2006 Jeep Wrangler- Which Mobil 1?

[Andrewsreef]

I have the I-6 and want to use Mobil 1 due to availability and low cost, which grade should I choose? I want to stick with what the owners manual calls for so my choices would be: 10W-30 10W-30 Extended Performance 5W-30 Truck&SUV 5W-30 Which of these oils would provide the most protection? I live in hot florida and drive mostly around town and other short trips (9 miles to work each way daily + other short trips). Thanks Andrew

 

[Zaedock]

To be honest, I would run a 40wt in your 242. But, if you really want 10W30, then go with the thickest one.

 

[Eddie]

I used Mobil 1 10w30 & PureOne oil filter. The vehicle has 193,000 miles on it without problems. I lived the first 126,000 miles in Northern IL and the remainder here in FL. I think I would today use the 5W30 Truck & SUV oil which was not avail. in 1995,

 

[Gary Allan]

Usually you see better Fe numbers in UOA with heavier oils (40 weight). We've seen a few 30 weight UOAs with favorable Fe numbers lately. There may be something to the newer SM formulas that protect whatever is spitting the stuff out (some speculate the timing chain ). Who knows No matter what you run the thing will last a very long time without lube issues. I think that you've got the last offering from DC of this engine. It's slated for replacement by the 3.7 V6 next year, I believe. You've already got yourself a collectable

 

[MarkC]

Mobil 1 10W30 has about the worst UOA results for the 4.0 that have been posted here, at least as far as iron wear.

 

[TR3-2001SE]

I think the best oil would be the 0-40 mobil 1. It is not GF-4 rated but has all the long life ratings and should be great for this engine. The only other option that would give you the results you want would be using 4 quarts of 5-30 extended performance and 1 quart of 15w-50 extended performance. Check the UOA's for great results on this mixture. Regular Mobil 1 is not producing the great results in SM version that were produced in the SL version with the exception of the above.

 

[Eddie]

What else can I saw but, as stated my 1995 4.0 with Mobil1 10w30 is going strong at 197,000 miles. I never had a uoa though but the proof is in the results I think.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Thanks all for the info. My wife and I are really excited to own this truck. It is a real blast to drive. With that said it only has 200 miles on it. I was planning on changing the oil at 1,000 miles and running mobil 1 for the next 4000 and change again at 5,000. Does this sound ok? I was concerned the 10W-30 may be a little thin but I must say my experience is you get better gas mileage with 30weiths vs. 40weight. Also, I don't want to run a 40weight and have warranty issues. Which Mobil 1 product in a 30 weight is the thickest? Thanks Andrew

 

[Ryan00TJ]

If it was my TJ I would run the M1 [email protected] 5W-30. I've been seeing the 5qt jugs for $20 at Wallmart. My Bro's 98 4.0L UOA's showed lower numbers with 40W oils but I really don't think that shows the whole picture. B/C I know of many 4.0L's well over 200K on bulk 10W-30.

 

[Dark Jedi]

dont know why people are gun shy on 30 weight oils. I have a dodge 4.7 V-8 and run 5w-30 all season long. never had a problem. if you run 40w you will notice a loss in power. I am sure you will be fine to run 10w-30 in there. in the end its your engine run what you want. I wouldnt bother with the 40w unless your having porblems with the 30w.

 

[Gary Allan]

Rarely has anyone "had a problem" with any well designed engine with virtually any oil commonly available. The 4.0 and 2.5 are Fe shedders ..that's all. It's normal and doesn't appear to shorten their life in any way anyone can measure. Some, like me, resist this shedding. Some have had low Fe with 30 weights. No one would ever know that Fe was high without a UOA ..they may or may not replace the timing chain (or get limited blow-by) at 190-250k and who would ever blame it on using 30 weight oil ...the second or third owner ..or the original owner in the 14th year??? Not likely. I would imagine the T&SUV would be what you want in a 30 weight. That said ..you'll never notice a difference in fuel economy with oil selection from this engine. At least between a 30 and a 40 weight (if I didn't qualify it - someone would surely put 25-70 on only 1 mile trips in a Canadian winter to make me a liar) Look to your light weights for that. This thing produces most of it's power right off idle (about 1800) and it's flat from there to about 4000 rpm. Fuel economy is a contradiction.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Ok, thanks. I did notice in the owners manual that the recomendation of 10W-30 for the I-6 and 5W-30 for the 4 cylinder. I use the truck & SUV in my wife's toyota van and like it. As long as it meets the requirements, I will start using it. At what mileage can I switch to mobil 1? I was going to wait and put 1,000 miles on the factory fill. Thanks again. Andrew

