2006 Dodge Diesel Need Help On By Pass Filter !

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Sep 23, 2006
Florida,Myakka City
Hello Gents, New Here But So Far i Like what i See. Any Ways I Need Your Help on The Best By Pass Filter i Can Buy,Amsoil Said There Unit Will Not Work ,So I'm a Little Worried About The Rest Of The By Pass Filters Out There. Your Input is Needed ! I Would Like to Use a Duel System (remote) Oil i Use is Long Rider If That Helps . Best Regards, Col.
Col, The newer Cummins diesels are more sensitive to slight fluctuations in oil pressure, which can be a result of installing the Amsoil dual remote bypass filter. This triggers a warning light from the software installed on this engine. Amsoil has worked closely with Cummins engineers and determined (through actual testing), that this does not affect lubrication. (Amsoil released a Tech Services Bulletin to their dealers about this issue). However to minimize customer concerns, Amsoil is now recommending their single remote bypass filter for the 2004.5 and later model year engines. I believe what you want is the BMK-11 with the new fittings that make it easier to tap into a source of oil and return it to the engine. Mike Sparks - one of our Amsoil sponsors - can assist you in getting the correct hardware. Mike and I talk on the phone from time to time and he knows his stuff.... TS
I just sent a Cummins Fleetguard housing to a guy for a Dodge Cummins. the stock element for this filter is chopped newspapers. I convert them to take two rolls of Scott Center pull paper towels. It holds about 4 gallons of oil. It is a powerful filter because the depth of the filter element and the size advantage. The Motor Guard filter is the easiest and least messy to change of the filters that clean oil. It fits under the hood. I normally like to leave the full flow filter where it is and change it about every 2 years. You can get a full flow filter relocation kit from Perma-Cool that takes a Ford 3/4-16" filter. Put a Perma-Cool sandwich adapter on the mount and run the lines to the Motor Guard for a dual remote system. Be careful about using heavy duty hose with a dual remote system. The ID of the fittings may be too small. If you have a oil pressure gauge and it reads good you did OK. Ralph
I haven't seen under the hood on a new one yet, but the earlier Dodge Cummins had a spare/2nd pressure port easily accessible right on the filter mount. Perfect place to tap for for just about any type of custom bypass filter setup you could imagine. If you have any DIY skills at all this is the way to go. Avoid the spin-on junk from Amsoil and Oilguard. The elements are too expensive and they don't filter as well as plain old cellulose. Get a MG750 from Ralph or do something totally different like I did with a Gulf Coast. See my thread about that earlier in the forum.
Col., Follow the advice of TooSlick on here. I have a BMK-11 on my Ford PSD and really like it. I would recommend the stand alone bypass -vs- the dual remote.
I also like the Amsoil BMK-11 with the EaO bypass filter. It removes soot and particle matter down to 1 micron. It lasts up to 50K and is easy to replace and install. I personally would use the EaO 90 (about a quart). Use a good Aeroquip or that style hose. Make it your self or have them made for you. Use a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch hose. Mount your BMK-11 where you can spin off the Bypass filter easy. Tap into your oil source and install the male brass fitting. Find where your going to return the oil to and install a male brass fitting there to. Run the hose from the oil source to the inlet side of the filter housing, and run the hose from the outlet side of the filter to your return oil location male fitting. 4-male Aeroquip type 3/8's or 1/4 inch fittings. 4-Female Aeroquip type fittings...one for each end of hose. Aeroquip hose Tube of teflon paste for fitting sealing. I have build 4 systems around this setup and they work wonderfully. I would purchase the filter head and filter only and buy the rest of the parts from a hose distributor or trucking parts warehouse.
I would do exactly what Largecarman and go hogs go suggested, but I would use a different filter. I would order filter base (part # 24755) from any place that carries Wix filters (NAPA or Champion). Then I would get a hastings or baldwin filter B50. The base will cost about $25, and the filters are under $6 at most places. They will filter down to 2um nominal, and are readily available compared to any other spin-on offering. The port is still there on the new cummins engines. I beleive it is a 1/8 NPT port.
