2003-2008 Corolla cold idle rpm

[zorobabel]

I have become accustomed to the fact that my wife's 2004 Corolla idles at ~2000 rpm on cold starts, which is pretty annoying because of noise, slamming the tranny in gear at 2000 rpm and the safety hazard posed by it's tendency to pickup speed then upshift - you really have to be on the brakes at all times. About one month ago, I cold started a friend's 2007 (or 2008) Corolla and while it initially shot to 1800rpm it droped to a relatively pleasant 1500rpm after about 2 seconds. Which got me thinking, is there a problem with my wife's Corolla or is it the generational change (in 2005 they went to DBW)? The primary intent of this thread is to survey the Corolla owners here about their experienced cold start rpms. Please mention model year.
The secondary intent is to address the suspected issue.

 

[GSCJR]

CEL on?

 

[AndyinAL]

Those 1zz-fe engines are known for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold to head when the rubber seal hardens over time. Easy, cheap repair... might even explain your high idle.

 

[zorobabel]

CEL on?

No CEL, unless I unplug the IACV.

 

[zorobabel]

Those 1zz-fe engines are known for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold to head when the rubber seal hardens over time. Easy, cheap repair... might even explain your high idle.

I replaced that gasket as PM about 3 years ago. I used the updated orange gasket.

 

[silversport]

my sister's 2006 starts like that but does kick down a bit after warming...I'd bet you've already done this but clean MAF and intake???...air filter clean???...spark plugs relatively new???...battery at full capacity???...

good luck with yours,

Bill

 

[mattd]

If you find no mechanical issues call the dealer and see if there is s software update available to address this issue.

That being said, just about every Toyota I have seen of that vintage does that.

 

[SatinSilver]

Do the rpms drop down to 1100 or so when putting it into drive or reverse? Our 05 Matrix would have high idle but drop down when putting it in gear so the trans wouldn’t slam. It had drive by wire. Cleaning the throttle body and the idle air control valve should lower the idle so it doesn’t change gears on its own when in drive.

 

[zorobabel]

That being said, just about every Toyota I have seen of that vintage does that.

Thanks for mentioning this.

To answer some other questions:
TB and MAF were cleaned while changing the intake manifold at 165k almost 5 years ago.
Battery was replaced at 189k about 3 years ago.
Air filter was replaced at 187k, plugs at 202k.
Once warmed up and out of gear, it idles at ~700rpm (smack down in middle of the 650-750rpm range mentioned in the manual).
I never cleaned the IACV, not sure it's an issue as warm idle is pretty stable.
LTFT seems about +2.5% at idle.

@SatinSilver This non-dbw car drops the revs to about 1100rpm when cold, right when it slams into gear

Shouldn't a dirty IACV result in less rpm, not more?
Starting the car with the IACV disconnected results in a rough low idle when cold, putting the trans in gear almost makes the engine stumble. Once warmed up things are good, except for the pesky CEL.

 

[zorobabel]

Now that I think about it, it's probably worth it to remove the IACV, disassemble and sabotage it to some degree.

 

[zorobabel]

Cold smoked it this evening, no intake leaks.