2005 Odyssey - Comments?

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Just got a 2005 Odyssey EX with the copper shedding V6. I've researched this and came up with the following:

1. Leave break-in oil in until 3750 miles.
2. Change out oil and filter at 3750 miles with OEM (Fram built!) filter and Honda 5W-20 (Exxon Super-Flow) oil.
3. At 7,000 miles or so, switch to Mobil 1 0W-20 staying with OEM filters at 5,000 mile oil plus filter change intervals.

I must admit, I'm very tempted to go with Mobil 1 5W-30 for the summer months.

Any comments?

P.S. - I plan on a tranny drain (partial, 3.2 quarts out of 8.5 total) every oil change using Honda AT fluid.
 
I hear yah! My last new car, a Mazdz Protege5, I dropped out the oil at 500 miles with dino (switched transaxle to Redline MT90 then as well), then 2500 miles (dino), then at 5,000 miles switching to Mobil 1.

However, this is a Honda with the break in oil. Curiously, I can't find anything in the owner's manual about leaving the oil in until first scheduled maintenance.

Finally, I'd like to go with dino for the first 5,000 miles before going with synthetic as I think there's a case to be made that wear numbers will be lower in later years as a result.

Still can't decide on whether to go to M1 5W-30 in the summer but will probably stick with M1 0W-20 as it has the boosted moly which the hondas seem to like.
 
As for the Honda break-in oil, this has been discussed several times before. The only difference is the higher moly. I suggest using a higher moly 5w-20 for break-in, such as Pennzoil & Chevron/Havoline. There's a few VOA's here that show some impressively high moly numbers for those 5w-20s mentioned above. The "keep it in the crankcase" thing that Honda tells it's owners for the factory fill is just overblown in my book.

As for using 0w-20 or 5w-30 M1, it's really a toss up as I see it. The 0w-20 is on the high side of the scale and the 5w-30 is on the lower sided of the scale. They're both VERY good oils and very close in viscosity. I would suggest using the cheaper of the two.

Filters? I bought the OEM filter. Then I bought a SuperTech from Walmart. I saw no differences in construction, weight, etc...considering I'm not going over 7500 miles per OCI, I can't see purchasing the evidently run-of-the-mill OEM filter that's $4 more than the same ST model. I'm sure there's better out there, M1 for example, but without an extended OCI, I can't justify it's price.

How much different did your Protege trans shift after you put the Redline in it? Auto or Stick?
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The P5 is a manual. Shifting not much different with Redline. I mostly use Redline in the belief it will perhaps allow longer transmission life and probably pay for itself (or nearly so) through improved mileage.

In the Maxima 5-speed, switching to Redline at 50k miles didn't provide much difference. However, on a cold winter morning, shifting is a bit smoother while the transaxle is still cold. The Max has a bit of an issue on some of the transaxles so using Redline may also be a situation where every little bit helps. At 115k miles, no problems so far with transaxle fluid change out every 30k miles.

Back to the Ody, thanks for your advice. It is however, for me, a bit of a leap of faith to drop the break-in oil out of a Honda. Any other vehicle and I'm right there with you. Odds are, either route will work.

I was glad to get the vehicle with only 4 miles on the odo. I did the speed up, down shift routine for engine break-in for the first 25 miles to seat the rings.
 
ex_MGB, I have the same question ToyotaNSaturn asked ... why are you sticking with the Honda OEM filters? Especially with the Fram, if you wanted to use Honda filters I'd go with the S2000 filter. This should fit your Ody; this filter has been examined by many and determined to be of much higher quality than the Honda "Fram" filters. Personally I use a WIX 51334 on my 01 Ody. WIX is a very high quality filter and can be bought for less (typically) than a Honda OEM filter.
 
I think you are quite correct in your assessment. However, there was a post about this where the poster pointed out the following:

1. The Honda Fram is made to Honda specs and seems to be a cut above bottom of the line Frams (though it has the "cardboard" end caps).

2. The poster had very good results with Fram filters over the years in his vehicles.

3. No one can prove that a Fram filter versus any other filter ever led to increased engine wear.

I am of the school of thought that one oil filter in a properly manufactured, well maintained and broken in gasoline engine is as good as the next as long as cold start flow meets the vehicle manufacturers specifications.

I have no doubt that the filters recommended in lieu of the Honda Fram will provide excellent service. However, I also have no doubt that the Honda Fram will not cause increased engine wear and since the price differential in filters is of no real consequence to me, I have no driver to change my habit of using OEM filters on all my vehicles.

Now, once a vehicle gets to 150,000 miles, I'll probably switch to cheapest oil/filter combo meeting manufacturer specs I can find at Walmart. Even then, I'll probably stick with syn oil for the peace of mind for extended drain intervals.
 
I have an '00 Odyssey and '03 Civic. I like your original plan of leaving the original oil in there for 3750 miles - that's what I did. With the Civic, I changed to M1 5W-30 at the first oil change.

For what it's worth, I have always gone to the Honda dealer. I bring my M1 oil and use their oil filters.

I know that my Odyssey 4-speed tranny and your 5-speed tranny have issues, but how can a partial oil change on the tranny at every engine oil change be helpful? I don't think that the problems are oil-related.
 
quote:

Originally posted by guile:
ex_MGB, I have the same question ToyotaNSaturn asked ... why are you sticking with the Honda OEM filters? Especially with the Fram...

