2006 HD Sporster 1200 Mobil 1 V -Twin 3,000 miles

[Chris B.]

Hi all!
This is my 1st UOA on my 2006 Sporster.
Total miles on bike 8,000
3,000 on oil
I did a short OCI with M1 V-Twin at 4,000 miles to 5,000 total engine miles and then had the 5,000 miles service done and put fresh M1 in it and ran it 3,000 to 8,000 total miles so this is really the 2nd M1 oil change.

Bike runs like a champ with ZERO problems so far. It did burn a little less then 1/2 qt in the 3,000 miles....is this normal? I did not top it off as I wanted tosee how much it would drop in the 3,000 miles it was in use.

This UOA/universal average

Aluminum 4/6

Chromium 0/1

Iron 8/11

Copper 18/15 Seems high?

Lead 2/3

Tin 4/1 Seems high?

Molybdenum 84/22

Nickel 1/1

Potassium 3/1

Boron 183/180

Silicon 7/11

Sodium 7/10

calcium 2460/1848

Magnesium 38/436

Phosphorus 1267/883

Zinc 1674/1076

Barium 1/0

SUS Viscosity 98.7 (should be 82-95)

Flashpoint 430

Fuel, water, antifreeze 0

Insolubles 0.1

TBN 6.7!!!!

Blackstone comments:
CHRIS: Wear looked good in the initial sample from your Harley. Even with this being a new engine,
wear looks great and has already settled down to average levels. The viscosity read on the high side
but is still okay for a 20W/50. The sample was free of fuel or moisture. Insolubles (oil oxidation due to
heat, use, and blow-by) were quite low at 0.1%, showing good oil filtration. Silicon was low so your air
filter is working well. The TBN read 6.7, showing lots of active additive left. If you don't mind the high
viscosity try 4000 miles next time.

I'm very happy with these results! I learned to ride on this bike and I'm sure I beat on it learning! Seems like it likes this Mobil 1 V-Twin oil and looks like a solid engine!

Comments welocme!!!!

 

[02zx9r]

From my untrained eye, all looks ok. The motor is still breaking in (i believe).

I want to try the y twin 20/50, seems to always have high amounts of zddp and just overall a very good (expensive) oil.

 

[Chris B.]

Does anyone know why it burned 1/2 qt and is that normal for this engine?

Also why is copper high and it thickened up a tiny bit...is that ok too?

 

[wizzells]

The 1/2 qt of consumption is nothing to be alarmed about. It is very common for this drivetrain. In fact, to only use 1/2 qt in 3000 miles is pretty good!
I would expect the copper level to come down as you get more and more miles on the bike. The wrist pin bushings as well as cam cover cam bushings are brass. Probably nothing to be alarmed about and likely just from the engine settling in through the break in period.

 

[Chris B.]

Quote:

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The 1/2 qt of consumption is nothing to be alarmed about. It is very common for this drivetrain. In fact, to only use 1/2 qt in 3000 miles is pretty good!
I would expect the copper level to come down as you get more and more miles on the bike. The wrist pin bushings as well as cam cover cam bushings are brass. Probably nothing to be alarmed about and likely just from the engine settling in through the break in period.

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So what does brass show up as in a UOA? Does it have something to do with copper? Thanks!

 

[Chris B.]

Kind of dead in here!

So does anyone have any advice to get even lower wear or is this about as low as it will get.....the M1 V-Twin as good as it gets?

 

[fuel tanker man]

Brass is a copper and zinc alloy...

And since you ask, I'll suggest this:

Try two parts Valvoline VR1 20W50, and one part VR1 straight 60 weight. This should begin as a 25W55 (or thereabout) and shear to a heavy 40 weight in about 3000 miles. Lots of zinc and phos in that oil... and I think your wear numbers will look better, and you'll save enough money to pay for another UOA.

