2008 Toyota Highlander Rear Struts.

[Rykertest]

Hello. I have 200,000 miles on my 08 AWD highlander and I am having some pretty rough clunking and what not coming from the rear when going over bumps. I’m almost sure the original struts are done. In looking around other the internet it seems the KYB SR4447 is a popular OEM equivalent replacement.

I have 2 questions:

1) Is that part one you folks would suggest? 2) How hard of a replacement is this? From the videos I’ve seen there is no need to compress the spring and it’s simply nuts and bolts which I’m confidant I can handle.

Thanks I’m advance for any assistance.

 

[skyactiv]

You're wrong on not needing to compress the struts unless you joined the club most everyone else has where you replace the entire assembly.

 

[edyvw]

Hello. I have 200,000 miles on my 08 AWD highlander and I am having some pretty rough clunking and what not coming from the rear when going over bumps. I’m almost sure the original struts are done. In looking around other the internet it seems the KYB SR4447 is a popular OEM equivalent replacement.

I have 2 questions:

1) Is that part one you folks would suggest? 2) How hard of a replacement is this? From the videos I’ve seen there is no need to compress the spring and it’s simply nuts and bolts which I’m confidant I can handle.

Thanks I’m advance for any assistance.

Replace all 4 sides!
KYB is ok replacement.

 

[Rykertest]

You're wrong on not needing to compress the struts unless you joined the club most everyone else has where you replace the entire assembly.

I was planning to replace the entire assembly.

 

[Rykertest]

Replace all 4 sides!
KYB is ok replacement.

I’m only focused on the rear struts at this time. It’s cost prohibitive to replace all 4 currently.

 

[Bill7]

From what I have read, it's good to pay the extra money and get the OEM genuine Toyota struts.
Aftermarket struts don't last that long.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Quick struts are awesome

They are easy to replace. Just the nuts and bolts like you mention.

Remember that the right and left are different part numbers. SR4446 and SR4447

Also, you may need to cut off the sway bar links since they use that stupid hex key in the middle that likes to strip, especially if you have to deal with rust. The best sway bar links to use are CTR because they have a nut on the other end for easier installation and removal. Rock Auto doesn't sell CTR, but you can get them from Partsgeek or Amazon. Part number CL0555

 

[Elroy the Brave]

Old car with 200K miles?

Get some cheap quick struts off of Rock Auto and install them.

 

[The Critic]

Check your rear sway bar end links, you may not need new struts.

 

[IndyIan]

From what I have read, it's good to pay the extra money and get the OEM genuine Toyota struts.
Aftermarket struts don't last that long.

KYB is pretty decent, they have always been a lifetime replacement for me, as it seems I replace the struts on our cars at 8-9-10 years and then the car is usually done at 14-15 years, and I've never worn one out in that time frame.
The kyb front strut mounts on my Focus were much better than OEM for ride smoothness, but usually they are pretty much OEM quality with a touch more dampening.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

Check your rear sway bar end links, you may not need new struts.

Just came here to say this.

The actual strut likely isn’t your noise. It may handle bumps and dips sloppily because of a worn strut, but it likely isn’t clunking.

Your sway bar links, bushings, or strut mounts are the likely cause of your clunk in a Toyota.

 

[Lubener]

Check your rear sway bar end links, you may not need new struts.

200k miles, they likely are shot along with those links.

 

[The Critic]

200k miles, they likely are shot along with those links.

Not necessarily. If they are not leaking, any loss of dampening is likely to be minimal.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Rust is a big factor. Where are you from?

Just came here to say this.

The actual strut likely isn’t your noise. It may handle bumps and dips sloppily because of a worn strut, but it likely isn’t clunking.

Your sway bar links, bushings, or strut mounts are the likely cause of your clunk in a Toyota.

200k miles, they likely are shot along with those links.

Not necessarily. If they are not leaking, any loss of dampening is likely to be minimal.

If the OP has to deal with rust, the mount could've rotten apart

I had a Toyota where the spring fell out of its lower spring seat, left rear. Then I found the strut mount rusted and the piston not even striking correctly.

Also, Toyota rear springs often sag. That seems to happen more often in Toyotas than other cars.

 

[The Critic]

If the OP has to deal with rust, the mount could've rotten apart

I had a Toyota where the spring fell out of its lower spring seat, left rear. Then I found the strut mount rusted and the piston not even striking correctly.

Also, Toyota rear springs often sag. That seems to happen more often in Toyotas than other cars.

All of these items can be verified with an inspection instead of hanging new parts.

 

[Rykertest]

Check your rear sway bar end links, you may not need new struts.

I did wonder about those as well as the links so I will definitely check those. That would be significantly less expensive! Question specific to those sway bar bushings. Are they supposed to be greased inside or not? I’ve heard some guys say to buy lube inside and other guys say leave the bushing and bar dry. Thanks!

Rust is a big factor. Where are you from?





If the OP has to deal with rust, the mount could've rotten apart

I had a Toyota where the spring fell out of its lower spring seat, left rear. Then I found the strut mount rusted and the piston not even striking correctly.

Also, Toyota rear springs often sag. That seems to happen more often in Toyotas than other cars.

im in the south so rust isn’t a major problem On average.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

I did wonder about those as well as the links so I will definitely check those. That would be significantly less expensive! Question specific to those sway bar bushings. Are they supposed to be greased inside or not? I’ve heard some guys say to buy lube inside and other guys say leave the bushing and bar dry. Thanks!

im in the south so rust isn’t a major problem On average.

The question about lubricating your swaybar bushings will likely split alot of people.

I worked on Chryslers during an era of every caravan eating swaybar links and bushings, needing multiple sets while still in warranty. Chrysler had us apply a silicone based lube inside swaybar bushings. Guys that didn’t choose to install them this way saw the vehicles come back very quick with the same noise. When we did lube them, they’d last significantly longer / long enough to get the vehicle out of warranty without noise coming back. After my experience with Chryslers, I just lube all the ones I install.

I believe the thought behind not lubricating is that the swaybar bushings need to grip the bar and not let it slide excessively side to side where it’s clamped by the bushings and clamps.

Some will come with specific instruction.

I’m sure some of it boils down to the actual bushing material, too..and what material is compatible with what lubricant (or none)

 

[Lubener]

Not necessarily. If they are not leaking, any loss of dampening is likely to be minimal.

It would have to be driven on the finest roads to have "minimal" loss of dampening after 200k which I highly doubt.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

The question about lubricating your swaybar bushings will likely split alot of people.

I worked on Chryslers during an era of every caravan eating swaybar links and bushings, needing multiple sets while still in warranty. Chrysler had us apply a silicone based lube inside swaybar bushings. Guys that didn’t choose to install them this way saw the vehicles come back very quick with the same noise. When we did lube them, they’d last significantly longer / long enough to get the vehicle out of warranty without noise coming back. After my experience with Chryslers, I just lube all the ones I install.

I believe the thought behind not lubricating is that the swaybar bushings need to grip the bar and not let it slide excessively side to side where it’s clamped by the bushings and clamps.

Some will come with specific instruction.

I’m sure some of it boils down to the actual bushing material, too..and what material is compatible with what lubricant (or none)

were those OE bushings polyurethane? I didn't think OE bushings would be poly

The last time I replaced sway bar bushings (Subaru), the bushings came with some kind of goo already applied to them.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

were those OE bushings polyurethane? I didn't think OE bushings would be poly

The last time I replaced sway bar bushings (Subaru), the bushings came with some kind of goo already applied to them.

I don’t really know what they were made of.