Hello, I put some amsoil atf in my transmission and it has been working fine for a couple thousand miles although when its cold i get a small flare on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift. When it warms up it is fine. Do you think going to a thinner fluid like amsoil atl would help with the flares. It only flares when i hold my foot on the accelerator, if i back off a hare before the shift it does not flare.
2002 Honda accord thinner transmission fluid.
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I don't think it would make a difference, those symptoms are typical. If you want to try another fluid for giggles try Maxlife which works well with your transmission
Stick with the Honda brand ATF. It is matched with their friction material.
FWIW, I run the Amsoil synthetic (the energy efficient version) in my wife's 2002 Odyssey. Been in there for about 2 years or so. Seems very smooth. It has about 96k miles on the original transmission.
I just checked it about a month ago, and it looked like new. Probably has 30k miles on it.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/tr.../?code=ATLQT-EA
I just checked it about a month ago, and it looked like new. Probably has 30k miles on it.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/tr.../?code=ATLQT-EA
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I think you will not see and improvement with fluid it is most likely hydraulic pressure problem, of clearance and things getting better/tighter with temp, I have seen this before on Honda's
Changes very picky Honda auto transmission to non oem fluid, complains about shift performance.
Put Honda fluid back in. Curry Acura out of New York sells it online for a very good price.
Put Honda fluid back in. Curry Acura out of New York sells it online for a very good price.
My auto started a few years ago with that same exact symptom until it got so bad that it would disengage between the shifts. I had to manuall drive in second till the fluid warmed up.I believe the seals in the valve body were starting to harden and the valve body gummed up.. I put in a can of sea foam trans tune, I noticed results in one day and the condition has not appeared in six months. Not bad for a 24 year old car.Suggest a fluid change after a while with this product.
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Yesterday I replaced the DW1 to Maxlife ATF with a bottle of Lubegard Red. So far so good. Hopefully it will fit the hard clunk when parked on a incline going into reverse.
Folks, automatic transmissions are built expecting a very specific coefficient of friction from the ATF in them; if the ATF you're pouring into your transmission is either too slippery (clutches will take too long to fully engage), or not slippery enough (clutches will grab hard), then you WILL shorten your transmission life.
While any given ATF may well have a higher quality base oil than the factory ATF, the quality of the oil is far-FAR less of an issue compared to the built in coefficient of friction. Long story short, while you *MAY* get away with an out of spec ATF for a while, you WILL shorten your transmission life.
While any given ATF may well have a higher quality base oil than the factory ATF, the quality of the oil is far-FAR less of an issue compared to the built in coefficient of friction. Long story short, while you *MAY* get away with an out of spec ATF for a while, you WILL shorten your transmission life.
MolaKule
Staff member
Clutch engagement timing and actuator pressures are controlled by valving and solenoids.
Worn oil pumps (lower than normal pressures) or varnished valving can delay shifts and result in less than nominal wet clutch engagement.
You might be suprised how close the COF's are between various transmissions.
Worn oil pumps (lower than normal pressures) or varnished valving can delay shifts and result in less than nominal wet clutch engagement.
You might be suprised how close the COF's are between various transmissions.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Clutch engagement timing and actuator pressures are controlled by valving and solenoids.
Worn oil pumps (lower than normal pressures) or varnished valving can delay shifts and result in less than nominal wet clutch engagement.
You might be suprised how close the COF's are between various transmissions.
Which is why it can take a few years to ruin the tranny with some ATFs, and weeks with others.
Clutch engagement timing and actuator pressures are controlled by valving and solenoids.
Worn oil pumps (lower than normal pressures) or varnished valving can delay shifts and result in less than nominal wet clutch engagement.
You might be suprised how close the COF's are between various transmissions.
Which is why it can take a few years to ruin the tranny with some ATFs, and weeks with others.
Originally Posted By: Shipo
Folks, automatic transmissions are built expecting a very specific coefficient of friction from the ATF in them; if the ATF you're pouring into your transmission is either too slippery (clutches will take too long to fully engage), or not slippery enough (clutches will grab hard), then you WILL shorten your transmission life.
While any given ATF may well have a higher quality base oil than the factory ATF, the quality of the oil is far-FAR less of an issue compared to the built in coefficient of friction. Long story short, while you *MAY* get away with an out of spec ATF for a while, you WILL shorten your transmission life.
Anytime you reduce slipping/delayed engagement in a transmission you will REDUCE heat and REDUCE wear. It is simple physics. All OEMS nowdays try to make an auto trans shift seamlessly and that requires slipping the heck out of the bands and clutches. Put an fluid in with LESS friction modifier and your transmission will LAST LONGER. Think about how long auto transmissions used to last when we had C4's, C6's, Turbo 350/400's etc.. they used a standard fluid with little to almost NO friction modifiers (think type F) and they shifted firm and lasted forever!
