Hello all I am looking for advise on what oil would be best for my cousins oil coking 2004 sebering with the terrible 2.7. Any suggestions.
2004 chrysler sebering 2.7 oil selection
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I already started it on an mmo diet to clean it out. I am thinking of using pp. But I want to hear first hand from other 2.7. Owners
Personally I would recommend synthetic motor oil since the Chrysler 2.7L V6 is considered a major sludger engine. Try Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra, Mobil 1, Valvoline Synpower, Castrol Edge, Quakerstate Ultimate Durability, Supertech Full Synthetic. Oil filters, I would recommend Purolator, Mobil 1, K&N, Bosch, or Mopar OEM.
One or two short OCI's with MMO at the end should go a good ways to clean thing inside.
A fill of one of those quality synthetics, watch the color or do a UOA to determine the length.
AFter that a reasonable interval with synthetic oil should work well.
A fill of one of those quality synthetics, watch the color or do a UOA to determine the length.
AFter that a reasonable interval with synthetic oil should work well.
The early 2.7's have the problems... An '04 is most likely ok...
buuuut...
I would STILL run synthetic for the peace of mind...
Any name brand you find on sale or stock up with rebates will do.
I've used Synpower, Q-horsepower, and PP with no noticeable difference in consumption. My '01 burns about half a quart between my 6,0000km (almost 4,000mile) OCI.
Even regular name brand dino is fine... These engines run HOT. But I think after 2002, the engines were tweaked down --> My '01 is rated at 200hp, while yours is 190hp I believe, with less torque too. The KEY is to keep the oil topped up! (or so I've been told). ALWAYS keep the oil at the FULL mark! ...but again, design changes were made after '01 or '02.
My Sebring was bought brand new (father's car), 5,000km OCI dealer bulk till about 120,000km, then switched to synthetic (after I took it over) and currently at 156,000km. When switching, I used Auto RX, just because it was really popular on here at the time... Not sure if it helped, but it certainly didn't hurt! If you don't know the history, MMO or Auto RX should be considered. Else.. I think some runs on synthetic will do the same... Oh.. and check the PCV valve (might as well just replace it.. OEM preferably)
On dino, would burn 1+ quart(s) between oil changes.. slightly less with the synthetic (dunno why).. I now use either PureOne or Bosch filters, or even Mobil 1 or K&N depending on what sales/rebates are out there. Oil still comes out very dark, but no sludge or particles or anything.
The 2.7's in these cars are very fun... Car is very peppy..
...But, none of my automatic door locks work.. but I can live with that! haha
buuuut...
I would STILL run synthetic for the peace of mind...
Any name brand you find on sale or stock up with rebates will do.
I've used Synpower, Q-horsepower, and PP with no noticeable difference in consumption. My '01 burns about half a quart between my 6,0000km (almost 4,000mile) OCI.
Even regular name brand dino is fine... These engines run HOT. But I think after 2002, the engines were tweaked down --> My '01 is rated at 200hp, while yours is 190hp I believe, with less torque too. The KEY is to keep the oil topped up! (or so I've been told). ALWAYS keep the oil at the FULL mark! ...but again, design changes were made after '01 or '02.
My Sebring was bought brand new (father's car), 5,000km OCI dealer bulk till about 120,000km, then switched to synthetic (after I took it over) and currently at 156,000km. When switching, I used Auto RX, just because it was really popular on here at the time... Not sure if it helped, but it certainly didn't hurt! If you don't know the history, MMO or Auto RX should be considered. Else.. I think some runs on synthetic will do the same... Oh.. and check the PCV valve (might as well just replace it.. OEM preferably)
On dino, would burn 1+ quart(s) between oil changes.. slightly less with the synthetic (dunno why).. I now use either PureOne or Bosch filters, or even Mobil 1 or K&N depending on what sales/rebates are out there. Oil still comes out very dark, but no sludge or particles or anything.
The 2.7's in these cars are very fun... Car is very peppy..
...But, none of my automatic door locks work.. but I can live with that! haha
Sebring 2001-2002 were the worst years with the 2.7. Very few after that.
Trouble with these engines were caused by poor design:
1. Small oil return passages
2. Poor PCV system design
3. Water pump design that can allow coolant leaks into oil
**Changes were supposed to have been made over the years to correct these flaws.
I would use Syn oil and keep changes to around 5,000 miles at most. I think Pennzoil Ultra is a good choice.
Change the PCV valve
Make sure vehicle is not losing coolant as engine water pump design could allow coolant in the oil causing issues
Trouble with these engines were caused by poor design:
1. Small oil return passages
2. Poor PCV system design
3. Water pump design that can allow coolant leaks into oil
**Changes were supposed to have been made over the years to correct these flaws.
I would use Syn oil and keep changes to around 5,000 miles at most. I think Pennzoil Ultra is a good choice.
Change the PCV valve
Make sure vehicle is not losing coolant as engine water pump design could allow coolant in the oil causing issues
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all changes were made for fixes by 2004. including a redesigned pcv system, new tensioner for the chain, and larger drain holes.
as far as i am aware the water pump on the 2.7L always had a drain tube hooked up to the water pump (weep hole) to drain any coolant to the out side of the timing cover. mike
as far as i am aware the water pump on the 2.7L always had a drain tube hooked up to the water pump (weep hole) to drain any coolant to the out side of the timing cover. mike
I'm not positive whether or not all the corrections were made for the '04 model, however, I do know that my mom's '08 Sebring 2.7 calls for 6mo./6k mi. intervals using conventional. Should the engine still be a sludger there is no way in [censored] that Chrysler would advise that kind of an OCI. My assumption would be that you are fine using any quality (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Mobil, etc.) oil.
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