2005 Grand Caravan 3.3L O2 sensor & trans question

[Towncivilian]

My friend's family has a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.3L engine. It's throwing a P0032 code (upstream oxygen sensor), and clearing it results in it coming back a couple trips later. Would one of the sensors listed on RockAuto work without issue, and if so, which one? Or should I suggest them to get an OEM sensor? Anybody know how hard it is to replace the upstream O2 sensor? I've read somewhere that taking off the wiper cowl allows easy access for replacement.

Also, regarding the transmission, it's not been serviced in its 120k life so far and has brown fluid and it smells burnt. My friend and I tried to drop the pan to do a filter & fluid change, but the pan's gasket held the pan on even after hits with a rubber mallet and we were unable to wedge anything to try to loosen the pan, so we bolted it back up and gave up. I recently acquired a "multi-use transfer pump" from Harbor Freight for a few bucks. Would a siphon & refill with Supertech ATF+4 be beneficial, or should we try dropping the pan to replace the filter again? Is the filter anything more than a large mesh screen?

 

[Radman]

By all means get that tranny pan off and wipe out all the grit. A large putty knife will loosen the pan from the gasket. Some O2 sensors are sub par, although you did not specify brand name. Usually it is the rear O2 sensor that ends up with an open heating element.

 

[Scorch]

Honestly no idea about the oxygen sensor on these vans.

But the transmission, Chrysler uses ATF-RTV to seal those things on there VERY good. What you want to do is go to a Chrysler dealer and get the Mopar ATF-RTV sealant, and an original Mopar trans filter for the Caravan, then the 3rd piece to that trip is Mopar ATF +4. You do not want to use any other transmission fluid in this transmission as to avoid issues.

I had the same issue with the pan on my 04 Stratus. Using a small pry bar I VERY carefully pried the back right corner just enough to get the fluid to start to leak. From there some more smacks with a mallet and then pulling it down with my hands worked.

 

[Radman]

The Walmart tranny fluid is fine as it meets the required specs. Also any generic filter and gasket would work better than the old worn out one. Don't spend more than you have to.

 

[Towncivilian]

I thought the same, any service is better than none. The family's tight on cash and I don't think they'd spring for the Mopar parts - in fact we've already got a filter/gasket from AAP sitting around that we failed to return, so we'd probably use that and some ATF+4 for attempting the pan drop again. Of course we'd siphon out what we can with the transfer pump thing, it'll make handling the pan easier if we get it loose.

The transmission isn't having any issues right now, but preventative maintenance is always a good thing. Some shop told the owner of the van that with high-mileage transmissions that have not been regularly serviced to take it to AAMCO or some trans shop - why exactly I'm not sure, she said they mentioned something about having to do something with the gears (???). I strongly doubt there's any need to do that, a pan drop will be fine and siphon & fills every 15-25k thereafter should keep things in check I think?

I've read mixed reports about Bosch O2 sensors, but not heard anything about Denso/AC Delco sensors. I also don't know how much an OEM part would cost, anybody have any clue or anecdotes regarding these brands?

 

[Texan4Life]

Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
I've read mixed reports about Bosch O2 sensors, but not heard anything about Denso/AC Delco sensors. I also don't know how much an OEM part would cost, anybody have any clue or anecdotes regarding these brands?


I have had good luck with bosch sensors. just make sure the new one has a plug on the end. some of the really el cheapos are "universal" and just have bare wire. Tho I havent seen those in awhile. also use some anti-sieze on the threads when you install it.

Is a 2005 like a 1997 caravan? and is the upstream sensor the one right off the manifold before the cat? If so your in for a real treat. I did one not to long ago on our 97 w/ 3.3L what a PITA!

 

[Towncivilian]

This is the upstream O2 sensor:

 

[meep]

that pan is the worst I've ever tried to get off. honestly I gave up-- I was deforming the metal and decided not to risk destroying the pan.

What I did.

Pull off a cooler line, started car and let it pump itself out.

Stopped engine when bubbles appeared. topped off trans. started in D so the torque converter would mix the fluid instead of just spinning. shut it down when bubbles appeared.

I let it pump out thru clear hose-- when the fluid was pink and no longer brown, I buttoned it up, topped it off, good to go.

this didn't change the filter but got ALL of the old fluid and circulated debris out.

 

[Texan4Life]

Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
This is the upstream O2 sensor:




kinda of a close up but that looks alot easier than on my 97... a o2 sensor socket will make quick work of that one i think.

 

[mattd]

You need a 6 or 12" extention with a 1/2 wratchet and 02 sensor socket. I recommend doing it while engine is cold, it can get toasty. That P0032 sounds like a heater code, so i'm sure the heater element inside the sensor is fubar.

And i recommend OEM.

 

[FilterMinder1]

Originally Posted By: meep
that pan is the worst I've ever tried to get off. honestly I gave up-- I was deforming the metal and decided not to risk destroying the pan.

What I did.

Pull off a cooler line, started car and let it pump itself out.

Stopped engine when bubbles appeared. topped off trans. started in D so the torque converter would mix the fluid instead of just spinning. shut it down when bubbles appeared.

I let it pump out thru clear hose-- when the fluid was pink and no longer brown, I buttoned it up, topped it off, good to go.

this didn't change the filter but got ALL of the old fluid and circulated debris out.


First Time Poster here.

I Was having some transmission slipping issues on my 2005 Grand Caravan. I drained the fluid using a siphon pump with a tube fed through the dip stick fill tube. I drained out about 4 quarts of fluid and filled it back up with 3 plus 1 quart of Lucas Oil Transmission fix. I started the van and the ABS idiot light came on. the car shifted better and no other apparent issues. After reading some posts on the internet, I figured I would flush out the transmission fix fluid thinking it might be the cause due to its thick consistency. Most code readers, including mine, don't give codes for ABS systems and you can't just remove the code by disconnecting the battery, or removing engine codes using key-on process, or code readers. Anyway I flushed out what I could of the transmission fix and added back the old fluid. No change.

I decided to flush the entire system and replace the filter and see if there was something in the transmission that could have been changed by the siphon hose.
I had the same difficult time removing the transmission pan, as the above member mentioned. I tried tapping the pan with a rubber hammer, using a knife blade, etc. trying to get a corner to let loose. You name it I tried it... my neighbors were out and must have been laughing when I used an air hammer!!! Still nothing would break even a corner free.

I finally came up with a simple solution. As most people will tell you, you want to leave 3 or 4 of the bolts in the pan backed out about 3/4in so the pan doesn't drain out everywhere when/if it breaks free. Once you have all the bolts removed use a bolt backed out about 1/2" at one of the corners of the pan where there is the largest flange. Get a pair of Vise-Grips and adjust it so one jaw rests on the head of the bolt and the other rests on top of the flange. Then compress the grips of the Vice-Grip, repeating and tightening if necessary. The pan will easily break free as the force is applied. The flange can be easily bent back out with the Vice-Grips if you bend it. In my case it slightly bent, but not in so far enough to affect the seal.

After draining the fluid from the pan I changed the filter checked for any debris or internal damage, cleaned the magnet. No significant debris or issues I could find. I put it back together, added fluid, then disconnected the transmission cooler line and ran the engine to flush the remaining 5 quarts in the torque converter/transmission system until the fluid was a clear red. The transmission runs with less slipping, but the ABS light is still on.

I think it might be the speed sensor that might have gotten debris from the flush on the pickup magnet, located below the oil cooler lines. Any ideas would be appreciated.
-DJ