2007 Mazda CX-7, 2.3L Turbo, Motorcraft 5W-20

[Last_Z]

greejp,

Thanks for your continued support! I'm running Delo 15W-40...I've never seen the 10W-30 kind. I haven't run a 30W because I wanted a high detergency oil in the engine to scoop up (hopefully) some of the insolubles or whatever other junk there might be. I have thought about Mobil 1 5W-40....seems logical to me. Just now my local Wally got a batch of it. I also though about GC, but they don't have it at my local AZ. So, I am somewhat limited in my choices.
I guess the ultimate choice would be the 5W-40 from RLI; but that thing is thick as heck though!

I'd love to have a thick, synthetic, high detergency 5/10W-30 oil

 

[buster]

Z, RLI also comes in 5w/10w-30 grades. Same formula.

 

[Terry]

Sgt Z, If it was mine I would use the RLI BioSyn 0w20.

BTW I am... in a Mitsubishi and love it so far.

The 10w30 HD SHP BioSyn is awesome too. Run that in a Cammed, bored 302 Ford.

Their straight weight syns are capable of cold weather ops because of the syn bases.

 

[greenjp]

Z, if nothing else you are adventurous, and I salute you for that

Did you consider using LC or Auto-RX in your effort to scoop up insolubles and whatnot? What kind of filter are you using? Tried out a PureOne or EAO?

I assume your 15W-40 & 5W-20 mix was an effort to get that high detergency 10W-30 you're looking for? How long are you planning to run the mix?

I'll defer to Terry's expertise for a recommendation (I'm trying a non-spec'd weight in my Civic and the RLI 5W-40 in my Saab per his recommendations), but if it's available and you're so inclined I think the tried-and-true M1 5W-40 would be a good "experiment".

jeff

 

[buster]

I honestly don't think adding a thicker oil is the way to go. You're just going to loose hp and mpg. I'd use a really good 20wt oils such as Amsoil or try the RLI 0w-20. M1 5w-40 is way to thick. Won't hurt but it's not the best choice.

 

[greenjp]

Buster,
Not an argument (I don't know enough to argue

) but a question - why would a 5W-40 be too thick? If the engine is spec'd for 5W-30, couldn't an xW-20 be too thin as a 5W-40 is too thick? Especially considering the fuel diluting aspect of this engine?

jeff

 

[buster]

jeff, it would be fine actually. I was mainly suggesting that he try a better quality oil that would handle fuel dilution better, so he won't loose the performance advantage of the lighter wt. A 5w-40 would work fine, I just think it's kind of unnecessary.

 

[gwood]

What about a 10w30?

 

[buster]

Yeah, def. PP 10w-30 even. No/Less VII could help. Or so some think. I have no idea honestly but that seems to be the consensus....LOL

 

[Last_Z]

What the heck...my last reply didn't post!

Terry,
Are the other weights 0/5/10W-30 formulated with "YOUR" additive package? I want your formula in my car, not just the standard!


greenjp,
I do like to try different ways. I don't play with fire though (Z-Max, Slick 50, Marvel MO, etc)
I ran ARX between the 1st and 2nd UOA....in fact, 2nd UOA is the rinse cycle of the ARX.
The oil filter in this vehicle is of the canister type. Only Mazda and Fram make them. I already searched Amsoil for an EAO replacement, but they refered me to a wix product....I guess they make them too! I've only used the Mazda part.
The mix was intended to get something close to a 10W-30 with high detergents and friction modifiers. On paper at least, Delo has a superb additive package.
I've used Terry before and if next sample looks ugly again, I will forward it to him.
M1 5W-40 does look like a decent choice for this car and it's at the bottom end of the 40W scale.

buster,
As greenjp said, this engine is specd for 5W-30. I guess I grew a package (if you know what I mean) and have run 5W-20 twice. With the amount of fuel I'm getting, I won't do it again. Terry mentioned that PP os QS synthetic are good with fuel dilution....I might give that a try too!

 

[blackdiamond]

Last_Z - There are quite a few filters available. OEM, Motorcraft, WIX, K&N, Baldwin, Fram & Purolator all have applications. The cartridge is shared with several Ford and Mercury cars.

 

[Last_Z]

I didn't know that!

 

[chet2]

is there one auto company that reccomends additives or putting a non API product inside your engine? i dont think so...i just think they know more than we do when it comes to oil...look at the billions car companies and oil companies have spent improving their product...oil is a outstanding product, why mess with it?... i also hear these additives arent compatible with additives that are already in the oil

 

[Last_Z]

chet2,

I'll tell you what I know! I have added all sorts of additives from different reputable companies (Schaeffers, Valvoline, etc); I have even mixed different aftermarket additives and then dumped in the engine and have never had any adverse effect.
True that some additives such as Slick 50 and Z-max use a type of chemistry that could most definitely seize up an engine. What I have used, as well as most here is the concentrated type of additive that is already in the engine. Some of us look for less friction and more detergency within the engine, hence the aftermarket products. Rest assure, not all are bad!

As for the supposed money car manufactures spend on research...all they are doing is covering their tails, just incase you decide to throw differential fluid in your engine because you think it'll reduce wear.
As for oil companies....almost all of them make over the counter additives......they warn you not to use the other guy's because it's cutting into their profits. Pure marketing and nothing more!

 

[buster]

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post936293

Interesting thread kind of related.

 

[chet2]

i just know of so many people who add nothing to their oil w/ great results, it just seems like a waste of money...i used to use them, but they are not necesary...i remember a ford engineer on this site saying what a waste they were and calling them criminal

 

[Last_Z]

I can't argue with your point! It seems we add stuff because we can't see it on VOAs....when many times, the good stuff is "invisible", at least with these $20 analysis.

 

[Terry]

Z asked; "Terry,
Are the other weights 0/5/10W-30 formulated with "YOUR" additive package? I want your formula in my car, not just the standard!"

The RLI BIOSYN SHP HD 5w40 was the consulted answer to the Audi problem. I am no formulator, just a humble Tribological Analyst, Bill Garmier is THE Formulator at RLI!

He will work with me on custom tuning lubricants for customers who are prepared to pay for that service. I'll let the Audi results speak for the efficacy of that process.

I am fine tuning the 5w40 formula even further after post racing results recently provided by RI_RS4.

In your Mazda, the 0w20 is my choice and I am testing it now in our vehicles. So I use the stuff too.

We are seeing NO need to add anything to the formulas as far as additives.

Another benefit I am seeing is that the formulas seem to clean better without sacrificing the lubricity aspect better than ANY fully formulated lubricant except maybe the older diester formulas from 25-30 years ago. With the bio base being a significant part of the total package it stands to make sense to raise lubricious solvency.

I just began a test of using Auto-RX with the BIOSYN to determine if Franks chemistry would have some applicability to the formulas.

Another aspect of BIOSYN we are observing is that if the oil is used long drain and getting close to change time,adding relatively low levels of top up oil or exchange fluid can nearly restore the physical properties of the oil to like new condition. Another aspect of the BIO bases AND the patented add packs.

Terry

 

[Camu Mahubah]

...old diester formulas from 25 to 30 years ago...What oils/brands were these?...just curious...I like lubricating history...I found out the first Mobil 1 was a 5w20...learn something new almost everyday...

 

[buster]

Original Amsoil was a diester formulation developed by Hatco. Corp.

Terry, good to know. Thanks