2010 f150 4.6l v8 125,000 miles what maintenance should i do?

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just picked up a 2010 f150 supercab 4.6l v8 with 125,000 miles on it. i got a good deal on it and i need a work truck to drive around for the dirty work etc. the previous owner had it for 4 years and only did oil changes. i got the carfax but it doesnt show much on it regarding maintenance. transmission also has no dipstick so i couldnt check it but truck ran good

at this mileage what fluids should i get changed? ill only be driving it like 5000 miles max a year but i dont mind spending some money on it now just so its good to go for the future. the owner stated he was told that these trucks are fine for life on original fluid so he never thought of changing anything.
so i wanted to ask, what would you change in my shoes? or are most of the fluids still going to be fresh. brake fluid looked dark from reservoir, i assume it needs new fluid + whatever else i cant see like diffs etc


thanks yall!
 
just picked up a 2010 f150 supercab 4.6l v8 with 125,000 miles on it. i got a good deal on it and i need a work truck to drive around for the dirty work etc. the previous owner had it for 4 years and only did oil changes. i got the carfax but it doesnt show much on it regarding maintenance. transmission also has no dipstick so i couldnt check it but truck ran good

at this mileage what fluids should i get changed? ill only be driving it like 5000 miles max a year but i dont mind spending some money on it now just so its good to go for the future. the owner stated he was told that these trucks are fine for life on original fluid so he never thought of changing anything.
so i wanted to ask, what would you change in my shoes? or are most of the fluids still going to be fresh. brake fluid looked dark from reservoir, i assume it needs new fluid + whatever else i cant see like diffs etc


thanks yall!
If it were mine, I would change ALL of the fluids. Start at the rear end and work your way forward. Also, if it were mine, I would use a gasket on the differential when reinstalling the cover. If it's a posi and you buy fluid that states it has friction modifier in it, ADD the Ford type friction modifier as well!
When you drop the trans pan there will probably be a plastic bobber looking thing with a stem on it (I think Ford still does this, I'm not sure though) in the pan. That means the pan has never been dropped. On the assembly line Ford puts this in the dipstick hole. When they install the dipstick, they just push the plastic bobber into the trans. It doesn't hurt anything. Also, the trans pan gasket is reusable.
If the coolant system has never been cleaned/flushed, I would use a flush (like Prestone flush). Also, I would use distilled water along with full strength antifreeze that Ford recommends. I do a 60/40 (60% antifreeze/40% distilled water) on my vehicles.
I would also do a brake fluid flush/exchange, and a power steering flush/exchange.
I would also do an OCI with a 5W30 synthetic oil and an Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter.
Again, these are all of the things I would do if it were mine.
Oh, check the brake pads and rotors as well.
 
Also, I would locate the jack just to make sure it's there! I keep a 12" piece of wood 2x12 to put under the jack in case I have to change a flat in grass, dirt, sand, etc. TRUST ME, it does come in handy.
Check all of your bulbs, lights, etc. to make sure none are bad. Also, change the fuel filter (if it has one). My cousin owns a 2010 F150 Lariat. The filter is in the tank. If it has a fuel filter it will be located between the frame and body under the truck center of the driver's door. Also, change the plugs. I would go back with factory Motorcraft brand. Air filter should be changed as well. Wiper blades.
Don't forget the blinker fluid and the muffler bearings. :LOL: Sorry, I had to throw something in there funny.
 
If your truck came with a owner's manual, it will spell out what should be done up to your present mileage.
 
ATF, Differential/s, Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, & Coolant. I thought all the 4.6L Trucks had a 4R75W with a dipstick?

Add transfer case fluid and plugs if they haven't been done. Not sure if the fuel sending unit is garbage on the 10's. The 04-08's IIRC the sending unit would rust out easily. Super cheap and easy replacement (Dorman was a good replacement part).
 
I believe that would be the 3v 4.6. Same cylinder head as the 5.4 that would have the plugs break off in the head. At only 125K it could still have the original plugs - you're in for a time changing those.
 
There are two flavors of F150 4.6 engines in 2010 - and that's where people are getting things a bit crooked. The 4.6 2V was available with the 4 Speed Auto. So was the 4..6 3V with the 6R80....