Bring on the new age where no one wants to even feel a shift and you suddenly get TONS of failing autos by every manufacturer! 1+1=2!!
Folks, automatic transmissions are built expecting a very specific coefficient of friction from the ATF in them; if the ATF you're pouring into your transmission is either too slippery (clutches will take too long to fully engage), or not slippery enough (clutches will grab hard), then you WILL shorten your transmission life.
While any given ATF may well have a higher quality base oil than the factory ATF, the quality of the oil is far-FAR less of an issue compared to the built in coefficient of friction. Long story short, while you *MAY* get away with an out of spec ATF for a while, you WILL shorten your transmission life.
Anytime you reduce slipping/delayed engagement in a transmission you will REDUCE heat and REDUCE wear. It is simple physics. All OEMS nowdays try to make an auto trans shift seamlessly and that requires slipping the heck out of the bands and clutches. Put an fluid in with LESS friction modifier and your transmission will LAST LONGER. Think about how long auto transmissions used to last when we had C4's, C6's, Turbo 350/400's etc.. they used a standard fluid with little to almost NO friction modifiers (think type F) and they shifted firm and lasted forever!
Bring on the new age where no one wants to even feel a shift and you suddenly get TONS of failing autos by every manufacturer! 1+1=2!!
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My old GM automatics from 30 to 40 years ago always had slow and mushy shifts, and none of mine ever failed. Original transmission would still be going strong after 1 or 2 engine rebuilds. Probably because I never did any heavy towing/hauling.
I think we've seen more transmission failures recently due to the complexity of newer transmissions, higher engine outputs, and with FWD especially, both of the above combined with tighter transaxle packaging.
I think we've seen more transmission failures recently due to the complexity of newer transmissions, higher engine outputs, and with FWD especially, both of the above combined with tighter transaxle packaging.
I had a flare on my 99 Accord 2.3(same generation as the 02) after the dealer changed the rear main seal. This was the 1st-2nd gear change. They did a drain and fill and problemo solved. Sold it about 100k miles later....no issues.
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
...Anytime you reduce slipping/delayed engagement in a transmission you will REDUCE heat and REDUCE wear. It is simple physics. All OEMS nowdays try to make an auto trans shift seamlessly and that requires slipping the heck out of the bands and clutches. Put an fluid in with LESS friction modifier and your transmission will LAST LONGER. Think about how long auto transmissions used to last when we had C4's, C6's, Turbo 350/400's etc.. they used a standard fluid with little to almost NO friction modifiers (think type F) and they shifted firm and lasted forever!
Bring on the new age where no one wants to even feel a shift and you suddenly get TONS of failing autos by every manufacturer! 1+1=2!!
Here is the main reason for type F fluids in passenger car and light truck transmissions and the issue is a bit more complex than making a broad statement:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3410774/Type_%22F%22_ATF#Post3410774
You have to consider:
1. Number of clutches in clutch pack,
2. Diameter of clutches in clutch pack,
3. Actuator pressures,
4. Actuator timing (clutch pack engagement/disengagement timing),
5. Driveline shock,
6. Cooling capacity of fluid volume.
...Anytime you reduce slipping/delayed engagement in a transmission you will REDUCE heat and REDUCE wear. It is simple physics. All OEMS nowdays try to make an auto trans shift seamlessly and that requires slipping the heck out of the bands and clutches. Put an fluid in with LESS friction modifier and your transmission will LAST LONGER. Think about how long auto transmissions used to last when we had C4's, C6's, Turbo 350/400's etc.. they used a standard fluid with little to almost NO friction modifiers (think type F) and they shifted firm and lasted forever!
Bring on the new age where no one wants to even feel a shift and you suddenly get TONS of failing autos by every manufacturer! 1+1=2!!
Here is the main reason for type F fluids in passenger car and light truck transmissions and the issue is a bit more complex than making a broad statement:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3410774/Type_%22F%22_ATF#Post3410774
You have to consider:
1. Number of clutches in clutch pack,
2. Diameter of clutches in clutch pack,
3. Actuator pressures,
4. Actuator timing (clutch pack engagement/disengagement timing),
5. Driveline shock,
6. Cooling capacity of fluid volume.
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Originally Posted By: Lubener
My auto started a few years ago with that same exact symptom until it got so bad that it would disengage between the shifts. I had to manuall drive in second till the fluid warmed up.I believe the seals in the valve body were starting to harden and the valve body gummed up.. I put in a can of sea foam trans tune, I noticed results in one day and the condition has not appeared in six months. Not bad for a 24 year old car.Suggest a fluid change after a while with this product.
I decided to try some seafoam transtune even though it made me nervous to be putting it in. I only drove the car when the trans was moderately warm but within a few miles it was like someone put in a new transmission. The flaring was completely gone on the 2-3 3-4 shift,the torque converter lockup is not noticeable anymore. Just the up and down shifting is so much quicker and almost not noticable. I have not driven the car when its cold yet but I will report back on whether its fixed or still flares. I'll change the fluid probably in a couple hundred miles.
