2008 Silverado 5.3 - switching to 10W-30 ok?

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Doubtful the shield has been installed.
Bummer. It's an important part of the oil consumption TSB. Why a lot of the valve cover upgrades fail to produce results. It's also a good excuse to open up and fix what I think is one of the key contributors to AFM lifter failure. That pesky pickup tube o-ring. The lifters rely on hydraulic oil pressure to open and close. Might as well go in and do both.
 
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Either 10W-30 should work. Tenn doesn't get that cold even in the middle of winter.
10W is good down to 0° IIRC.

5W-40 is often considered 'truck' oil, as in Rotella. Less expensive that Euro grade oils.

My 2¢
 
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Bummer. It's an important part of the oil consumption TSB. Why a lot of the valve cover upgrades fail to produce results. It's also a good excuse to open up and fix what I think is one of the key contributors to AFM lifter failure. That pesky pickup tube o-ring. The lifters rely on hydraulic oil pressure to open and close. Might as well go in and do both.
Yup. I'm just guessing though as the OP hasn't said either way but not a lot of people are willing/wanting to drop the oil pan. That dang o-ring is a PITA sometimes.
 

Mossyoakglock

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Jun 12, 2009
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Nashville, TN, United States
Correct, I have not done the deflector in the oil pan.

So it sounds like I likely won't notice much a difference between the 5W and 10W. I'll likely give Havoline 10W-30 a shot.

This has likely been beat to death but how does Havoline compare to Castrol? The numbers seem similar between the two in both 5W and 10W but does one seem to be better than the other? I know it was said that NOACK isn't everything but does anything know the NOACK for the Havoline?
 
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