2003 BMW warranty question

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Last time I was in to the dealership I was asking whether they thought the 15K mile oil change was a good idea. They stressed that a 15k oil change is set up for IDEAL CONDITIONS. But most people drive in what car manufacturers call "severe service". If you don't drive all highway in perfect weather in totally dust free environments, then you are a severe service driver. The dealership also pointed out that your owner's manual service record page actually shows double the number of oilchanges needing dealer stamps and every second one is called the "intermediate oil change". Check it out. This seems to me to be a tacit admission that 7500 miles is more appropriate than 15k miles.

If you do choose to go with 7.5k mile OCI, then make sure you use BMW LL-01 and ACEA A3 approved oil....keep the receipts. For ease of reference, here are three oils that I know to have that approval, and have shown good UOA's on this site in 3.0L BMW inline 6 (these are in order of MY preference, and I haven't seen a UOA for the last one on the list):

- Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (Must say made in Germany on the back)

- Mobil 1 0w-40

- BMW High Performance full synthetic 5w-30 (at your dealer).

- Castrol syntec 5w-40 (must say made in Belgium on the back).

BMW owner's circle will tell you that any decent 5w30 full synthetic will do, but most of these have neither BMW LL-01 nor ACEA A3 rating...they are generally too thin. Accordingly, this advice is INCORRECT.

I for one strongly recommend you do an "intermediate" oil change at 7500 miles, and keep records. Also, keep your oil filter receipts. Pacific BMW in California is an excellent place to get accessories including oil filters. Check them out online.

Additionally, if you buy yourself an oil extractor or "topsider" (a device that sucks the oil out of your dipstick tube) an oil change is a simple affair. You will also need to buy a 36MM SIX POINT socket to remove the oil filter cannister cap. Strongly resist the temptation to use a crescent wrench or an 12 point socket unless you want to replace this plastic part. Finally, you'll need a torque wrench to tighten the cap to 25 NM (about 20Lb Ft). If you don't want to buy a torque wrench be aware that 20 NM is the lightest setting on most torque wrenches and it could be called "super gently, or barely tight".

Last time I did it on my 330ci, I was wearing pretty nice clothes, just stood in front of the car and didn't spill a drop. Just put the tube down the dipstick, then open up the cannister and change out the filter element. I cut the top off a 2L soda bottle. I drop the old filter element into the bottom half and use the top half for a funnel.

Using a topsider, these BMW's are the easiest cars on the planet for changing oil. (I believe the TDI VW's also fit into this category because of their similar oil filter set-up). I kind of wish I needed to change the oil more than every 7.5k miles....but then I'm a recreational oil changer!

[ September 18, 2005, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: Jim 5 ]
 
How much oil do you get out by sucking it. Or how much is left in the motor?

Would be nice to know. Im also thinking of an oil extractor not only for the motor.

I will use it to bevel gear, rear end diff due to the fact there are no drain plugs.
 
Jim

That's exactly how I do my M5. The trick with the soda bottle is a good one, and I have an alternative suggestion as well. I use a Castrol litre-sized oil bottle with the bottom cut off for a funnel. The large diameter screw-top is a good fit for the filler cap hole, and you can screw the lid back on to keep it from dripping when you put it away.

For the oil filter, a large zip-loc bag is handy - just lift the filter straight up, put the bag under it, release it from the canister lid, zip the bag, and its ready to go to the recycling depot.

jbl

I get more oil out of my M5 with the lift pump than it's possible to get with the drain plug method. The difference is about 1/2 liter, based on having to use 7.0 liters to fill it versus the 6.5 liters that BMW publishes. The dealer uses a lift pump as well - my drain plug has never been out of the engine!

Cheers
JJ
 
Here's the deal:I just got this car.It's an 03 325i wagon with the sport package and it's flippin sweet!

25K on the clock.I looked into the records and found that a BMW dealer changed the oil at 23.5K with the recommended BMW 5W30 free through warranty.I just got this car at Carmax and I saw a small oil change sticker stating:Next-30K miles.

I don't know if they changed the oil or not and if they did I don't think they used a BMW LL-01 rated oil.Being unsure I went ahead and went to Autozone.Got 7 quarts of GC(gold stuff) and a new STP S8081 oil filter.

