2005 CR-V pad slap

Joined
Oct 16, 2010
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california
I've been tasked for giving my sisters 2005 honda CR-V a 'once over' whatever that means, to her.
200k miles. I did 2 drain and fills with Honda DW-1 two Xmas's ago on it, and an oil change with a Fram ultra and Pennzoil platinum 5w-20.

She had bought new Centric brake pads for it without evidence it needed them, just that the brakes made noise the first braking in reverse out of her driveway in the morning.
I told her to order some disc brake lube, permatex green or Sylglide, at the same time and any brake hardware kits shown on RockAuto, but neither was in the box of parts when she dropped the car off.

I've only taken off the front drivers side caliper so far. Lower 12mm caliper bolt felt tight the whole way out, had to use ratchet. Upper was finger tight, once loosened, the whole way out.
The inner brake pad is tapered, about 1/8" difference in thickness, front to rear.. The Lower slide pin looks to have one corner pressed in, as if not aligned properly before caliper was reinstalled and lower bolt tightened.

Both pins show signs of wear, and the black grease which was in there, looks more like wheel bearing grease than any brake grease I've ever seen, not that I have huge experience doing brake jobs.

I said i am not reassembling with existing pins and no lube, and I am not running around to local AP stores to get new ones, she can send her boyfriend.

~ 12k miles since I did two DW-1 drain and fills, the fluid is darkish red and not smelling sweet, but not really burnt either.
Magnet on drainplug had less on it than 12k miles ago.

Kind of twiddling my thumbs waiting for new sets of both side front and rear caliper pins to be delivered. Only one jack, I live on other side of country.

The two caliper pins catch a fingernail, look worn in places. I've cleaned out their receptacles with Q tips wetted with silicone spray. Lots of Q tips before they did not turn black. Felt kind of gritty in there.

Wondering what the other 3 calipers look like.

I was reluctant to take on this task, apparently tire kingdom did the brakes ~25 to 30k miles ago. The pads are about half life, if the inner taper would be averaged out. Rotors are not grooved but there is a rusty lip inboard of pad. The rotors have been changed at least once. The phillips head screws are a bit mangled.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2002
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MI
Pad slap title is incorrect. Permatex green gets the most negative comments among the choices here at BITOG.

No good deed goes unpunished? LOL, have fun.
 

wrcsixeight

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Oct 16, 2010
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california
Pad slap plus....

Nothing's ever simple.

Dads 2 car garage cant be closed as is.

No word about new pins delivery.
3.5 quarts of dark red dw1 out, and 3.5 pink back dw1 in.

At least new aluminum washers were still in glove box, where i left them 2 years ago.
 

wrcsixeight

Thread starter
Joined
Oct 16, 2010
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california
Front pads are right.
I did the online ap store shuffle on laptop.
Chose napa as they claimed front and rear pins in stock, others did not.


Sister called from there, only one front pin set in stock. Other, manana.

Syl-glyde.

Buttoned up front.
Test drive new pads front drivers side only. no pulling. Surprised.
Forgot return springs.
Mosquitoes
Yeah. Blame them.

0.5 qt of used Dw1 in clear h20 bottle, not translucent.

Used dw1 in dw1 bottle with strong light under.. dark.
New bottle same light, dw1 glows pink.

Vette and volvo back in garage.
Dad's happy.
Guiness extra stout with Frozen pizza
Ahhhhh.
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
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Pad slap title is incorrect. Permatex green gets the most negative comments among the choices here at BITOG.

No good deed goes unpunished? LOL, have fun.
Pad slap grinds my gears, I have sold maybe 5000 pads or more in my life and the consequences of pad slap bites you in the butt every time
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
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4,330
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Central Maryland
One thing I've learned helping people with cars over several decades, is that buying the right parts is challenging. Most don't understand that, they think they can ask for "Ford" or "Honda" (magic happens behind the counter) and they get the right part. Basically, the same reasons they also aren't good at auto repairs, lack of attention to details. Hand waving. Blame a society that favors consensus over reality, but I digress.

Anyway, I just call the auto parts store and list everything needed and tell them to expect the customer. If they don't buy it all, I either refuse the job or tell them it'll be f-d up and I won't be responsible for the results. I'll only do so much if people jerk me around like that.

Last go-round that such an issue arose, a young couple came in with new pads, no new rotors. Existing rotors had deep grooves on the inside. I told them it would be a waste of money to install the new pads, they'd be locked-in and ruined by the rotors in no time. Since I had it apart, I lubed the existing pads, cleaned and tested the calipers (IPA 7884) and told them either return the pads or come back with new rotors. They never came back.

Later I heard through the grapevine that my pad lube job fixed the brake grinding noise. The old pads had plenty of meat on them, I guess they did OK.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
18,439
Location
NE,Ohio
fake news title.. thats not a pad slap.

although, I think if I was doing all that I'd just chuck some 20-30$ rotors on too.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
27,550
Location
Near the beach in Delaware
In the rust belt it's reasonable for vehicles to get the disc brake movement areas cleaned and lubed on a yearly basis.

Is the OP a shop or just helping people out doing work on their vehicles? Not sure why you don't tell people that you do not allow them to bring in their own parts. The shops I have gone to where I brought in parts I only brought in higher quality parts not easily/quickly obtainable if the shop just called up NAPA.
 
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