 

[Gary Allan]

My 99 and 02 (4.0 and 2.5 respectively) have 5w-30 with differing max temps ..and 10w-30 with a "(PREFERRED)" after it. I believe that this is due to the interval length and the shearing that 5w-30's of those years (99-02) experienced. Remember, they never assume that you're going to use synthetics. They typically make no distinction between dino and synthetics (domestic design engines, anyway). I waited until about 2500 for synth in my wife's 4.0. Most agree that the present machining techniques make this wait unnecessary. I always do a cycle of accelleration/coast through the rpm range in 3rd gear for about 1/2 hour ..just out of habit.

 

[RKBA]

My 4.0 shows nice low Fe on SM rated Havoline 10W30; substantially lower then with Mobil 1 10W30. It also runs quieter with the Havoline in it. This engine is well known to outlast the rest of the Jeep while running conventional motor oil. Save your money, run a high quality dino and enjoy your Jeep for many miles to come.

 

[cbird]

I have a '99 Cherokee with the 4.0 I-6. I have used synthetic since the 5000 mile point (Mobil 1 10W30 or 5W30 until 210,000 miles with 5000 mile OCI, Amsoil 5w30 with 15,000 mile OCI from then until the current 251,000 miles). It still runs great - no engine problems ever, burns no oil at all, and still has the original oil pressure of 30 or 40 (the mechanic at the dealership noted that usually the oil pressure drops to 10 or so on the 4.0 engines he'd followed). My owner's manual recommends 10W30 in warm weather, such as yours, but the engine would probably outlast the chassis no matter what you use - if you really want to keep it a long time, look into rustproofing - the electrical charge types might be good, and require no goop be applied (not that rust is much of an issue in Jeeps, either). Changing your transmission fluid every 25,000 miles or so might be helpful, too - I've always done this and my transmission has required no attention at all, despite the 251,000 miles on it.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Cbird, I have the Rubicon Unlimited model with a manual transmission (6 speed). I think the dana axels and transfer case come with synthetic from the factory. Not sure about the 6 speed but I will have to check in time. I noticed the bottom of the truck (diffs and some of the suspension) already seem to have surface rust. Much different than my old Toyota which had some sort of undercoating. Who normal does the rustproofing as I plan on keeping this truck a long, long time. Your mileage is impressive and gives me lots of hope!!!! Thanks Andrew

 

[Zaedock]

Andrew, Up here in rusty New England, I have noticed over the years that the "rustproofing" is sometimes worse than nothing at all. Water and salt can get trapped inside (nothing is ever applied perfectly) and rust from the inside out. Just something to think about. As far as you diffs go, grab a $.99 can of WalMart flat black and respray them.

 

[Andrewsreef]

"As far as you diffs go, grab a $.99 can of WalMart flat black and respray them" Great idea, will do. Thanks Andrew

 

[bighead]

I know I'm late to this thread, but I couldn't help but notice you said you want to run Mobil 1 because of availability, which I can understand. But, low cost? Don't know about you but down here in Tx M1 is over $5 a quart...not exactly in the "low cost" catagory lol. I don't own a Jeep, never have. However from all I've read here, the I-6 does better on 40 wts, as previously stated. I seriously doubt there would be a warranty issue, but if you wanted to run a thicker 30 wt, the SM Mobil 1 5w-30 is thicker than the 10w-30. Don't know about the T&SUV though, it might be a hair thicker than the regular 5w-30. If warranty is an issue, you could always mix in a qt or 2 of the 0w-40 with the 5w-30 to give you a nice thick(er) mixture there...

 

[Andrewsreef]

"not exactly in the "low cost" catagory lol" Thanks for the info. I really like the results I have personally seen from Mobil 1. I realize others have had good luck with other oils, but for me it is cheap insurance (at around $4 a quart for me). Thanks Andrew