I also like the B50 Baldwin filters. You can also get the larger version the B164 which is a full 7 1/8" long and both have a built in 0.065" restrictor built into the filter to keep flow down (better filtration) and inasmuch, don't take more than about 10% of the oil pumped at any time. I bought my last 3 B50 Baldwin filters for $4.30 each. Now that ain't too shaby!! And they have great nominal micron ratings as well.
A good micron rating is 1/10th of one micron. If after you install a bypass filter your oil still gets dirty you didn't do too good. On the plus side a filter that doesn't clean oil will go farther between changes. When I was young it was explained to me that the filter should get dirty and the oil should stay clean. It made sense to me. At the time the top two filters in the world were the Frantz and Motor Guard. Nothing much has changed. There are a few filters that can clean oil as good but they are TP copies at a higher cost than TP. TP filters have served me well for over 40 years. Ralph
I really don't want to start a big debate on what is considered "clean" vs "dirty" oil.. But I have to ask.. If this baldwin filter could literally filter out the red blood cells (8um) from the plasma in my blood, how exactly could one say that it is not cleaning the oil? I obviously agree that 1/10um is better then 2um, but at what point to reason and cost force you to say "enough is enough." I would run a frantz of oilguard system, but I'm not a fan of pulling hot oil soaked rolls of toilet paper out of my truck and dropping them in a bucket.. I prefer to take a large zip-lock bag, swing it over the filter, and then drop the filter in the bag and seal it when I'm done.. Absolutely no mess, I do it every 5k miles (I could go longer, I choose not to), and it costs me about 1/6th of the cost of an Amsoil unit. B164: I looked into that guy too.. I don't think the darn thing will fit where I have my current b50 mounted, but I just need to get my hands on 1 and see for sure.
Diesel soot runs around 1-3um. 8um is not cleaning it out. Pretty simple, at least from a numbers comprehension standpoint. There is no point at which "enough is enough" for me in certain pursuits. Just a personal thing, I suppose. The is very little distinction between pulling a hot, oil-soaked roll of TP vs. pullng a hot, messy cannister. Just an analogy the anti-TP crowd liikes to bandy about, IMHO. OBTW, I usually wait for the filter to cool and drain before changing it so it is not hot, and even on occasion does not spill a drop, without the aid of any zip-lock bags or other frivilous amenities. I think you will find a roll of TP costs and even smaller fraction of the Baldwin filter. Go ahead and keep deluding yourself, if that is what turns your crank.
I see. Well, you got me nailed on that one man.. I'm extremely deluded about the cost and convience factors.. My dilusion begins with the cost factors: Lets take a motorguard and the hasting b50 style filter and compare them.. On the website, a motorguard is $130. Plus the cost of hoses, fittings, and everything else you need.. Lets ignore those costs since you are required to do those no matter if it is the motorguard or the b50. A roll of TP costs what.. 50 cents? So.. $130.50 for TP filter. The base with the correc threads was $25.34 and the filters are $4.60 each. We will call it an even $30? If you started at 0 miles and drove to 100,000 miles.. TP filters every 3,000 (.50) B50 every 10,000 ($5) Your cost at 100,000 miles for the TP is: $16.50 Your cost at 100,000 miles for the B50 is: $50 Add that back to the initial costs.. TP = $147 B50 = $80 BAH!! Have to do some work. Why does work always interfer with my play time... I will come back to this post.. Hold all thoughts.
