Hello just got a Used 2008 Elantra. Will be doing an oil change. The manual recommends 5w20 or 5w30 they even had a 10w30 on the chart but was not recommended for best fuel economy. This car has less that 60,000 miles on it. I will be running synthetic. Is it wise to consider a 0w 20 or 30 weight for this engine. I was considering Valvoline,Quaker-state and even Super tech. any suggestions on a oil grade or brand would be helpful.
2008 Hyundai Elantra Oil Choice.
- Thread starter Turbul
- Start date
QSUD 5w30 with OEM Filter is usually current Hyundai Dealer Fill.
That’s what I would go with I guess.
To be honest I’d just run something like GTX 10w30 until the transmission goes and the tires fall off. But yeah it’s not my car and you want a synthetic so just go with current Hyundai recommendations. QSUD or Shell Helix and OEM filter.
That’s what I would go with I guess.
To be honest I’d just run something like GTX 10w30 until the transmission goes and the tires fall off. But yeah it’s not my car and you want a synthetic so just go with current Hyundai recommendations. QSUD or Shell Helix and OEM filter.
5W30 Mobil1 EP or Castrol Magnatec.
Supertech 10w30 full synthetic and filter w 7500-8000 mile oci is what I would do. 5w30 in the winter of live in the cold
Knowing the engine issues with that manufacturer -- why would you recommend such a long oil change interval??
Beta II engine.
I used very thin 0W20 for 300k miles.
Successive greatly extended UOAs clearly showed that this was no problem for my circumstances.
Driving conditions ?
Chevron Supreme.
Magnatec.
5W20.
SP/ILSAC GF-6A.
5K mile OCI.
Change Timing Belt +
all associated hardware at 100K miles.
Use OEM SP III ATF
(dealership or NAPA Eneos.)
I used very thin 0W20 for 300k miles.
Successive greatly extended UOAs clearly showed that this was no problem for my circumstances.
Driving conditions ?
Chevron Supreme.
Magnatec.
5W20.
SP/ILSAC GF-6A.
5K mile OCI.
Change Timing Belt +
all associated hardware at 100K miles.
Use OEM SP III ATF
(dealership or NAPA Eneos.)
Why did you not buy another one then?????? LOL
1. Discontinued.
2. Traded in on PriusC.
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
It's funny how people obsess over what oil to use but ignore the key thing that could grenade their engine...
The BETA engine in the 2007-2010 Elantra is bullet proof and will run on anything from 0w20 to 5w40. The issues started in the next generation of engines...
Have used Napa 5w20 in that car since new for 10 years, recently switched to 5w-30 to standardize across vehicles. In hindsight I would have used 5w30 as the manual makes clear is fine. The cap says 5w-20, which is why I used that all these years. 48k miles now.
I'd recommend pulling the cabin air filter (behind the glove box) along with the engine's filter, if you haven't already. I think the cabin air filters are more time sensitive than mileage sensitive, especially if the car is stored outside, and it is easy to overlook. I was surprised what I found in mine.
I'd recommend pulling the cabin air filter (behind the glove box) along with the engine's filter, if you haven't already. I think the cabin air filters are more time sensitive than mileage sensitive, especially if the car is stored outside, and it is easy to overlook. I was surprised what I found in mine.
Thanks for the reply's. I bought this car based on recommendations as being reliable. There were many Honda and Toyota's that have have bad years. Also, 4 wheel disc brakes, independent rear suspension and very comfortable seats. I think Hyundai was really chasing the competition and offering a lot of car. It is unfortunate that they have not done well with newer engines. I did want to avoid all used CVT cars. That took out a lot of newer cars. I appreciate all the reply s. Using a Hyundai OEM oil filter was not on my radar. They have done 3 revisions over the years and I am going to order one. The only thing I am not happy with is the gas mileage. I am probably going to go with 5w 30 or possibly a zero weight option. No one recommended 5w 20. I think I will go with the oem filter.
Also, it helps to remove the plastic shield below the oil filter before you remove the filter. Dripped oil runs along the shield and is hard to clean up. I put mine back on each time but probably could just leave it off. Hope your car treats you as well as ours has.
When we shopped for a new car in this price range in 2009 the Hyundais clearly stood out, especially in fit and finish. Still rattle free and feels new.
When we shopped for a new car in this price range in 2009 the Hyundais clearly stood out, especially in fit and finish. Still rattle free and feels new.
Yeah I am aware of the timing belt. The manual recommends inspection at 60,000 and replacement at 90,000 miles. Since the car is old, I don't plan on waiting long. I have already bought a coolant temp sensor and thermostat. I figured out what coolant to use. I saw a video of a timing belt change and was very impressed with how everything looked. The condition of the belt being replaced looked great. I don't know much about cars. But I know they don't like overheating, belts breaking or running out of oil.
Super Tech 5w30 Full Synthetic all day long. 3 of our 4 cars will be on the Super Tech plan after the wife's next OCI. Only vehicle not on ST is my Ram and that's because I can get Mobil Delvac or Mystik HDEO cheaper (with rebates) than ST HDEO.
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
Where do you live? Unless you are planning on starting unaided at a temperature below -35F then an oil with a 0W winter rating will have no effect.
FWIW there is no such thing as a “zero weight” oil. That’s not what the winter rating represents.
FWIW there is no such thing as a “zero weight” oil. That’s not what the winter rating represents.