Likely a 3V 4.6 F150 if there is no dipstick on the transmission visible from above. There is a small dipstick on the 6R80 underneath and you get the pleasure of trying to burn your hand near a cat while tryin to use it....

And the 3V by that point no longer had the plugs that break off in the heads...

As the others have said, unknown truck with unknown maintenance - I'd change all the fluids....
 
at this mileage what fluids should i get changed? ill only be driving it like 5000 miles max a year but i dont mind spending some money on it now just so its good to go for the future. the owner stated he was told that these trucks are fine for life on original fluid so he never thought of changing anything.
so i wanted to ask, what would you change in my shoes? or are most of the fluids still going to be fresh. brake fluid looked dark from reservoir, i assume it needs new fluid + whatever else i cant see like diffs etc
I would change any "lifetime" fluid (gear oil, manual trans fluid) at the length of the powertrain warranty because that's how long the fluid was warrantied to be able to live. Here's a link to the scheduled maintenance guide for 2010 Fords

Ford has recently started moving away from the orange Dex-cool clone coolants in favor of a Yellow coolant essentially identical to Prestone Universal. If you want to flush your coolant, I would go with Prestone.

Beyond that, if there are no receipts for parts or if it can't be visually confirmed to be replaced, assume it hasn't been replaced.
 
If it's a posi and you buy fluid that states it has friction modifier in it, ADD the Ford type friction modifier as well!
No, that is not the correct approach. Too much modifier has a negative affect on fluid life and prevents proper operation of the unit.
 
AFAIK Ford went DexCool in '11. '03-10 was HOAT G-05

OP, you bought a 3V. My condolences. Start planning for a timing set and Melling HV oil pump and ratcheting metal tensioners.

ANY noises - and I mean any that aren't ticking injectors - are bad.

The plugs are the least of your worries, those just aren't a big deal. The timing set is the PITA. Our '08 5.4 was slapping chains just above hot idle badly at 119k = blown tensioner seals.

Sit down for a few hours and watch anything you can from FTM on YT -- you're gonna need it. Run 5W-30 even if Ford calls out 5W-20

And I still own our '08 (wife's) and I daily an '07 so that makes it harder for people to say I'm just a Ford hater trolling.
 
Yes and no on the 3V issues. My '04 F150 made it to 182k before I couldn't stand the sounds being made and I dumped it... That one needed the full set of timing chains and tensioners.

Our '07 Explorer still sounded great when we sold it with 153,000 on it. Although it did have not so fun plugs to change and liked to warp exhaust manifolds... Ran 5w20 its whole life.
 
Add transfer case fluid and plugs if they haven't been done. Not sure if the fuel sending unit is garbage on the 10's. The 04-08's IIRC the sending unit would rust out easily. Super cheap and easy replacement (Dorman was a good replacement part).
You must be thinking of the FPDM = fuel pump driver module. It was actually corrosion from dissimilar metals.

I thought they did away with them in '09 but I'm not as familiar with the '09-14's as I should be.

I couldn't bring myself to buy Dorman, I got Motorcraft for less on RA. There's a standoff kit included with the new ones to fix the dissimilar metals problem.
 
No, that is not the correct approach. Too much modifier has a negative affect on fluid life and prevents proper operation of the unit.
So you're saying not to add the Ford additive if the gear oil says it's got it. I'm about to do my '05. It chatters around curves.
 
So you're saying not to add the Ford additive if the gear oil says it's got it. I'm about to do my '05. It chatters around curves.
More isn't better. If the gear oil already contains the additive, try it standalone and see if it chatters. If it does, add one ounce at a time until the chatter goes away.

I believe @MolaKule was the one who suggested that approach (a long time ago) and it has always worked for me.
 
This is an EXTREME case but really fun if you're mechanically minded. Plastic guides, GONE. Chain then started "self clearancing" the metal underneath. Think brake pad friction material gone and metal on metal.

Worth a watch just for giggles
 
Here's another with a failed roller follower = dropped valve = hole in block

Again, I just find this stuff fun to watch. It's only a 12 min vid:
 
Ford with 125k its done.
🤣
No just kidding.
Trans fluid, rear end fluid, antifreeze, power steering fluid, break fluid, plugs, wires, grease and oil of coarse
 
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