My auto started a few years ago with that same exact symptom until it got so bad that it would disengage between the shifts. I had to manuall drive in second till the fluid warmed up.I believe the seals in the valve body were starting to harden and the valve body gummed up.. I put in a can of sea foam trans tune, I noticed results in one day and the condition has not appeared in six months. Not bad for a 24 year old car.Suggest a fluid change after a while with this product.
I decided to try some seafoam transtune even though it made me nervous to be putting it in. I only drove the car when the trans was moderately warm but within a few miles it was like someone put in a new transmission. The flaring was completely gone on the 2-3 3-4 shift,the torque converter lockup is not noticeable anymore. Just the up and down shifting is so much quicker and almost not noticable. I have not driven the car when its cold yet but I will report back on whether its fixed or still flares. I'll change the fluid probably in a couple hundred miles.
Originally Posted By: joegreen
Originally Posted By: Lubener
My auto started a few years ago with that same exact symptom until it got so bad that it would disengage between the shifts. I had to manuall drive in second till the fluid warmed up.I believe the seals in the valve body were starting to harden and the valve body gummed up.. I put in a can of sea foam trans tune, I noticed results in one day and the condition has not appeared in six months. Not bad for a 24 year old car.Suggest a fluid change after a while with this product.
I decided to try some seafoam transtune even though it made me nervous to be putting it in. I only drove the car when the trans was moderately warm but within a few miles it was like someone put in a new transmission. The flaring was completely gone on the 2-3 3-4 shift,the torque converter lockup is not noticeable anymore. Just the up and down shifting is so much quicker and almost not noticable. I have not driven the car when its cold yet but I will report back on whether its fixed or still flares. I'll change the fluid probably in a couple hundred miles.
I was a little reluctant to add Trans Tune to my Honda, too; so, I added only 4 oz. Drove roughly 200 miles over 7 days (this allowed for overnight soaking for cleaning purposes) and shifting became less clunky and obnoxious. Then, I did a 6qt cooler line fluid exchange of Valvoline Maxlife. Drove for a week (Just wanted to see how straight ATF shifted). Added about 2 1/2 oz more of Trans Tune for more cleaning and I plan on driving for another 2 months. Then, another 6 qt cooler line fluid exchange before the summer; will add 6oz of Lubegard Red at this time for the summer heat. Also, a Magnefine inline filter will be added at this time, too. I wanted to clean things up before adding the filter, and that's why I choose Trans Tune.
Overall, I am pleased with Trans Tune for my application. It seems to rid the Honda transmission of its clunkiness (is that a word?). Also, I know it's cleaning the solenoids, valve bodies, etc... While I am pleased with Lubegard Red, Trans Tune seems to clean better and smooth out operation more. With that said, I'll have to see if Trans Tune has lasting effects or just short term improvements.
Originally Posted By: Lubener
My auto started a few years ago with that same exact symptom until it got so bad that it would disengage between the shifts. I had to manuall drive in second till the fluid warmed up.I believe the seals in the valve body were starting to harden and the valve body gummed up.. I put in a can of sea foam trans tune, I noticed results in one day and the condition has not appeared in six months. Not bad for a 24 year old car.Suggest a fluid change after a while with this product.
I decided to try some seafoam transtune even though it made me nervous to be putting it in. I only drove the car when the trans was moderately warm but within a few miles it was like someone put in a new transmission. The flaring was completely gone on the 2-3 3-4 shift,the torque converter lockup is not noticeable anymore. Just the up and down shifting is so much quicker and almost not noticable. I have not driven the car when its cold yet but I will report back on whether its fixed or still flares. I'll change the fluid probably in a couple hundred miles.
I was a little reluctant to add Trans Tune to my Honda, too; so, I added only 4 oz. Drove roughly 200 miles over 7 days (this allowed for overnight soaking for cleaning purposes) and shifting became less clunky and obnoxious. Then, I did a 6qt cooler line fluid exchange of Valvoline Maxlife. Drove for a week (Just wanted to see how straight ATF shifted). Added about 2 1/2 oz more of Trans Tune for more cleaning and I plan on driving for another 2 months. Then, another 6 qt cooler line fluid exchange before the summer; will add 6oz of Lubegard Red at this time for the summer heat. Also, a Magnefine inline filter will be added at this time, too. I wanted to clean things up before adding the filter, and that's why I choose Trans Tune.
Overall, I am pleased with Trans Tune for my application. It seems to rid the Honda transmission of its clunkiness (is that a word?). Also, I know it's cleaning the solenoids, valve bodies, etc... While I am pleased with Lubegard Red, Trans Tune seems to clean better and smooth out operation more. With that said, I'll have to see if Trans Tune has lasting effects or just short term improvements.
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