2008 Victory Kingpin AMSOIL 20W-50

Messages
15
Location
Texas, USA
OEM drain interval recomendations is 5,000 miles with synthetics. AMSOIL is double. Total miles on the bike at 2nd UOA: 19,315. Oil change date was 8/27/2008. I had 2 annalysis done one at 7,374 miles on oil change and one at 9900 miles on oil change. Iron 22/30 Aluminum 4/5 copper 23/27 Lead 1/1 Tin 2/1 Silicon 4/5 sodium 31/30 Potassium 1/2 Molybdenum 41/41 Manganese 8/19 Magnesium 24/24 Calcium 3100/3285 Phosphorus 1132/1164 Zinc 1404/1442 *Note all other minerals at 0* Fuel .2%/<1% Soot<.1%/<.1% Water <.1/<.1 Vis 100c 16.6/17.1 TBN 6.68/6.77 Oxida 27/27 Nitra 16/17 *Note Data flagged for observation only* I sent results back to AMSOIL Tech support and was told to change filter and go another 10,000 miles. Will have another UAO at 15,000 miles and keep ya'll posted. Three questions: 1) should I be worried about the manganese and magnesium? 2)Is it possible to bring these down? 3)My fuel levels were a bit high at the second check and I think the problem is from the new exhaust system installed. Will Dyno help me understand this and fix it and is this a major concern?
 
Messages
152
Location
Illinois
Is this the UOA on the right with 9900 miles? Is this MCV? Magnesium is an additive, not sure where the maganese is coming from. I would not worry about fuel <1 is not high. You could get a dyno tune to get a little more HP and TQ. Are you planning on running oil 15,000 miles? I know we are in a recession but WOW. I am not that brave on an air cooled bike. Not sure if these Victory's run as hot as HD's do though.
 
Messages
434
Location
Arizona, USA
 Originally Posted By: FZ1
You need to dump the oil to get the wear metals out.
I wondered about that. I would think the ability to go for such an extended change interval would be a functions of:
  • The quality of the oil (including viscosity, detergents and TBN)
  • The ability of the filter to trap out contaminants
Am I correct that very long OCIs requires the filter to be changed out more frequently? Would that be sufficient to remove contaminants? Or are some contaminants too fine to be caught by even the best filter?
 

Kingpin

Thread starter
Messages
15
Location
Texas, USA
 Originally Posted By: hd2002
Is this the UOA on the right with 9900 miles? Is this MCV? Magnesium is an additive, not sure where the maganese is coming from. I would not worry about fuel <1 is not high. You could get a dyno tune to get a little more HP and TQ. Are you planning on running oil 15,000 miles? I know we are in a recession but WOW. I am not that brave on an air cooled bike. Not sure if these Victory's run as hot as HD's do though.
Yes numbers on the right are at 9900 and yes it is MCV. I was a little nervous about it also, even though the warranty would still hold. I decided to drain the oil and change it last night. Bike is going in for a brake job and Dyno. I figured I should have fresh oil for that.
 

FZ1

Messages
4,727
Location
Texas
I prefer to change the oil and the filter every Fall after my last ride. I'm just a fun rider and only ride about 800 miles per year. I just figure nothing bad happens if the oil is changed "too soon". My bike only holds 3.7 quarts so how much money is being saved vs. the cost of a motorcycle?
 
Messages
152
Location
Illinois
 Originally Posted By: Kingpin
 Originally Posted By: hd2002
Is this the UOA on the right with 9900 miles? Is this MCV? Magnesium is an additive, not sure where the maganese is coming from. I would not worry about fuel <1 is not high. You could get a dyno tune to get a little more HP and TQ. Are you planning on running oil 15,000 miles? I know we are in a recession but WOW. I am not that brave on an air cooled bike. Not sure if these Victory's run as hot as HD's do though.
Yes numbers on the right are at 9900 and yes it is MCV. I was a little nervous about it also, even though the warranty would still hold. I decided to drain the oil and change it last night. Bike is going in for a brake job and Dyno. I figured I should have fresh oil for that.
I think you made a wise decision.
 
Messages
2,098
Location
The Rocky Mountains
That's an interesting statement. If wear metal generation rates per 1,000 miles don't sharply increase then would having the wear metals (most all measured in this type of analysis being far <5 microns easily passing through engine tolerances) left in the oil be a huge deal if you were running a decent filter with 15 micron capability (Mobil, Donaldson or Amsoil EA) and changing it before it gets saturated? We routinely run OTR trucks out to 40-60k miles without changing the oil to get the wear metal particles out and there are no ill effects...what would be different in this situation? Just trying to follow the thought process here and keep my logic in check if it's whacked. Also I'm interested in how the OP got Amsoil tech to comment on an UOA report?? I've called them in the past to talk UOA data versus their application guide recommendations and all I got was some guy who had the same tech data sheets that I had in his hands just talking about service intervals versus the reality of the reports I had from their analysis service...thew were not very helpful at all. I guess if you have a dealer or DJ on the phone with you when you call you might be able to get more info from them, but I got jack. Their lubricants are pretty rocking, but tech was not so tech.
 

FZ1

Messages
4,727
Location
Texas
Mcs with the transmission and the engine sharing the oil are harder on oil than cars. Tests have shown shearing in 800 miles on Mcs. I just want the old oil out after 12 months and fresh oil in over the winter.
 
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