2004 toyota solara tranny slipping

[THafeez]

Hey guys,

I have a 2004 toyota solara with a 2.4l 2azfe engine and auto transmission with 180k miles. Recently, and this is happening more and more, after doing 55-65 mph on the highway, I exit the off ramp. Now when I'm merging with local traffic, if I press the accelerator I hear a grinding and the tranny shudders into the correct gear. Whenever this happens, I immediately let go of the accelerator and let the engine and tranny do its thing. This is an auto, and I can only describe it as the transmissions isn't engaged when going from 4-3-2-1 and when I press the accelerator its in between one of those gears and I hear the grinding because it's still shifting.

Now I've looked up used trannys "U241E" and they go for about 300-500 USD for a used one. I'm not sure if I should get my transmission rebuilt, replace with a used one, or get another car. Blue book is probably 1600 and I already have new tires and brakes. I want to know the cost of labor, if there's any remedies I can do in the meantime, and if the engine needs to be pulled to get it done. This is my daily so I'd like to keep it running, but if the labor to replace it costs more than the car, I'm better off getting rid it of it and letting the next owner know about it.

I'll be pulling the pan/changing the gasket, filter and fluids as well. Could be low on fluid, but I can never tell because the tranny dipstick is extremely inaccurate. I'll go with factory fill of 4 qts after I'm done. Filter could be clogged (low chance, most toyota mechanics claim to have never seen a clogged tranny filter??). If I find metal shavings etc. I'll know that's it..

I have also been changing the fluid every 10k for the past 30k. 150k is when I started. Not sure if PO ever changed it.

 

[spk2000]

First I would check the fluid level and condition. Sometimes low fluid can cause that. Maybe a partial change is worth trying too. My grand marquis was acting up and sucked 4 qts out diptick tube and added new 2 years later and going strong no issues since.

Even though the car may technically only be worth so much you have to decide is the rest of the car sound and in good shape. Not going to get much of a car normally for the cost of the transmission repair. I have known some transmission mechanics in past and they all tell me most of the time it's a stab in the dark to rebuild them. Change out parts you think are causing the symptoms. Transmission parts are very expensive but as you have seen a used tranny can be had relatively cheap. A bit of a gamble not knowing if it had issues before junking car though but one I have taken a couple of times after a bad rebuild once and I tend to go used. Max install price for a small transmission shop should be $1200. Call and ask for quote on replacing with a used tranny.

Put a used transmission in my Montero and 4-55 years later and 40,000 miles turned out to be a good choice. Still going strong.

 

[Oro_O]

Quote
Could be low on fluid, but I can never tell because the tranny dipstick is extremely inaccurate.


You can get an accurate reading on these U series by doing this:

a) start the engine in the am after sitting over night.
b) Shift through the gears, but read the transmission fill level before moving the car at all.

Doing this, I can get an accurate reading. If not, it consistently reads too high or is unreadable. This procedure has worked for me.

Other things to note:

1. Some of these have metal mesh filters and not traditional paper filters.
2. Some aftermarket paper filters have been known to restrict flow and cause drivability problems.

Before going any further, I would check with the dealer what the proper style filter is for this year, and that it is fully filled with the correct fluid.

 

[Donald]

As other have suggested I would check the basics. If its still an issue then can you do the work or need to pay to have it done? It you cannot swap in a used transmission, I would trade the car in to a dealer. I would have no problem dumping the car on a dealer without discussing the issues the vehicle has.

 

[THafeez]

Originally Posted by Or
Quote
Could be low on fluid, but I can never tell because the tranny dipstick is extremely inaccurate.


You can get an accurate reading on these U series by doing this:

a) start the engine in the am after sitting over night.
b) Shift through the gears, but read the transmission fill level before moving the car at all.

Doing this, I can get an accurate reading. If not, it consistently reads too high or is unreadable. This procedure has worked for me.

Other things to note:

1. Some of these have metal mesh filters and not traditional paper filters.
2. Some aftermarket paper filters have been known to restrict flow and cause drivability problems.

Before going any further, I would check with the dealer what the proper style filter is for this year, and that it is fully filled with the correct fluid.

Checked this morning, color was a dull red, smelled normal and it was right in the middle of the cold marks. Previous drain and fills 10k-20k miles ago were black and smelled like burning. I believe it's all paper filters now. I'll check with the dealer as well. If I do have a steel mesh by chance, I'll buy that.

 

[THafeez]

Originally Posted by Donald
As other have suggested I would check the basics. If its still an issue then can you do the work or need to pay to have it done? It you cannot swap in a used transmission, I would trade the car in to a dealer. I would have no problem dumping the car on a dealer without discussing the issues the vehicle has.


I would need to pay to have it done. I can do things like pull pans and check, change gaskets, but I don't have the equipment or know-how to pull engines and trannys.

Dealer might be a good option if I can get another car for about 7-10k dollars. Thats my budget for a new car.

 

[supton]

Might be time to move on. I'd check the vehicle condition first, see how rusty it is, what else might be wrong. Does the car "owe" you anything, that you might regret letting it go for $1-1,500? Once I dip below 10c/m I kinda assume I'm good with the world, it's nice to do better but I've done well enough.

I'm going to go out on a limb though and assume that a swapped in trans will be cheaper than a new(er) car, especially if newer car is an unknown thing and without any repair budget set aside for it.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted by THafeez

Checked this morning, color was a dull red, smelled normal and it was right in the middle of the cold marks. Previous drain and fills 10k-20k miles ago were black and smelled like burning.


Dark fluid is not unusual, burning smell is. However, if it was NOT misbehaving when you bought it, but is now w/clean fluid, it implies something else.

What fluid have you been putting in it? You have no error codes?

There are online instructions to check electrically for ECU signalling for the solenoids, that can be checked easily/free. Also, these are adaptable transmissions and a first step w/issues is to reset the ECU programming. Do that, also.

Another valuable and cheap test is a line pressure test. I have not done one on this transmission, but have on others. I am going to guess it's the same here. If the ecu test is ok, and a reset and proper filter make no difference, then I'd investigate this. There should be a test port somewhere, likely adjacent or on the neck of the bell housing. You remove a small plug, thread in an adapter connected to a test gauge. You monitor the pressure in the line in each gear at idle and revved. It can help diagnose valve body issues, among other things. The test is easy to do with a few cheap tools (npt adapter, hose, compression tester).

These transmission are quite reliable and long-lived.

 

[PandaBear]

Try changing fluid again and see if it improve, maybe some transmission snake oil (that helps with slipping tranny). If not, it is time to move on. 180k is a good run when you don't have to spend a lot of money. Things will start to wear out soon on ignition coil, starter, alternator, CV boots, various hoses, etc. Then you add the uncertain things like rust and suspension, it is not going to be cost effective for long.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted by THafeez
If I find metal shavings etc. I'll know that's it..t.


Post pics of what you find (including the pan magnets) for us to review.

Also check for codes and report back.

 

[StevieC]

I'd check codes first. It should have one/some stored. I'd do that before a fluid change because depending on what it finds a fluid change could cause issues and make the problem worse.

That said if the car is in excellent shape and you feel it's worth it I would have the transmission rebuilt at a shop that does quality work (if it needs it).
That engine could most likely go another 200K miles and that is far cheaper than a car payment.

 

[eljefino]

I'd stick a used transmission in and I might even have the junkyard do it. That way if they break incidental things they'll just take them off the donor car and not tell you.