2004 Nissan 350Z getting ProCharger,

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I just made a deposit on an ATI ProCharger for my Nissan 350Z. (A little background, the Mechanicals on the ProCharger are a bit less maxed out than on the Vortec for my car, but Vortec is cheaper and more complete as it ads a timing solution to the fuel solution that both have. Can get a deal on a new procharger since I drive a LOT of miles i figured I rather pay extra for a Timing solution using J&S Ultraguard) This is my DD as well as my only car. Sees a lot of highway driving at 13,500 miles, in only 5 months of ownership. Car will see some streetracing as well, possibly some AutoX and also some dragstrip. As summer is starting I wanted to go to a 40 weight thats stable and has good HTHS. couple weeks ago ( ie 1500 miles ago) got a oil chnange with Belgian Castrol 5w-40, but the HTHS is a disappointing (for a 40 weight) 3.6. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010046#000000 Since the car will see Summer use with forced Induction, I am thinking M1 15w-50, but am open to suggestions for some real strong (HTHS and oxidation resistance) 40 weights. Fred.. [Smile] [ March 21, 2005, 08:11 PM: Message edited by: palmerwmd ]
 
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I run a modified 04 GTO LS1 putting down 400 RWHP.... Spent quite a lot of time on the dyno with her.....and of course the all important seat of the pants dyno:) Couple of points to consider.... your spending money for a performance mod so you want to maximize performance.....safe assumption I assume:) Flip side is you want to enjoy your tire shredding motor for as long as possible and keep the car dependable.....here is the trade off...... Heavy motor oils decrease performance while "protecting" vital engine parts etc....thinner motor oils increase performance and show more wear....go to the drag strip and watch as the fire breathing monsters run 4 second quarter miles with 0-5 in the sump:) Of course they get to rebuild the engine every two minutes:) So I'll get to my humble recommendation after all the dyno runs etc......and many many reads on BITOG....check out the race engine section here by the way....... My recommendations for your setup.....and no I don't sell Amsoil, Tupperwear or Mary Kay:)..... 1. Amsoil 0-30 2. Amsoil 10-40 3. Amsoil 5-40 4. Mobil 1 0-40 You can insert the GC 0-30 in place of #2 if you can find a steady reliable supply of it.....check out the viscosity and shear of the Amsoil 0-30 compared to other X-40 weights.......Spend some time in the UOA section and look for various X-40's coming down to 30 weights after a few hundred miles......
 

palmerwmd

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I am kinda leaning towards M1 15w-50 or any of the group IV 20w-50's. But am willing to be convinced otherwise. Any non diesel 40 weights oils out there with a HTHS well above 4? Fred.. [Smile]
 
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what about Redline 5w-40 or 10w-40? both meet your desired spec and are built for hard driving.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by palmerwmd: As summer is starting I wanted to go to a 40 weight thats stable and has good HTHS. couple weeks ago ( ie 1500 miles ago) got a oil chnange with Belgian Castrol 5w-40, but the HTHS is a disappointing (for a 40 weight) 3.6. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010046#000000 Fred.. [Smile]
Fred, if you are quoting me on the 3.6, don't. None of the Castrol oils listed in their international sites match the specs exactly of made in Belgium Syntec 5w-40. Those were just data points of Castrol's other 5w-40's to see if the 4.5 was in the ballpark.
 
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I've got a Procharger on my Expedition. You'll love it - put a 2,500-lb. trailer behind your Z and we'll race! [Dual] You're getting some good advice. I run M1 10W30 with good result, plus I have tons in my garage. When the M1 deals expire and I run out, I may try Redline or Amsoil in the same weight. I'm a little partial against a 40wt at this point. While I have 115K miles, she burns no oil. If she ever starts burning oil, I may go to a 40wt. I'm convinced that these centrifugal blowers put a little less strain on your engine than a roots-type or twinscrew, as boost increases with RPM. Plus ATIs are intercooled, so charge temps are close to ambient and detonation risks are reduced. You should get many, many miles out of your car - that VQ V6 is a gem and quite strong [Cheers!]
 
