My '09 burns a little. Still using 0w20 in it. I used a can of Liquimoly Oil Saver, which slowed it down quite a bit. All my top offs are with M1 10w40 HM. Adding maybe a quart every 5-7k OCI. Previously it burned a full quart every 1000-1500.
2008 Honda Accord Ex 2.4L
- Thread starter Brolly
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Me,my brother,and sister in law all drive Accords. Theirs are both 07's and mine a 2012. All three K24 EX-L's none of ours uses a single drop. I've actually never owned a car that used any oil whatsoever,I've never had to add oil to anything I've ever owned.
What exactly causes an engine to use oil in the first place? Manufacturing defect and luck of the draw?
What exactly causes an engine to use oil in the first place? Manufacturing defect and luck of the draw?
Well I brought her up to Oklahoma. Once I got the 08 home I checked the oil dipstick and it was a mm or 2 below the full line. My BIL gave me the paperwork from all the oil changes he had done to it for a total 4 all with PPHM 5w-20.
I'm getting a tune-up, valve adjustment, and a transmission drain and fill tomorrow.
Dealership states I need to do a steering rack and pinion replacement ($2,400!!!!) they say it is leaking into the boots. I asked them to show me but there were no visible leaks
and a driver side outer tie rod.
Other than that she drove like I had remembered. Got 30.5 mpg on the way up.
My 2008 with my 2018
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/04/full-76186-31691-2877cd34_7d47_47fa_87bf_087e0790290f.jpeg "[Linked Image]")
I'm getting a tune-up, valve adjustment, and a transmission drain and fill tomorrow.
Dealership states I need to do a steering rack and pinion replacement ($2,400!!!!) they say it is leaking into the boots. I asked them to show me but there were no visible leaks
Other than that she drove like I had remembered. Got 30.5 mpg on the way up.
My 2008 with my 2018
They don't call them Stealerships for nothing!
JohnnyJohnson said:
I know it's out of your way, but please, whatever you do, do NOT go to Bob Howard. Ever. I wouldn't trust a pebble to those mind-bogglingly incompetent imbeciles.
Originally Posted by Driz
JohnnyJohnson said:
I have a 2011 Acura TSX wagon that has a similar 4 cylinder engine, with a higher compression ratio than the Accord. It is the first car that I've owned since my 1977 Rabbit that has consumed any oil between oil changes. That VW was recalled due to leaking valve stem seals, which solved the problem. I've used Mobil 1 0w20 since I took delivery of the TSX and changed it in accordance with the maintenance minder. It started consuming a quart per 5,000 miles starting in 2016 and that increased to a quart every 2,500 miles by 2017. Acura extended the powertrain warranty because of this problem which they attribute to combustion deposits and recommended only using top tier gasoline and of course 91 octane due to the higher compression ratio. My consumption was not enough for them to take any action and I've read that a number of newer engines with low tension rings are prone to this problem. I stopped getting gas from Wawa and the Giant supermarket and started adding Techron two or three times per year. This has resulted in a reduction in consumption down to about a quart per 6,000 miles. With any luck, this trend will continue and I will not need to add oil between changes any more. Just changed the spark plugs @ 91,000 miles and they looked clean. Hope this helps.
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Our 2012 Gen 8 isn't too far behind your 2008 in miles and has had 0W-20 from new at MM 15% drain intervals with one summer run of 5W-20.
Need I say that it never needs any oil adds between drains?
Anyway, with what's a fairly low mileage engine, I'd suspect stuck rings and not wear.
Kreen might be your solution, or the uber-costly Valvoline 10W-30 HDEO recommended for periodic use in Cummins engines to clear carbon.
I'd try some chemical means of freeing the rings before resorting to a thicker grade of oil. A couple of shortish runs of proven problem-solvers might be in order.
Might work and can't hurt.
Need I say that it never needs any oil adds between drains?
Anyway, with what's a fairly low mileage engine, I'd suspect stuck rings and not wear.
