2005 Accord 2.4L - Oil Recommendation Wanted

This 4-cyl. Accord is an easy car to work on. Everything reasonably foreseeable that can break, OP probably can fix on his own if he has space and time.

***political statement*** If I was Walmart or Costco CEO, I would've bought all the stamping and blueprints for the 7th Gen Accord (or that era's CRV), and lobby DC to exempt it from all future CAFE regulations, and made it the USA's version of the Lada.

Have Costco sell it as the Kirkland Signature Car. LMAO.
 
after rehabbing two of these cars,

drive the car around and get it hot, perform a minimum 30 minute hot berryman B12 soak ( pour it in the cylinders hot then start the spark plugs a few threads again to stop evaporative losses. follow that directly with a BG EPR flush at 2k rpm’s for 30-45 minutes then immediately drain the oil. HPL Engine Cleaner 30 mixed with Valvoline Restore and Protect.

this solved my wife’s 2003 Accord that would burn a quart in 500 miles to not needing a drop in a 12k OCI (attempting a 15k interval now). barring any mechanical issues (worn valve seals in my accord as an example) this should fix your oil consumption.

side note, the car will take a while to start after the berryman soak and will smoke quite a bit. MAKE SURE to wear gloves when handling the berrymans over a hot engine. the fumes will burn you.
 
Fuel trims are affected by catalyst efficiency, not back pressure.
In regards to the converter itself, the oxygen sensors measure catalyst efficiency. This information affects the air-fuel ratio.
Your answer is still not clear and incomplete.

How does catalyst efficiency affects the air fuel ratio? Can you elaborate?

Why does back pressure does not affect fuel trims?
 
Your answer is still not clear and incomplete.

How does catalyst efficiency affects the air fuel ratio? Can you elaborate?

Why does back pressure does not affect fuel trims?
I wasn't addressing back pressure, I was mostly commenting that it's not ZDDP nor liquid oil that is clogging a substrate. It's ash, or if there is enough unburnt fuel that your converter is on fire and has melted the material itself.

As for the rest there are multiple Internet sources on that. Being iCurious you can figure it out. I believe it, I really do.
 
I wasn't addressing back pressure, I was mostly commenting that it's not ZDDP nor liquid oil that is clogging a substrate. It's ash, or if there is enough unburnt fuel that your converter is on fire and has melted the material itself.

As for the rest there are multiple Internet sources on that. Being iCurious you can figure it out. I believe it, I really do.
How are some ways to tell of a clogged Catalytic Converter? I suspect I could be dealing with that on a 2014 Honda Crv, not quite as peppy as I believe it should be. Would it throw a code eventually?
 
How are some ways to tell of a clogged Catalytic Converter? I suspect I could be dealing with that on a 2014 Honda Crv, not quite as peppy as I believe it should be. Would it throw a code eventually?
YES. It certainly will throw a code if it is truly clogged and your engine starts acting up due to the effects. The code used to be coded as a P0420.
 
Yes, it will throw a code. I forget the code my 13' CRV thru, but the 02 sensors were changed way prior to the CAT code. The Cats may have gotten oil fouled, since it was using oil. Mine was burning oil too @ 300K, but BG-109 cleaned up the rings and stopped that. It saved the CATS, but they went bad anyway about 2 years later. Unfortunately, NY has California Emissions, and those 2 CATS were big bucks. Runs fine now and no more codes.
 
I just dealt with a clogged cat on my 07 Accord. I lived with a p0420 for nearly 9 years before it started throwing a code for the EGR valve, and having issues accelerating at full throttle. It would rev up, but just slow down. Almost like a failing trans. Turned out to be the cat being almost fully clogged with excessive back pressure. Replaced it and the code went away, and it runs better than ever. The EGR code also never came back.
 
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I just dealt with a clogged cat on my 07 Accord. I lived with a p0420 for nearly 9 years before it started throwing a code for the EGR valve, and having issues accelerating at full throttle. It would rev up, but just slow down. Almost like a failing trans. Turned out to be the cat being almost fully clogged with excessive back pressure. Replaced it and the code went away, and it runs better than ever. The EGR code also never came back.
I had the same problem except the EGR code.
 
This is a perfect candidate for Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 with your oil consumption problems. Run at least 4 full oci’s. Personally I’d run it indefinitely in this vehicle.
I only ran 1500km of it in an audi 3.0t and noticed better mpg and less fuel consumption with the oil put in afterwards. Didn't want to have the 5w30 in there for too long for fear of metal wear, but I can't image not seeing a difference after one full interval with the Valvoline Restore and Protect
 
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