Last time I was in to the dealership I was asking whether they thought the 15K mile oil change was a good idea. They stressed that a 15k oil change is set up for IDEAL CONDITIONS. But most people drive in what car manufacturers call "severe service". If you don't drive all highway in perfect weather in totally dust free environments, then you are a severe service driver. The dealership also pointed out that your owner's manual service record page actually shows double the number of oilchanges needing dealer stamps and every second one is called the "intermediate oil change". Check it out. This seems to me to be a tacit admission that 7500 miles is more appropriate than 15k miles.
If you do choose to go with 7.5k mile OCI, then make sure you use BMW LL-01 and ACEA A3 approved oil....keep the receipts. For ease of reference, here are three oils that I know to have that approval, and have shown good UOA's on this site in 3.0L BMW inline 6 (these are in order of MY preference, and I haven't seen a UOA for the last one on the list):
- Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (Must say made in Germany on the back)
- Mobil 1 0w-40
- BMW High Performance full synthetic 5w-30 (at your dealer).
- Castrol syntec 5w-40 (must say made in Belgium on the back).
BMW owner's circle will tell you that any decent 5w30 full synthetic will do, but most of these have neither BMW LL-01 nor ACEA A3 rating...they are generally too thin. Accordingly, this advice is INCORRECT.
I for one strongly recommend you do an "intermediate" oil change at 7500 miles, and keep records. Also, keep your oil filter receipts. Pacific BMW in California is an excellent place to get accessories including oil filters. Check them out online.
Additionally, if you buy yourself an oil extractor or "topsider" (a device that sucks the oil out of your dipstick tube) an oil change is a simple affair. You will also need to buy a 36MM SIX POINT socket to remove the oil filter cannister cap. Strongly resist the temptation to use a crescent wrench or an 12 point socket unless you want to replace this plastic part. Finally, you'll need a torque wrench to tighten the cap to 25 NM (about 20Lb Ft). If you don't want to buy a torque wrench be aware that 20 NM is the lightest setting on most torque wrenches and it could be called "super gently, or barely tight".
Last time I did it on my 330ci, I was wearing pretty nice clothes, just stood in front of the car and didn't spill a drop. Just put the tube down the dipstick, then open up the cannister and change out the filter element. I cut the top off a 2L soda bottle. I drop the old filter element into the bottom half and use the top half for a funnel.
Using a topsider, these BMW's are the easiest cars on the planet for changing oil. (I believe the TDI VW's also fit into this category because of their similar oil filter set-up). I kind of wish I needed to change the oil more than every 7.5k miles....but then I'm a recreational oil changer!
[ September 18, 2005, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: Jim 5 ]
If you do choose to go with 7.5k mile OCI, then make sure you use BMW LL-01 and ACEA A3 approved oil....keep the receipts. For ease of reference, here are three oils that I know to have that approval, and have shown good UOA's on this site in 3.0L BMW inline 6 (these are in order of MY preference, and I haven't seen a UOA for the last one on the list):
- Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (Must say made in Germany on the back)
- Mobil 1 0w-40
- BMW High Performance full synthetic 5w-30 (at your dealer).
- Castrol syntec 5w-40 (must say made in Belgium on the back).
BMW owner's circle will tell you that any decent 5w30 full synthetic will do, but most of these have neither BMW LL-01 nor ACEA A3 rating...they are generally too thin. Accordingly, this advice is INCORRECT.
I for one strongly recommend you do an "intermediate" oil change at 7500 miles, and keep records. Also, keep your oil filter receipts. Pacific BMW in California is an excellent place to get accessories including oil filters. Check them out online.
Additionally, if you buy yourself an oil extractor or "topsider" (a device that sucks the oil out of your dipstick tube) an oil change is a simple affair. You will also need to buy a 36MM SIX POINT socket to remove the oil filter cannister cap. Strongly resist the temptation to use a crescent wrench or an 12 point socket unless you want to replace this plastic part. Finally, you'll need a torque wrench to tighten the cap to 25 NM (about 20Lb Ft). If you don't want to buy a torque wrench be aware that 20 NM is the lightest setting on most torque wrenches and it could be called "super gently, or barely tight".
Last time I did it on my 330ci, I was wearing pretty nice clothes, just stood in front of the car and didn't spill a drop. Just put the tube down the dipstick, then open up the cannister and change out the filter element. I cut the top off a 2L soda bottle. I drop the old filter element into the bottom half and use the top half for a funnel.
Using a topsider, these BMW's are the easiest cars on the planet for changing oil. (I believe the TDI VW's also fit into this category because of their similar oil filter set-up). I kind of wish I needed to change the oil more than every 7.5k miles....but then I'm a recreational oil changer!
[ September 18, 2005, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: Jim 5 ]