I'm planning to do a change tommorow.Anyone know how to reset the oil life monitor on a BMW?
 
It's been my experience that when you extend the oil drain interval too long, for too many times, every engine I've had leaked oil like heck after 100K. I've got two Toyotas at the 100K mark, and have chaged oil/filter with synthetic oil every 7500 miles or so (4 times a year). No leaks and those V8's run stronger than when new.

That's my real world test - the motor lasts longer than your interest in the car/truck and it doesn't coat your driveway after 100K.
 
To be honest I'm not really into 15K drains either.I plan on running 7.5K intervals on my M54 motor.GC or M1 0W40 is it for me.

BTW,I did look for the dreaded "sludge" and found the metal surfaces to be sparkling clean!Zero sludge nor a smidegon of varnish.Some of the upper plastic baffles and oil cap had a tiny bit of that reddish varnish on it though.It wiped off easily though.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Alan:
Here's the deal:I just got this car.It's an 03 325i wagon with the sport package and it's flippin sweet!.....
I'm planning to do a change tommorow.Anyone know how to reset the oil life monitor on a BMW?


Resetting the OLM on a late-model BMW:

6/2000 and later models
On vehicles without the data link connector (DLC) in the engine compartment the reset tool can no longer be used. Instead, the SII can be reset with the trip odometer reset button in the instrument cluster:

The ignition key must be in OFF position.

Press and hold trip odometer button in instrument cluster, and turn ignition key to ACCESSORY position.

Keep button pressed for approx. 5 more seconds until any of the following appear in the display: "Oil Service" or "Inspection", with "Reset" or "Re".
Press button again and hold for approx. 5 seconds until "Reset" or "Re" flash.

While display is flashing, press button briefly to reset SII.

After display has shown new interval, the following will appear in display for approx. 2 seconds: “End SIA”.

The system can only be reset again after the vehicle has been driven approx. 50 to 75 miles (consumes at least 2.5 gal. fuel). If the display shows "Reset" or "Re" when resetting, the minimum driving distance has been fulfilled and the system can be reset again. It is possible to interrupt and end the reset procedure by changing the position of the ignition key.

Good luck!
smile.gif
 
I would not reset the oil life monitor if you do a 7500 OCI. Let it run its course, they also check additional items at the 30,000 mile mark.
This is called an Inspection 1 service.

The oil life monitor bases the OCI on a number of factors including number of cold starts (under 40 C), type of driving such as stop and go versus highway, oil temperature, number of gallons of fuel used etc.

If you use a top sider, remember to open the oil filter canister before you suck the oil out. When you open the canister the oil inside will drain back to the pan. You will then get the full 6.5 liters or about 7 quarts.

If you drive fewer than 15,000 miles a year, BMW will change the oil under warranty once a year even if the OLM doesn't say it is needed.

Also, make sure you have your brake fuild changed every two years. This is also covered by the BMW maintanence program.
 
You could always go with a yearly change at BMW Dealer and time it for the Fall. When Summer comes, use any old 15w-40 for 3-4 months as a flush and to handle the heat of summer. No real need for synth or BMW LL in the heat of summer and not if you are only using it for a few months. It will at least keep the costs down...10k on BMW oil, 5k on 15w-40. That car takes 8 quarts, iirc. BTW, 15w-40 dino totally is good enough and some even carries the Euro A3 and MB 228.X spec. As far as dealer oil goes, ask/pay for the BMW 0w-40 and/or BYO Mobil 1 0w-40 or Syntec 0w-30. BMW Synth 5w-30 is blah.
 
Alan,
The oil change must've been done by carmax...BMW dealers do NOT put an oil change sticker on the windshield on models equipped with the Service Interval Indicator.

The BMW dealer should have only done an oil change at 15K, known as "Oil Service." The car should be due for an "Inspection I" at about 30K, which also involves the replacement of the Cabin and Engine Air Filters.

The Carmax guys must've done the oil change.