Kreen might be your solution, or the uber-costly Valvoline 10W-30 HDEO recommended for periodic use in Cummins engines to clear carbon.
I'd try some chemical means of freeing the rings before resorting to a thicker grade of oil. A couple of shortish runs of proven problem-solvers might be in order.
Might work and can't hurt.
Have you considered a piston ring soak? Sometimes variables (non top-tier fuel, frequent short distance drives, use of higher NOAK oils) can gum up the piston rings. When they're gummed up, they may not fully seal against the cylinder bore...thereby allowing blow by/consumption to happen/increase. Someone recommended the Valvoline Restore option, which may be suggestive of this issue.
There are different chemicals people have used to soak the tops of the pistons, which allows the chems to pass over the top of the pistons, make contact with the piston rings and act as a solvent to dissolve the build-up that is keeping the rings from moving/sealing against the cylinder bore. I pulled the plugs and used 1-2 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil per cylinder and checked them a couple hours later. If the MMO empties from the cylinder, then you likely have a ring issue (worn vs stuck is unclear and you could have other issues, but this may help you) in that cylinder--retreat that cylinder as you can.
Don't exceed the recommendation on the MMO bottle for engine flush/crankcase use--I believe you can add 16oz to the crank case. Don't keep adding and adding and adding MMO to the cylinder, but if you have a tricky cylinder or two, you can retreat it 2-3x more to try to coerce those rings to loosen and do their job. Intact rings should keep the MMO in the cylinders. So, if the MMO remains in the cylinders for 12-24hrs, you'll have to remove it--you don't want to hydrolock your engine the next time you start her up.
MMO has directions on the bottle on how to use the stuff in your crankcase/use it as an oil flush. If you have a stuck ring, you're essentially dumping this stuff into your crank case, so follow those directions in leading up to changing your oil. Again, please make sure you get the extra MMO out of your cylinders before starting your engine. Once that's done, your engine will smoke the next time you turn on the car, but will subside--follow the MMO directions to prep for your oil change (idle vs drive gently), then dump the oil, put in an inexpensive (but appropriate) oil and run a short OCI (500-1k miles) and dump it again, replace oil and filter with your preferred lube and monitor consumption.
I've heard of using B12 Chemtool too--but it is more volitile and thinner. There are directions on the can for its use as well.
There are different chemicals people have used to soak the tops of the pistons, which allows the chems to pass over the top of the pistons, make contact with the piston rings and act as a solvent to dissolve the build-up that is keeping the rings from moving/sealing against the cylinder bore. I pulled the plugs and used 1-2 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil per cylinder and checked them a couple hours later. If the MMO empties from the cylinder, then you likely have a ring issue (worn vs stuck is unclear and you could have other issues, but this may help you) in that cylinder--retreat that cylinder as you can.
Don't exceed the recommendation on the MMO bottle for engine flush/crankcase use--I believe you can add 16oz to the crank case. Don't keep adding and adding and adding MMO to the cylinder, but if you have a tricky cylinder or two, you can retreat it 2-3x more to try to coerce those rings to loosen and do their job. Intact rings should keep the MMO in the cylinders. So, if the MMO remains in the cylinders for 12-24hrs, you'll have to remove it--you don't want to hydrolock your engine the next time you start her up.
MMO has directions on the bottle on how to use the stuff in your crankcase/use it as an oil flush. If you have a stuck ring, you're essentially dumping this stuff into your crank case, so follow those directions in leading up to changing your oil. Again, please make sure you get the extra MMO out of your cylinders before starting your engine. Once that's done, your engine will smoke the next time you turn on the car, but will subside--follow the MMO directions to prep for your oil change (idle vs drive gently), then dump the oil, put in an inexpensive (but appropriate) oil and run a short OCI (500-1k miles) and dump it again, replace oil and filter with your preferred lube and monitor consumption.
I've heard of using B12 Chemtool too--but it is more volitile and thinner. There are directions on the can for its use as well.
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