0.1µ is an excellent micron rating. Our Clariflow membrane filters (we have also used Pall), filter the wine on the final moment before going into the bottle filler at 0.45µ We consider it a "Sterile" filter, and as such is steam autoclaved for 20 minutes before being mounted in a steamed stainless steel filter housing. Now I know soot is very small and if hard can cause abrasion and metal polish. But, I have also seen a chart on the wear factor of engines from 10µ on down to 1µ and it is an interesting graph. Above those numbers, in the 15-30µ range you see the graph of engine wear climbing, but at 10 and lower it does decline, but at a VERY small amount, IN PROPORTION, I might add to that which was 15µ and above. Bacteria is 2µ . And, just 1 micron is equivalent to 0.000039" dia size. That is referred to 39 Millionths of an inch. Now somewhere in there around 3 microns the graph is moving so slowly down, in terms of engine wear, that you have to wonder about how much you really are preventing wear. If you save 2% wear on the engine from going from 3 micron to 1 or 0.1 micron are you really needing that extra 2% (or whatever it might be in terms of engine wear reduction) for the life of your engine? Your underbelly rust from adverse road protection of ice in the winter may be more damaging to your vehicle and pocketbook than the minuscule little extra wear benefit of sub micron filtration. Toilet paper is cheap, but I have also seen pictures of oil channeling in TP filtration. An oil channel does no filtration, and therefore is taking away from the conceptual and mechanical advantages of small particle filtration that you started with. I have seen in other forums PC counts of filtrations, of normal full flow oil filters. Go to this thread: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=727892 and check out the particle count of the Purolator full flow in the greater than 2µ range. Only 782 from 2 to 5µ. Folks, that's not very many! The real trick is slowing oil down through a decent filter system, and allowing the depth filter to do it's job. Bypass filtration, in any choice of flavors (brands) can do that and whether it is 2 micron, 3 micron or 0.1 micron is not as important as constant steady flow rate in the 1/2 gal or less per minute range. One other thing to consider in 3,000 vs 10,000 mile OCI between TP and spin on, is every 3,000 miles you are basically loosing 1 quart (more or less) of oil. If it's synthetic, like GC, Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc don't forget to take that into your total final equations. Just some food for thought this weekend. BTW, to Col. Welcome.. I hope you find our candor and varied views enlightening.
Well I can't figure out how the ________ to even edit my old post.. I wanted to at least fix my spelling. I'm going home for the night. And the winemaker basically made every other point I was going to make. Thank you for your time in this matter.
Let's look at this another way. First, 3000 is a little low on TP changes, There were pics posted earlier of I think a 5K change on a V-8. Next, $130 for the motorguard is high, I know what they are advertised at, but watch ebay. Motorguard Lets see what happens in 10 hours. I got my Motorguard for I think $60 on Ebay with more than enough fittings. This one comes with fittings and hose. I think that $60-$70 is a better price if you are trying, and at that price the numbers match up much better. Plus, I think that a roll of TP is much easier to read than a cut open filter.
Col - indeed the dual remote is not the ticket for your rig. They simply do not flow enough oil for large engines. I've seen it happen more than once! (Glad TS is acknowledging it now ). MSparks or I will be glad to help you with the Amsoil BMK-11 and fittings. Click around there for other user ideas as well. Thanks!
Channeling? Mess? Frequent changes? High cost? OMG, I cannot believe the horrible mistakes I have made in choosing the method which BEST filters my engine oil. Oh, woe is me. What ever was I thinking? No, wait a minute. That is what I would be thinking if I actually believed the non-factual, non-experience based, imagination-induced ramblings of certain posters above. Now that I have my wits about me I am virtually certain I am using and have actually experieneedd and documented the facts I presented. I guess facts and reality just don't matter once a mind in made up.
Quite simply: Imagination-induced marketing hype. Believe it if you must. Then get your wallet out and start paying into their holiday bonus fund for those superior proprietary string elements. What a load of ________...
(Why can't we edit a post anymore?) Ever heard the old saying "in order for you to succeed, others musr fail?" There is a grain of truth to that in the marketing business and politicians do it in smear campaigns all the time. It is alot easier to spread false rumors about the competition than come up with positive, scientific-based proof of your own superiority. Plain old human nature applied to bypass filter marketing, is all.
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