BTW, funny how I called up my local BMW dealer and asked about alternatives to the HP Syn 5w-30 and they were clueless. I asked about the BMW LL-01 spec and they didn't know what I was talking about.
shocked.gif


MW
 
I know BMW covers oil changes and other stuff for 4 years or 50K but can they void your warranty if you your own oil changes(providing receipts as proof)?
 
I dont think your warrenty would be voided but if i were you stick to their oil change interval and use their oil filters.
 
I would buy the same BMW filters as they use at your BMW dealer.

I'd also use either BMW oil, or full synthetic with the required BMW approvals

Use the correct oil and filters if you change the oil in the middle of their free oil change interval amd don't reset the oil monitor.

I wonder if another way to get that 'extra margin of safety' might be to just drain the oil [ or use a vacuum pickup through the dipstick ] and replace a few quarts with BMW oil?

I'm sure the BMW oil monitor system will work well as long as the dealer uses the right BMW specc'ed oil.

Since I think I drive the engines harder than many people, I might want more frequent oil changes than BMW provides.

If I used the exact same oil and filter as BMW, and let BMW do a normal oil change when the monitor indicated than I think that BMW will not have any excuse to wiggle out of my warranty and I'd have extra protection with fresh oil.

Why risk the warranty on a great and expensive vehicle?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Audi Junkie:
It will at least keep the costs down...

I understand what youre saying
smile.gif


...but if youre driving a BMW, you shouldnt have to worry about keeping the costs down...

Thats a good idea, but Id likely substitute rotella syn 5w-40 for an HDEO 15w-40.

JMH
 
quote:

Originally posted by Alan:
I know BMW covers oil changes and other stuff for 4 years or 50K but can they void your warranty if you your own oil changes(providing receipts as proof)?

Well, I, at least, will answer the question you actually asked...
pat.gif


YES

Let me explain...
The Magnusson Moss Act provides, amongst other things, that manufacturers cannot void your warranty for failure to use mandated brands of consumables, or failure to have mandated services done by approved facilities unless they provide those consumables and perform those facilities for free!

They do, so they can...
 
quote:

Originally posted by Tree Hugger:

quote:

Originally posted by Alan:
I know BMW covers oil changes and other stuff for 4 years or 50K but can they void your warranty if you your own oil changes(providing receipts as proof)?

Well, I, at least, will answer the question you actually asked...
pat.gif


YES

Let me explain...
The Magnusson Moss Act provides, amongst other things, that manufacturers cannot void your warranty for failure to use mandated brands of consumables, or failure to have mandated services done by approved facilities unless they provide those consumables and perform those facilities for free!

They do, so they can...


Darn, we all get bad grades again! Good answer tree hugger.

Maybe the best approach is for Alan to talk to his BMW Service Manager and see if he needs a 7500 mile oil change and pay BMW to do it.

My approach is always conflicted:

' protect the warranty ' versus ' its my car and I think I can take better care of the car '

Not too long ago, I think I really could take better care of the car


Its less clear cut with car companies doing a better job, better oils with target specifications, oil monitoring systems etc.
 
JAJ is right, my experience and others' is that you get more oil out with the topsider. Plus you can clean out the filter housing and get every ounce out of there too.

Shanneba is correct. Be sure to open the cannister before sucking the oil out...it allows the oil from the cannister to drain into the crankcase. This automatically happens in my case because I'm opening the cannister while I'm waiting for the topsider to suck the oil out.

Someone commented about the bmw 5w30 as being blah. A UOA in that section showed some pretty impressive results, even though it is a Group III "Synthetic" (it's not a synthetic).

You can have the best of both worlds protect warranty/take better care of your car by doing the intermediate oil changes. I really would stick with the A3 LL-01 rated oils, but that's just me. A 15w-40 would cause a vanos malfunction in a cold climate, in case anyone's interested, but Quattro Pete was commenting on a hot climate.

As for Michael's comment, my experience is that BMW dealers don't know anything about oil...but that usually doesn't stop them from giving an opinion. One thing is for sure..most modern BMW's require an ACEA A-3 and BMW LL-01 approved oil. However, many BMW dealerships will say M1 5w30 is OK despite the fact that it is significantly thinner than the correct oils, and accordingly doesn't meet either of these qualifications.

Enjoy your car!
 
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