2006 Toyota 4.0 V-6

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Hello,

A buddy of mine just bought a 2006 Toyota Tacoma with the 4.0 V-6. According to his owner's manual he is to use 5w-30 or lose warranty. The owner's manual says 10w-30 may be used in an emergency, but it should be changed out to 5w-30 as soon as possible.

Why are they putting this in the manual? Is it to satisfy the EPA or is there something special about this engine? Maybe it just gets bad karma from 10w-30?
wink.gif


-brian
 
Better start up protection. At 100 C, they both weigh about the same. In fact, 5W-30 is usually thicker at that temperature but 5W-30 is more fluid at colder temperatures than 10W-30. Be happy they aren't making you run 5W-20.
 
My 2001 Tacoma 3.4 says the same thing. I run 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter. Works great for me with twice a year oil changes. Just got back last night from pulling a popup camper 1500 miles thru the heat of west Texas and the mountains of New Mexico.
 
brian,
that is NOT what the manual says.
the manual states that 5w30 is recommended for both cold startup protection and summer operation. it also states that if 5w30 cannot be found, 10w30 may be used, but should be changed to 5w30 at the next service intervault.
at NO point does the manual state they will lose warrenty coverage and at NO point does the manual state they must change the oil asap.
 
quote:

Originally posted by brian:
Hello,

A buddy of mine just bought a 2006 Toyota Tacoma with the 4.0 V-6. According to his owner's manual he is to use 5w-30 or lose warranty. The owner's manual says 10w-30 may be used in an emergency, but it should be changed out to 5w-30 as soon as possible.

Why are they putting this in the manual? Is it to satisfy the EPA or is there something special about this engine? Maybe it just gets bad karma from 10w-30?
wink.gif


-brian


Read the book more carefully. Regardless of what's in there (btw, we still own an 01 Sequoia, and I had an 03 Camry, and those manuals do not say this), he will not "lose warranty" if he uses something else. Of course, it's probably best to stay with what the mfr recommends, but one need not worry if they use a fill of 10w-30 instead of 5w-30.

In the US, new car wtys are governed by the Moss-Magnuson Warranty Act (MMWA). Under the Act, if an owner makes a claim for wty repairs, and the mfr wants to deny it, the mfr must prove that something that the owner (or some other 3rd party did) caused the failure. If they can't prove this, then they must make (or pay for) the repair. The critical thing is the cause factor. Without it, the mfr will lose if the mess goes to court (and they will pay the owner's attorney's fees and costs. The mfr is NOT allowed to deny a wty claim as a "penalty" for not using the exact oil (or whatever service) the mfr recommends.

In addition, even if the owner used a wildly wrong oil and the mfr did prove that it caused the failure, the wty is still in effect as to any other covered failure; it is not "lost". Therefore, if AFTER having his engine claim denied, the owner could still have his radio or a door repaired under wty, since obviously, the poor oil choice did not cause those things to fail.

Also understand that the MMWA does NOT apply to so called "extended warranties". These are generally (check your state law carefully) nearly unregulated. If your contract requires you to hire a medium to hold a seance in your car while changing the oil, well, you'd better do it.

Don't believe the dealer and manufacturer scare mongering about wtys. Consult a lawyer in your jurisdiction promptly if you have (or even suspect you may have) a wty problem.
cheers.gif
 
Brian,

So you think the service manager is really going to measure the CCS viscosity @ -30C to determine if this is a 5w-xx or 10w-xx oil? LOL!

After the oil has been in service, it will thicken at low temps due to oxidation. So I think you're safe with 10w-30 instead of 5w-30.
smile.gif


TS
 
I already suggested to my buddy that he use 10w-30 instead of 5w-30. I have not seen the manual myself, just going by what he says. He may have got it wrong. Maybe one day I'll get to see the manual for myself.

sunruh what '06 Toyota manual have you seen?

-brian
 
quote:

Originally posted by brian:
I already suggested to my buddy that he use 10w-30 instead of 5w-30. I have not seen the manual myself, just going by what he says. He may have got it wrong. Maybe one day I'll get to see the manual for myself.

sunruh what '06 Toyota manual have you seen?

-brian


Respectfully, he did get it wrong, but really, that's beside the point. The car manufacturer can say pretty much anything they want to in the manual or the warranty pamphlet -- they can tell you that you'll fry for eternity in the underworld if you use the wrong oil if they want. On the other hand, to the extent that what they say tries to give you less rights than the Moss-Magnuson Act gives you, it is meaningless and without effect. Federal law sets the minimum standard here, and all attempts by the mfr to go below that are void and unenforceable, period. Please see my previous posts.
cheers.gif
 
Hey Ed,

Your points are respectfully taken. I have no dobuts that my buddy will use Mobil 1 5w-30 and think no more about it.
smile.gif


-brian
 
Funny thing is, many of my receipts don't state the weight of the oil I bought, just a number and a buck a quart. It would still be kind of hard to prove the weight of oil you used.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
Brian,

So you think the service manager is really going to measure the CCS viscosity @ -30C to determine if this is a 5w-xx or 10w-xx oil? LOL!

TS


Just going to say the samething....
wink.gif
 
The Mobil 1 10w-30 holds up better for a longer interval than their 5w-30.

-brian
 
Is your friend with a new Toyota going to use M1 for longer intervals than the relatively short 5000 mile warranty period?
 
With conventional oils, the conventional wisdom used to be the less shear-prone VII polymers, the less likely the oil would shear out of grade. Current VII polymers are even less shear-prone, though. Current conventional oils contain more Group II/Group II+ content, with some alleged to contain Group III content whether or not advertised as "synthetic blends". These hydrotreated oils have naturally higher viscosity indexes and are more shear stable than the formerly generally used Group I base oils. Full synthetics, with even higher viscosity indexes, additionally throw the conventional wisdom out on its ear. My own take - and some can and will take exception - is that Toyota is responding in their current owner's manuals to outside pressures to improve fuel economy by recommending viscosity grades that will limit parasitic losses. Given the sales volume Toyota has in North America, I can see the company's willingness to comply. Given the small individual variation of fuel useage in a single engine vis-a-vis permitted labled viscosity grade, it's of little importance except to the owner's personal mindset. Use whatever permitted viscosity grade floats yer boat.
 
I was mostly curious about the seriousness of the manual regarding the 5w-30 and wondering if it was driven by the EPA. My buddy will use Mobil 1 5w-30 for the interval specified in the manual for the warranty period.

-brian
 
quote:

Originally posted by brian:
Hello,

A buddy of mine just bought a 2006 Toyota Tacoma with the 4.0 V-6. According to his owner's manual he is to use 5w-30 or lose warranty. The owner's manual says 10w-30 may be used in an emergency, but it should be changed out to 5w-30 as soon as possible.

Why are they putting this in the manual? Is it to satisfy the EPA or is there something special about this engine? Maybe it just gets bad karma from 10w-30?
wink.gif


-brian


Through out the life of my Tacoma's 3.4L V6 warrenty ive always used 5W30 and still use it today. Redline for most of its life during warrenty and now AMSOIL Series 3000. Just find a good 5W30 and enjoy.
 
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