2005 Lexus RX330 valve train 200k bought last year

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Apr 7, 2010
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Location
Atlanta
I bought this car last year for $3800. It replaced a disaster Nissan Rogue that couldn’t be registered in GA due to rebuilt title issues.

So I bought this 194k miles Lexus on a whim, since I had lost my mind trying to make the rogue road legal.

Carfax showed oil changes ranged from 5000-7000 mile oci’s. The varnish is by no means Bitog standards, but I know without a doubt this isn’t bad. I am relieved it is what it is. I’m replacing the timing belt, which explains the valve train opening. Decided to replace valve train gaskets along with the timing belt components.

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Highly recommend re-sealing the valley plate and injectors since you're already this deep. Valley plate is an extremely common leak. Also replace the rubber coolant hose and knock sense harness that are in the valley.

Also, can't tell from the pic, but be sure to pull out the half-moons and reseal them.
 
Highly recommend re-sealing the valley plate and injectors since you're already this deep. Valley plate is an extremely common leak. Also replace the rubber coolant hose and knock sense harness that are in the valley.

Also, can't tell from the pic, but be sure to pull out the half-moons and reseal them.
And you thought it was easy in and out job.
 
Highly recommend re-sealing the valley plate and injectors since you're already this deep. Valley plate is an extremely common leak. Also replace the rubber coolant hose and knock sense harness that are in the valley.

Also, can't tell from the pic, but be sure to pull out the half-moons and reseal them.
I have no idea what 2/3 of things you mentioned are, but I will look into them. Thanks.
 
And you thought it was easy in and out job.
They’re pretty gravy, but access is frustrating and your back will hate you when done.

Given the age of these vehicles, I have begun to always reseal the injectors as well. If you wiggle the fuel rail in any way, the o-rings like to….

 
I have no idea what 2/3 of things you mentioned are, but I will look into them. Thanks.
 
You reseal this with RTV or a gasket? I wonder if the RTV failed before, isn’t there high risk resealing it with RTV will fail again?
 
You reseal this with RTV or a gasket? I wonder if the RTV failed before, isn’t there high risk resealing it with RTV will fail again?
RTV— it’s a normal wear item. Reseal with RTV that can withstand organic acid coolant.
 
RTV— it’s a normal wear item. Reseal with RTV that can withstand organic acid coolant.
I’ll take a look. If it’s leaking, I’ll try to fix it. If it’s not, I’ll pass. I like the injector o-ring idea though. It’s quite a a bit of time to remove the manifolds. May as well replace those rear injector rings.
 
I’ll take a look. If it’s leaking, I’ll try to fix it. If it’s not, I’ll pass. I like the injector o-ring idea though. It’s quite a a bit of time to remove the manifolds. May as well replace those rear injector rings.
Are you not resealing the rear valve cover?
 
Are you not resealing the rear valve cover?
I’ve been chipping away at the timing belt job (amateur hour). I noticed peaking underneath the radiator hose pipe (in the pic), that the hose underneath the fuel rail has a worm-style hose clamp.

Since that’s not OEM style hose clamp, I’d wager the coolant leak fix was already done. Looks you were right these are common occurrences on these engines.

By the way, I despise doing this timing belt job on a MZ. Such pain. Been working on this thing probably at least 8 hours and I just got on the new belt.

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