2006 Honda Accord front brake job...

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7,514
Location
FL, USA
I mentioned in a previous thread that my brakes are vibrating again. I just checked my service records and its been a year and a couple months since my front brakes were completely replaced. Now, I called the Honda dealer today and ONLY to RESURFACE rotors and install new pads it would be $309 out the door. Is this not high? So if they dont come down on the price, my second option would be to go back to the shop that did them a year ago, and ask for better parts. The current pads that are a year old do deposit more brake dust then whatever pads came on the car when I bought it. So the question, would it be ok to resurface the current one year old rotors and ask them to install better pads? Or would it be better to have them install new rotors and install better pads? Parts would come from Napa. I checked the price and the pads that were installed a year ago cost $39.99 for both. So I am guessing that was the lower grade? Not sure. Anyway, would upgraded napa pads make a difference? And should I ask for new rotors again...or would it be better to ask them to resurface the current year old ones? And the third option, the Honda dealer for resurfacing current rotors and installing new pads for $309? Thanks guys! You are always a help!
 
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3,888
Location
southern mo
Why not diy?they're very easy and you can save quite a bit of money. Have the rotors turned and install new oem equivalent pads or replace rotors with good quality parts. You could do it yourself for under 150 and it would take less than an hour.
 

gregk24

Thread starter
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7,514
Location
FL, USA
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Why not diy?they're very easy and you can save quite a bit of money. Have the rotors turned and install new oem equivalent pads or replace rotors with good quality parts. You could do it yourself for under 150 and it would take less than an hour.
I do not have the tools necessary, and I am not interested. Just asking about the options I listed in my original post, thanks for the suggestion though!
 
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142
Location
NH
I would go to a shop you trust and ask them to diagnose the vibration. No sense in throwing parts at the problem until you're sure what the problem is.
 

gregk24

Thread starter
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7,514
Location
FL, USA
Originally Posted By: Falken
309$ is highway robbery. New Wagner Thermoquiet pads are like 30$. But if a DIY is not possible...
Yeah, I thought that was high. Even for a dealer.
 
Messages
2,280
Location
WNY
buy centric rotors from amazon with akebono proact ceramic pads since you can't DIY, go to the nearest competent mechanic and have them do the job
 
Messages
2,280
Location
WNY
try re-bedding the brakes, do a few 60-70 to 30 stops in a row to heat the brakes up then drive around for 10-15 minutes consistently to cool them
 
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2,191
Location
VA
I wouldn't bother resurfacing your rotors. The problem will just recur. I'd buy some OE rotors. The only time I have ever had a problem with warped rotors/shuddering is when I replaced a set with aftermarket rotors. I typically never change rotors, have put 250k on a set of rotors more than once with no problem. So get some OE rotors or expect to continue havin this problem.
 
Messages
3,888
Location
southern mo
You could get the tools needed for under 30bucks. But since that's not an option you could go to a well known shop but expect to spend 200 or more all together. Figure 90 per hr plus part's.
 

gregk24

Thread starter
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7,514
Location
FL, USA
Originally Posted By: redhat
buy centric rotors from amazon with akebono proact ceramic pads since you can't DIY, go to the nearest competent mechanic and have them do the job
Ok, I did just that. Is this what you have on your Accord? I ordered Centric 120.40036 Premium Brake Rotor, and Akebono ACT914 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set. Can anybody confirm these are the right part numbers for my 2006 Honda Accord 2.4 LX. Front disc and rear drums. I will take them down to my local shop and hope they will agree to install them.
 
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5,445
Location
MTL, CANADA
If they are OEM Honda rotors I would resurface them. First find a good indy and have them check it out to findthe trouble. I had jobber rotors and pads for 2 yrs ( i drive 20k miles a year 50-50 hwy/city) and when i pulled them the pads and rotors were still half good..so i have a feeling something aint right...if it is ur pads..i would resurface the rotors (only if its cheaper than new ones). Find an indy place that is cool with you bringing your own parts. Akebono pads are excellent and last. Id likely go with wagner rotors if u buy new.
 
Messages
2,280
Location
WNY
Yes lubrication is very important with the brake system. But besides lube also make sure the shop uses silicone paste on the slide pins. Your slide pens come in direct contact with rubber boots that keep dust and other foreign debris's out of the slide area. A lot of shops will just use plain old high-temperature grease usually made from petroleum. Petroleum comes in contact with rubber and makes the rubber swell therefore your slide pin boots or bushings, if you have those at the end of your pins, could swell and cause your brake caliper to not flot properly. Silicone does not make the rubber components swell. I also prefer to use 3M copper or anti-seize/brake lube on the pad ears where they sit on the caliper bracket. Yes, I have the centric premium rotors and the akebono pro act pads at all four corners on my accord. They are quality brake components, however I attribute my 40,000+ miles on these brake parts and excellent breaking to the fact that I tear apart the brakes every spring and completely lube them. A good cross reference for the centric rotors and akebono pads is Tire Rack. Doublecheck there to make sure your part numbers are correct.
 
Messages
1,852
Location
Laramie, WY
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Why not diy?they're very easy and you can save quite a bit of money. Have the rotors turned and install new oem equivalent pads or replace rotors with good quality parts. You could do it yourself for under 150 and it would take less than an hour.
I do not have the tools necessary, and I am not interested. Just asking about the options I listed in my original post, thanks for the suggestion though!
unless your an old man, that's a poor excuse for a BITOGer! you mean you don't have a 14mm,17mm,19mm socket? and a ratchet with a metal pipe to increase the level arm to break some bolts? omg!
 
Messages
457
Location
virginia
Just bought the same combination (centric premium rotors/Akebono pads) for my daughters CRV. About $112. The Honda dealer wanted about $260 for the OEM parts. As far as labor, the dealer will install my parts for about $150. (Just got a coupon from another Honda dealer and $119. Will see if they match.) Will look into an independent shop for the work as well.
 
Messages
24,187
Location
CA
The job was likely not done properly. You will need to check rotor runout and index the rotors as needed to get runout as low as possible. If you do not address this issue, the issue WILL reoccur. The Honda dealer may be using an on-car lathe, which will usually eliminate most runout issues.
 

gregk24

Thread starter
Messages
7,514
Location
FL, USA
Originally Posted By: The Critic
The job was likely not done properly. You will need to check rotor runout and index the rotors as needed to get runout as low as possible. If you do not address this issue, the issue WILL reoccur. The Honda dealer may be using an on-car lathe, which will usually eliminate most runout issues.
I dont know what "runout" is, but I would like to learn. So is checking runout something I could do? Because a whole lot of people are telling my to DIY this project, but then the other half is saying I need to check runout or its going to happen again.
 
Messages
24,187
Location
CA
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: The Critic
The job was likely not done properly. You will need to check rotor runout and index the rotors as needed to get runout as low as possible. If you do not address this issue, the issue WILL reoccur. The Honda dealer may be using an on-car lathe, which will usually eliminate most runout issues.
I dont know what "runout" is, but I would like to learn. So is checking runout something I could do? Because a whole lot of people are telling my to DIY this project, but then the other half is saying I need to check runout or its going to happen again.
Most shops and DIYers do not take the time to do the job properly. They often blame parts and do not understand the science behind the issues. I can't get the copy/paste feature to work on my phone, but Google rotor runout and there are explanations. Youtube also has videos. You will need a wire wheel to throughly clean and level the hub flange, as well as some conical washers, torque stick and an impact gun to install the lug nuts before checking the runout.
 
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