2008 Silverado 5.3 - switching to 10W-30 ok?

Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Messages
118
Location
Nashville, TN, United States
I have a 2008 Silverado 5.3 with 163,000 miles that is using some oil. I have had AFM turned off with my tune since at least 70,000 miles but still using some oil. Is there an issue with moving up to a 10W-30 since my truck technically calls for a 5W-30?

Since I live in middle TN, it gets pretty hot here in the spring/summer. I was looking at the PDS between the 5w and 10w Castrol Edge and from my untrained eye, they seem pretty close in thickness? At least when it comes to cSt 40/100 numbers. Where it's not identical is the CCS (-30 for 5W and -25 for 10W). I like the 10W with the 6.6 NOACK vs the 10 with the 5W. Is there a "thinner" 10W-30 out there that might be better or closer to a 5W-30?

I want to make sure the 10W still pumps and flows as easily as the 5W to prevent cold-start noise but want something with a lower NOACK.

I'm due for an oil change soon and considering giving the Havoline ProDS a try. The numbers look pretty similar between the 5W/10Ws but their sheets done mention anything about NOACK. Their cSt numbers look very close but it's the CCS V numbers that are off due to the different test temps.
 
Any time the second number are the same . It’s all the same anyway . 5w30 or 10w30 is all really the same . Unless you talking extreme cold start . You can do 5w for winter and 10w for summer .
 
I did the valve cover a while ago, probably 7-8 years ago so that's been done. AFM has been turned off for most of the engine's life.

It's tough to find 5W-40 here in Nashville. The one ones I can find are Euro formulas. I guess my biggest question was on the CCS/MVR numbers since both are tested at different temps.

Does anybody know the NOACK values of the Havoline ProDS? I can find Castrol's but not Havoline's.
 
Use an HM oil. Mobil1 HM 5w30 and 10w30 are 11.9-12cst.
Another option are the Euro or HDEO higher HTHS 5w30's.

NOACK is not concrete. Dexos < whatever% and API/ILSAC < whatever % is plenty good. I question the repeatable of an outlier 'low' NOACK test numbers especially with batch blending.

If Edge is your brand, look at the 5w30C3, 5w30LL, 5w30A3/B4, and the 0w30.

Start with the Dexos2 list:
 
I was under the impression that the lifters and camshaft need to be swapped on the GM 5.3 AFM if you want to avoid oil burning. Simply turning the AFM off in your tune won’t stop the oil burning, or the possible lifter/cam damage that these engines can have.
 
I was under the impression that the lifters and camshaft need to be swapped on the GM 5.3 AFM if you want to avoid oil burning. Simply turning the AFM off in your tune won’t stop the oil burning, or the possible lifter/cam damage that these engines can have.
Negative. As long as you have the updated driver's side valve cover and/or the new(er) AFM shield in the oil pan, oil consumption is all but fixed on them.

Swapping the lifters/cam/tuning the AFM is needed to avoid the eventual AFM lifter disaster.
 
What is the Castrol "LL" oil? I've seen those in the PDS but never know which oil it is.

Would a HM oil help with consumption? I thought I read somewhere that going to a 5W-30 HM or a 10W-30 is essentially the same? Is that wrong or somewhat correct?
 
What is the Castrol "LL" oil? I've seen those in the PDS but never know which oil it is.

Would a HM oil help with consumption? I thought I read somewhere that going to a 5W-30 HM or a 10W-30 is essentially the same? Is that wrong or somewhat correct?
Grade is independent of whether it is a high mileage oil or not. An HM oil may or may not help depending on why you are experiencing consumption but it costs almost nothing to try.

Castrol Edge LL, the price is a steal for a low-SAPS oil with a 3.5 HT/HS:

 
HM oil would help with consumption as it swells the seals. The 5W-30 vs 10W-30 are the same thickness though it could vary by brand just slightly. If you are looking for a bit thicker oil maybe a 10W-40 would be best.
 
So the LL is the gold bottle? The Extended Performance?

One thing I forgot to mention is sometimes I get a little rattle at startup if I let the truck sit for days at a time. Since I can now drive my wife's company vehicle without her in it, I'll drive that quite a bit since it's free gas (even for personal use) so my truck might sit for 4-5 days between drives.

Will moving to a 10W-30 or HM prevent the cold start rattle? It does it for maybe 1 second and then is all quiet. My thought is that a 10W oil is a little thicker when cold so it wouldn't drain down as quickly and stay in all the channels, etc. But, on the other side it might not pump as quickly to get to all the channels and journals when the engine is cold or the air temp is cold.
 
Negative. As long as you have the updated driver's side valve cover and/or the new(er) AFM shield in the oil pan, oil consumption is all but fixed on them.

Swapping the lifters/cam/tuning the AFM is needed to avoid the eventual AFM lifter disaster.
That’s exactly what I just said.
 
That’s exactly what I just said.
It's not. You said, "I was under the impression that the lifters and camshaft need to be swapped on the GM 5.3 AFM if you want to avoid oil burning."

That's not true. You can have the AFM lifters and camshaft and not burn oil. To not burn oil, you need to do the things I suggested, which you didn't say/suggest.

So no, it's not exactly what you said, at all. The only correct thing you said was simply turning off AFM won't stop the possible lifter damage. That part is true. :)
 
I like the 10w30 idea because the 10w30 likely has fewer viscosity modifiers (VII) added to the oil. The result is usually better NOAK, less shear and fewer combustion deposits.

I intend to try the Havoline Pro DS 10w30 oil for my next oil change. I like the price of the 6 quart box at Walmart.

Your climate seems ideal for 10w30.
 
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