5k interval is optimal as the engine seems to use the oil a bit. Have added some makeup oil only during my extended 12k oil interval otherwise, no noticeable oil consumption after 5k miles.
I'd recommend you also take note of when the spark plugs were replaced as they have a 120k I think. My cmax calls for 180k plug swap and 200k normal plug swap again.
I've had a small increase in mpg after using Amsoil engine flush on my engine as well.
I would not hesitate to run any HM 5W-20/30 or 10W-30. Valvoline and Supertech seem fine brands.
I'd recommend you also take note of when the spark plugs were replaced as they have a 120k I think. My cmax calls for 180k plug swap and 200k normal plug swap again.
I've had a small increase in mpg after using Amsoil engine flush on my engine as well.
I would not hesitate to run any HM 5W-20/30 or 10W-30. Valvoline and Supertech seem fine brands.
The fleet vehicles I used to use were serviced every 5000 with re-refined oil and whatever filter. The only engine failures anyone ever heard of in the last 20 years were from PCVs freezing up.Most were Ford 5.4s, but there are plenty of Foci running around too. Just keep oil in the crankcase.
Don't overthink it!
Don't overthink it!
Originally Posted by Serge
191k on my 07 mazda 3 with the same 2.0 duratec. I own it since new. Have been a Mobil 1 fan and used 0w20/5w20 until 140k or so with 8k oci. After 140k or so i fell off the M1 band wagon and using really anything thats on sale/rebate under $3 a quart with 10k oci. No brand name needed really as long as its under $3 for me.
But sticking to 5w30/10w30 now as its starting to leak/burn oil. Maybe after 200k i will stick to 5w40/10w40 high mileage stuff.
Guess you should have stayed with M1 0-20 in that 2.0. My 2007 Fusion 2.3 still performs great with 0-20 at 233K as did my 2007 Focus 2.0 with 175K until RIP!
191k on my 07 mazda 3 with the same 2.0 duratec. I own it since new. Have been a Mobil 1 fan and used 0w20/5w20 until 140k or so with 8k oci. After 140k or so i fell off the M1 band wagon and using really anything thats on sale/rebate under $3 a quart with 10k oci. No brand name needed really as long as its under $3 for me.
Guess you should have stayed with M1 0-20 in that 2.0. My 2007 Fusion 2.3 still performs great with 0-20 at 233K as did my 2007 Focus 2.0 with 175K until RIP!
Thats the problem it started to consume and leak oil while on M1. It was a little burner since day 1 pretty much. Got alot worse now.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Serge
Thats the problem it started to consume and leak oil while on M1. It was a little burner since day 1 pretty much. Got alot worse now.
My wife and I had the same issue. Switched to a 30 grade and no longer worry about it consuming oil between OCI's.
Thats the problem it started to consume and leak oil while on M1. It was a little burner since day 1 pretty much. Got alot worse now.
My wife and I had the same issue. Switched to a 30 grade and no longer worry about it consuming oil between OCI's.
This is why i think 0w20/5w20 creates more problems.
- Status