Dan

 

[Titan]

The only thing I worry about is the thickening. Since Mobil V-twin sheared like a sheep in my bike, I'm wondering if yours also sheared, and now it is showing the death-thickening that occurs as oil ages. The TBN doesn't suggest that. However, mistakes are made...maybe it's not that thick, maybe the TBN is incorrect, maybe we all fret too much about all this oil stuff, I don't know for certain. BUT, I do know, in my bikes, Mobil V-Twin didn't hold up well at all....it sheared quickly....not just by UOA, but, shift "feel" confirmed the shearing.

 

[unDummy]

Looks excellent, stick with this oil and the 3k interval.

Since winter is coming, I wouldn't bother switching to a non-synthetic. And, wear is minimal enough that you shouldn't worry about lowering it.

What oil filter PN?

A 50wt oil falls into the ~16-22cst range. This oil is 20cst. It is spec'd at ~18cst. So, either you got a thick batch or lab accurracy is off a little. It aint worth worrying about since wear is minimal, TBN is excellent, insolubles low(good filter),.....

Why change anything?

 

[Chris B.]

Quote:

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Looks excellent, stick with this oil and the 3k interval.

Since winter is coming, I wouldn't bother switching to a non-synthetic. And, wear is minimal enough that you shouldn't worry about lowering it.

What oil filter PN?

A 50wt oil falls into the ~16-22cst range. This oil is 20cst. It is spec'd at ~18cst. So, either you got a thick batch or lab accurracy is off a little. It aint worth worrying about since wear is minimal, TBN is excellent, insolubles low(good filter),.....

Why change anything?

---

Thanks! The oil filter was a standard chrome Harley filter....who makes these and are the good? Made by Wix by any chance?

 

[G-MAN]

Quote:

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Quote:

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Looks excellent, stick with this oil and the 3k interval.

Since winter is coming, I wouldn't bother switching to a non-synthetic. And, wear is minimal enough that you shouldn't worry about lowering it.

What oil filter PN?

A 50wt oil falls into the ~16-22cst range. This oil is 20cst. It is spec'd at ~18cst. So, either you got a thick batch or lab accurracy is off a little. It aint worth worrying about since wear is minimal, TBN is excellent, insolubles low(good filter),.....

Why change anything?

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Thanks! The oil filter was a standard chrome Harley filter....who makes these and are the good? Made by Wix by any chance?

---

HD filters are made by Champion.

 

[kballowe]

Nice bike.

Looks a bit like mine....

 

[Chris B.]

Quote:

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Nice bike.

Looks a bit like mine....

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Sweet! Where did you get those custom parts and what pipes are those? How loud are they?

I love Yellow! It's different, not too many around. Did you do a UOA on yours yet?

 

[wizzells]

V&H sideshots...very loud!

 

[kballowe]

Bike is yellow pearl (factory HD color)

Those are Vance & Hines Sideshots. Yes, they are loud, especially if you remove the baffles.....

However, you can get those quiet baffles and then they're quite respectable.

The air cleaner is a Kuryakyn "V-Twin" breather.

Mustang wide vintage solo seat. Harley solo rack.

Memphis Shades gradient yellow sport windshield, cut and reshaped with the trusty old Dremel tool....

 

[Chris B.]

Quote:

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Bike is yellow pearl (factory HD color)

Those are Vance & Hines Sideshots. Yes, they are loud, especially if you remove the baffles.....

However, you can get those quiet baffles and then they're quite respectable.

The air cleaner is a Kuryakyn "V-Twin" breather.

Mustang wide vintage solo seat. Harley solo rack.

Memphis Shades gradient yellow sport windshield, cut and reshaped with the trusty old Dremel tool....

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How comfortable is the Mustang seat compaired to the factory seat? How does Corbin compair to Mustang? Do you mine me asking how much your seat was? Thanks!!!

 

[G-MAN]

I've got the vintage wide solo on mine and I love it. I can ride 100+ miles with no problem. With the stock seat I was ready to get off after 20 miles.

 

[kballowe]

Yeah - I can't remember how much the seat cost but if you shop around on the internet you can get a good price. It's very comfortable. I like the Mustang seats better than the Corbin seats. The Corbin seats just seem hard. I know they have a gel pack in there somewhere but still I believe that the Mustang seats are more comfortable. They all take a little bit to "break in".