Not to belabor this issue because it is slightly off topic, but not all Honda OEM filters are made by Fram. The Filtech filters are quite good and can be found in the US. I assume the Odyssey uses the same filters that the Accord V6s use.
This thread has some info.
 
Tones, we may be slightly off topic, but only slightly.
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My thinking is if a $2.07 SuperTech filter provides just as good filtration and performance as the OEM filter for $5-6, why use the more expensive OEM filter?
 
T-N-S
I respect your decision, but for me it is more a matter of peace of mind. I do not know much about the quality control of the ST filters, nor do I know for a fact that the ST filters are "just as good". I guess it is worth $2.50 per oil change (~$10.00 per year max) to know that I have an oil filter made specifically for my vehicle. I also happen to like the filter. It is good quality construction, more depth to the media (instead of just flat paper), silicon ADBV, and it is wrapped in plastic and sealed up.
 
Tones, thanks for the link! I had spent two hours boning up on this and missed the most excellent thread you posted. Funny thing, I just did an oil/filter change on all my vehicles. I purchased from my local Honda dealer 2 filters for my '89 Accord LXi (182k miles I bought for $1,000 at 150k miles) and 2 for my new Odyssey (all were the same). Got underneath the Accord with the filter wrench and realized no way was that going to fit. I thought the parts counter person made a mistake so I left the old filter in. Oh well, the little bit of M1 10W-30 with 3500 miles mixed in with the fresh 5W-30 won't hurt anything. This car is an excellent candidate for some Supertech filters and dino.

If Honda recommended the S2000 filter for the Odyssey, I'd use that.

I've a feeling Honda engineers, given that a filter does not fail catastrophically, don't get too wrung up over a filter in terms of filtering out anything but the extremely rare large wear particles so long as there is good flow.

In terms of start-up flow, one wonders just how well a typical ADBV works in a scenario where a car sits for 2-3 days in the summer heat and whether the smaller filter doesn't provide quicker flow to the valve train and in the long run less engine wear. Perhaps this is why Honda went with a smaller retro-fit filter?

Bottom line, I believe that Honda can spec and Honeywell can build a filter that works and one that Honda is willing to stake their reputation on.

As to automatic fluid change out. The owner's manual calls for 4 drain and fills (obviously with short drives in between) to achieve a scheduled transmission fluid change out. Yes, there remains a small residual amount of old fluid.

The beauty of the Honda automatic drain/fill is that it is very easy compared to dropping the pan on something like my Chevy Astro. There's a drain bolt and fill bolt with a dipstick to measure the fluid level, just like engine oil.

My thought is to do a complete change-out at first oil change and every 30,000 miles. In between, I'll do just one drain/fill at all oil changes on the theory that a fresh dose of additives is a good thing as well as wiping clean the magnet on the drain plug. In other words, while you are under the car anyhow with your tools doing an oil change. doing the tranny as well is no big deal and the cost for 3.2 quarts of Honda ATF is only $10, well worth the peace of mind.

I hope Honda has fixed their 5-speed tranny problem. In the 2nd generation Ody they retro-fitted a lubrication jet in the fill plug to give additional lubrication to some (2nd?) internal component.

I think one of the biggest challenges in modern vehicles is keeping the transmission healthy.

[ December 27, 2004, 09:06 AM: Message edited by: ex_MGB ]
 
Glad that you won't neglect the ATF.
Mechanical problems and issues accelerate with poor fluid conditions.

I've recommended the ATF drain/refill at every oil change to everyone I know. With this, there is never a need for a complete flush. The ATF always stays clean. An ounce of lubegard red or platinum added to each quart will help maintain transmission cleanliness and shift quality.

I find that dealers are more friendly(with regard to warranty work) when OEM components(along with logbooks or receipts) are in the vehicle. If a little peace of mind is needed, use OEM oil/air/fuel filters.
 
"If Honda recommended the S2000 filter for the Odyssey, I'd use that."

I did get the go ahead from my dealer to use the S2000 oil filter in my Pilot, (same engine as the Odyssey). They are almost twice as expensive as the normal Honda filters.

I had reservations about using the tiny OEM filter. The counter guy said they had a couple of cases of the old and larger P305 filters for the service tech's personal use. After some negotiation the parts guy let me buy six P305 filters. After I use them up, I'll be switching over to the S2K filter.
 
I'm using the PCX-004 (S2000) filter on our 02 Accord V6. Works fine.

There is an alternative strategy you might consider for your Odyssey, ex-MGB. I use Pennzoil 5W-20, adding 5-6 ounces of Schaeffers 132 and 3 ounces of Lube Control, plus one ounce of LC every 1,000 miles. Had an outstanding UOA this summer with that combo, which costs much less than Mobil 1. It's a modified "MolaBrew".

The xW-20 weight oils are working fine in Honda V6 engines based on the UOAs. Some people prefer the xW-30s and are doing fine with them also.
 
That be me, using 5W-30 M1 in our Accord. Yes, there is a lubricating problem on the transmission on the newer 5 speed automatic. What they did is installed a something like an oil injector on top of the second gear observation hole. For some models, this has been done by the dealer and I think by now, it's done at the factory. It's funny, Honda has been known for the longest time by any car buff for being highly reliable. Now this and the problems they have had with the 4 speed automatics predominantly on Accords, 98-01 models. In fact, Honda finally issues a bulletin that they will warranty their transmissions on those models up to 100K miles. I surely didn't follow the owners manual on mine as far as changing out the ATF at 100K miles. Do it every 30K.
 
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