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Both use oil coolers.....they HIGHLY recommend you put an oil cooler on your Z......and lastly...both are street legal and driven on the street and the track......in Texas....both use Amsoil 10-40 high performance. [/QB]
You sure you don't mean "intercoolers" and not "oil coolers". According to ATI, since their units (P1SC, D1SC, F1 and others) do not require seperate oil feeds they run more efficiently (lower temps and less parasitic losses). This may be the reason it dosen't require a timing/piggyback computer. By lowering the intake charge through intercooling the charge air, and minimizing the unit's operating temperature through self lubrication it may not (and does not on my vehicle equiped with an ATI) need a timing reduction device, depending on amount of boost, fuel type, and ambiant air temps.
 
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Here's a slightly related question for the experts: What kind of oil does ATI supply for their superchargers? They have a proprietary oil that they insist you run, but no one knows for sure what it is. I've heard everything from synthetic outboard-engine oil to regular synthetic with some additives. Any way to tell what it is, short of a pricey lab analysis?
 
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Originally posted by droy:
quote:
Both use oil coolers.....they HIGHLY recommend you put an oil cooler on your Z......and lastly...both are street legal and driven on the street and the track......in Texas....both use Amsoil 10-40 high performance.

You sure you don't mean "intercoolers" and not "oil coolers". According to ATI, since their units (P1SC, D1SC, F1 and others) do not require seperate oil feeds they run more efficiently (lower temps and less parasitic losses). This may be the reason it dosen't require a timing/piggyback computer. By lowering the intake charge through intercooling the charge air, and minimizing the unit's operating temperature through self lubrication it may not (and does not on my vehicle equiped with an ATI) need a timing reduction device, depending on amount of boost, fuel type, and ambiant air temps. [/QB]
No I mean oil cooler as the ATI kit supposedly comes with the intercooler( apparently one must relocate the battery) so there was no need to mention the intercooler:)
 

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Originally posted by droy: [QUOTE]parasitic losses). This may be the reason it dosen't require a timing/piggyback computer. ...not on my vehicle equiped with an ATI) need a timing reduction device, depending on amount of boost, fuel type, and ambiant air temps.
ATI runs a J&S Ultraguatrd on their own vehicle ( albeit it uses a 9 lbs pulley instead of teh "stock" 7 lb. Numerous 350Z engine ahve been blown with the ATI always w/o a timing solution, no timning solution ATI's equipped Z's are known to me, that have blown . I will go with J&S Ultraguard as i belive wiht with as good an intercooler as the C2 has its still FO so needs a timing solution evn if it coss me a bit power. Relibility is key to me. Fred.. [Smile]
 

palmerwmd

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Originally posted by robbobster: I'm a firm believer of getting a cutsom tune and fuel upgrades as needed (injectors and fuel pump) for the power levels you are making. [Cheers!]
There will be a custom tune. Injectors will stay stock until I go over 500 hp which I likely never will, as the "must-have-internals" line is in the mid to high 400's with this engine , so I wont pulley up that high as that expense is too onerous to me Fred.. [Smile]
 
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Originally posted by palmerwmd: I am kinda leaning towards M1 15w-50 or any of the group IV 20w-50's. But am willing to be convinced otherwise. Any non diesel 40 weights oils out there with a HTHS well above 4? Fred.. [Smile]
I spoke with two Nissan folks at the shop....both have turbo 350z's...intresting points they both raise... 1. The ATI does not require external oiling...ie...you don't have to punch a hole in your oil pan. 2. ATI build up pressure after the natural aspiration has ceased at higher rpms.....so you do not get a big blow of forced air....... Both use oil coolers.....they HIGHLY recommend you put an oil cooler on your Z......and lastly...both are street legal and driven on the street and the track......in Texas....both use Amsoil 10-40 high performance.
 

palmerwmd

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Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek: I really miss the days of the vg30et and the sr20
There are still many nice SR's around. $2500 and up will buy you one a decent SR or even clip. Fred.. [Smile]
 
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