2008 KIA Sportage - Front Left wheel (Brakes locked-up)

[JGmazda]

release the brake line between the abs and the MC, see if that frees the caliper. If it doesn't the issue is upstream

Good idea. I've sort-of thrown-in the towel and decided I may need to have it towed to a shop nearby. Sigh... I'm thinking it's going to be some $$$....

 

[nthach]

I’m guessing ABS modulator. What happens when you have someone step on the brake pedal as if you were bleeding the brake but crack the line fitting for that wheel’s line at the modulator? A gush of fluid or nothing?

 

[JGmazda]

I’m guessing ABS modulator. What happens when you have someone step on the brake pedal as if you were bleeding the brake but crack the line fitting for that wheel’s line at the modulator? A gush of fluid or nothing?

I think you are correct. When I had someone push on the pedal while cracking the bleeder, fluid did come out. However.... it wasn't the typical flow-rate. No "gush"...
I'm assuming there is some form of restriction going on... and yes, perhaps it IS the ABS modulator. I guess these things go bad.

 

[nthach]

I'm assuming there is some form of restriction going on... and yes, perhaps it IS the ABS modulator. I guess these things go bad.

contamination - be it pushing back old fluid into the modulator during brake pad replacement or contaminated fluid(with petroleum products or dirt) can ruin an ABS modulator. Today’s cars with tight HMI/ADAS integration with the ABS/ESP system, if the modulator is bad, the car might not work as intended.

Has anyone else replaced the brake pads on your car? @Trav taught me something here a while ago - crack the bleeder screw before pushing the caliper piston back home. That way, you prevent any particles from entering the ABS modulator. Yes, you will need to bleed your brakes afterwards but brake fluid is cheap compared to a new modulator.

 

[JGmazda]

Here's an interesting observation... When replacing the Mater Cylinder on my 2008 (With Electronic Stability Control. "ESC" for short.) I noticed all of the parts suppliers I checked online show an part WITHOUT the ESC connection as the correct replacement. I'm wondering if I need to hunt one of these ESC units down from EBay or Amazon since I cannot find one locally. (I saw a few on ebay and Amazon... $400!!! What?) This car is getting crazy....

 

[JGmazda]

contamination - be it pushing back old fluid into the modulator during brake pad replacement or contaminated fluid(with petroleum products or dirt) can ruin an ABS modulator. Today’s cars with tight HMI/ADAS integration with the ABS/ESP system, if the modulator is bad, the car might not work as intended.

Has anyone else replaced the brake pads on your car? @Trav taught me something here a while ago - crack the bleeder screw before pushing the caliper piston back home. That way, you prevent any particles from entering the ABS modulator. Yes, you will need to bleed your brakes afterwards but brake fluid is cheap compared to a new modulator.

No One has touched the brakes prior to me. I think you're spot-on with the modulator. Good idea about the caliper bleeder! Yeah, I'm now wondering how to approach replacing/fixing the "modulator. Is this an electronic failure, hydraulic, or both? Do people just "R&R" these things? Maybe a job for the professionals.....?

 

[Britdude74]

This is weird.... Driving home the other day and noticed I was deeper into the throttle than usual. I thought I was losing power to my engine and pulled over into a parking lot, placed it park and began to smell that acrid smell of burning brakes.

Got out of the vehicle and noticed my front-left disc brake was giving-off heat and smell. In fact, when I tried to pull ahead to a safer spot, I could barely get the car to move. **** front brake seemed to be clamped-down all by itself.

Anyhow.... had it towed home thinking a caliper froze-up and decided I'd repair it myself. (Still plenty of pad material intact and never had an issue. Also, I have completed brake jobs before.)

So... Replaced the caliper, pads, resurfaced the rotor, flushed, and bled the system. Nope! Locked again just as I was driving out of the neighborhood.

Went back in... purchased a new master cylinder and brake line. Replaced those and flushed the entire brake system (all 4-wheels).

Nope! That front caliper is clenched so hard it won't let go. Crazy huh? Now... I'm thinking some funky ABS issue is kicking-in and sending pressure to that front caliper for some weird reason.

Anyone have any ideas or have dealt with this before? I'm lost at where to start again... ABS? Can the module or pump be at fault?

Thank you ahead of time. I'm hoping someone might have a clue.

Thank you!

ABS problem, check for recalls by vin

 

[JGmazda]

ABS problem, check for recalls by vin

Thanks! Yeah, Makes sense and I have not done that! Definitely a problem with the ABS!

ABS problem, check for recalls by vin

No luck with the VIN #. It's gotta be the ABS unit as I have disconnected the line coming from the unit (Left wheel) and then the car can move! Soon as I reconnect the line the front left caliper locks up... go figure.